Hualien

Hualien County (花蓮縣) is Taiwan's largest county by area, a long, narrow band of the island's eastern flank squeezed between the towering Central Mountain Range and the Pacific Ocean. It is a landscape of extremes: marble gorges, 3,000-metre peaks, rift valley farmland and a rugged, surf-pounded coast. With a relatively small population and limited development, Hualien is widely considered the most scenic and most relaxed part of Taiwan — the antidote to the dense, fast-moving west coast.

The county's centrepiece is Taroko Gorge, the spectacular marble canyon protected within Taroko National Park, which draws visitors from across the world. But Hualien is more than its gorge. The East Rift Valley unrolls south from Hualien City, a corridor of rice paddies, tea plantations, hot springs and indigenous townships hemmed by mountains on both sides. Hualien also has Taiwan's largest indigenous population — predominantly Amis, alongside Truku, Bunun and others — and their culture, food and crafts give the region a distinct identity.

For travellers, Hualien is about nature and pace. It is a place to hike marble canyons, raft a wild river, soak in hot springs, cycle through farmland, watch whales offshore and eat exceptionally fresh produce and seafood. Hualien City, a pleasant town of around 100,000, serves as the comfortable base from which most of this is reached.

The best months are autumn (October–November) and spring (March–April), when the weather is mild, skies are often clear and rainfall is lower. Winter (December–February) is cool but generally bearable at low elevations, while the high mountains can see snow. Summer (June–September) is hot, humid and the peak of typhoon season — typhoons and heavy rain can close gorge trails and cancel rafting, so build flexibility into summer plans.

A Hualien quirk: the gorge often enjoys clear, blue skies even when it is raining down in Hualien City, thanks to its mountain microclimate. Note also that earthquakes are a real factor here — a major quake in 2024 closed many Taroko trails — so always check current trail and road status before travelling. Festival-wise, indigenous Amis harvest festivals (ilisin) animate the townships in summer, and the International Stone Sculpture Festival is held periodically in Hualien City.

Hualien County is long, and public transport is limited outside the main rail corridor — renting a car or scooter is the recommended way to explore freely. The Taiwan Railways (TRA) line is the spine: it runs the full length of the county from Xincheng (the Taroko gateway) through Hualien City and down the East Rift Valley via Ji'an, Ruisui, and Yuli toward Taitung. Trains are frequent, cheap and reliable; express services connect Hualien City with Taipei in about 2 hours.

For Taroko Gorge, shuttle buses and regular Hualien Bus / Taroko Bus routes run from Hualien TRA Station and Xincheng Station into the gorge, with one- and two-day passes available. Provincial Highway 9 (the inland route) and the scenic coastal Highway 11 are the two great driving roads. Within Hualien City the centre is walkable; taxis fill gaps for trips outside town. Scooter and bicycle rentals cluster around Hualien Station and the airport — note that some operators require a local or international licence.

• Hualien City — The county's amiable capital and the natural base for exploring; night markets, beaches and easy access to Taroko.
• Taroko Gorge — Taiwan's signature natural wonder: a deep marble canyon laced with hiking trails.
• Taroko National Park — The wider protected park, rising from coastal cliffs to alpine peaks over 3,400 m.
• Liushidan Mountain — Famous for its summer carpet of orange tiger lilies blanketing the hillsides.
• Ruisui — A rural township renowned for hot springs, dairy ranches and Xiuguluan River rafting.
• Yuli — A farming township and gateway to the Walami Trail and the Yushan National Park backcountry.
• Qixingtan Beach — A crescent of pebble shore north of the city, prized for ocean views and sunrises.
• Hualien Sugar Factory — A repurposed Japanese-era sugar mill with heritage dorms, ice cream and rural charm.

Hualien's food is shaped by clean water, fertile valley farmland, Pacific seafood and a strong indigenous Amis influence. Signature local dishes include zhutongfan (竹筒飯), rice steamed inside a bamboo tube — an Amis speciality; mochi (麻糬, locally muaji), glutinous rice cakes filled with peanut, sesame or bean paste, sold as a famous souvenir; and Hualien wontons (扁食), renowned across Taiwan. The county is also known for fresh dairy from valley ranches, scallion-rich produce and abundant seafood along the coast.

The must-visit eating spot is Dongdamen Night Market in Hualien City, a sprawling market whose back lane is dedicated to indigenous Amis vendors with live music on weekends. The rift-valley townships have their own night markets — Ruisui's on Tuesdays, Yuli's on Fridays — and Yuli is known for Yuli noodles. Vegetarian food is easy to find in Taiwan; look for the "素" sign. Seafood lovers should head to Qixingtan and the coastal villages.

Hualien's defining cultural feature is its large indigenous population. The Amis Harvest Festival (ilisin) is the year's most important indigenous celebration, held in townships across the county in July and August, with communal dancing, singing and ceremony — visitors are sometimes welcome to watch respectfully. Truku and Bunun communities around Taroko maintain their own traditions, including weaving and song.

In Hualien City, the International Stone Sculpture Festival showcases stone-carving artists from around the world — fitting for a region built on marble and once a centre of the ancient jade trade. Local crafts to look for include hand-woven cloth in aboriginal designs, jade and stone carvings, and woodwork. The county also hosts coastal arts and music events along Highway 11.

• Hiking Taroko Gorge — Walk marble narrows, suspended cliff trails and waterfall paths in the world's deepest marble canyon (always check trail closures first).
• Whitewater rafting the Xiuguluan River — A classic Hualien adventure from Ruisui, descending a wild river through the rift valley to the coast.
• The East Rift Valley scenic route — Drive or cycle Highway 9 through rice paddies, tea hills and hot-spring towns from Hualien City to Yuli.
• Liushidan Mountain tiger lilies — Visit in August–September when the slopes blaze orange with daylily blooms.
• Whale and dolphin watching — Boat trips depart the Hualien coast in the warmer months for sightings of dolphins and occasionally whales.
• Soaking in Ruisui and Antong hot springs — Unwind in the county's mineral-rich rift-valley hot springs after a day outdoors.