Juguang

Juguang (莒光) is the southernmost township of Lienchiang County — the Taiwanese-administered Matsu Islands, scattered just off the coast of mainland China's Fujian Province. It is made up principally of two small islands, Dongju (East Ju) and Xiju (West Ju), historically known together as the Baiquan Islands and renamed Juguang in 1956 in a Cold War flourish meaning "glory of Ju", a reference to a famous comeback in Chinese history. Far quieter and less visited than the county seat of Nangan, Juguang rewards travellers who make the effort with granite-built fishing villages, a working lighthouse, sweeping coastal trails and a slow, weather-bound rhythm of island life.

The two islands feel distinct. Dongju is the better known, home to the historic Dongquan (Dongju) Lighthouse and the restored stone village of Dapu; Xiju is smaller, with quiet harbours, military relics and the Qingfan settlement. A short ferry hop links the two. Throughout, the architecture is the signature eastern-Fujian style of the Matsu Islands — chunky granite-block houses with tiled roofs weighted against typhoon winds — and the population is small, ageing and largely engaged in fishing.

The climate is subtropical but distinctly maritime, cooler and far windier than mainland Taiwan. Spring (March to May) brings heavy sea fog that can ground flights and ferries for days at a stretch — atmospheric, but a real risk if your schedule is tight. Summer (June to September) is warm and the most reliable season for transport, though typhoons can pass through. Autumn is pleasant and clear. Winter is cold, grey and very windy, with many guesthouses and eateries closed; in the warmer months the surrounding waters can glow at night with bioluminescent algae, locally called the "blue tears".

By Car / Road

Juguang is reached by ferry. Passenger boats run from Nangan (the Fu'ao harbour area) to both Dongju and Xiju; the crossing takes roughly an hour and sailings are limited to a few per day, so check the timetable before committing. Services are frequently cancelled in fog or rough seas. A separate short ferry shuttles between Dongju and Xiju.

Both islands are small and the most practical way to explore is on foot, with coastal paths and village lanes linking the main sights. Distances are walkable but hilly. Renting a scooter is the local norm for covering more ground quickly; a handful of guesthouses and shops can arrange one, and an international or Taiwanese licence is needed. Taxis are scarce and informal — ask your accommodation to arrange a pick-up rather than expecting to flag one. There is no metro, bus network or ride-hailing app. The main thing to watch is the weather and ferry schedule rather than any scam: plan a buffer day in case sailings are suspended.

• Dongquan (Dongju) Lighthouse (東犬燈塔 / 東莒燈塔) — A whitewashed granite lighthouse on the eastern headland of Dongju, built by the British in the 1870s to guide ships into the Min River estuary. It is Juguang's signature landmark, surrounded by open grassland and dramatic sea views. Open daytime hours; no ticket. Eastern Dongju.

• Dapu Stone Village (大埔聚落) — A beautifully restored cluster of eastern-Fujian granite houses on the south of Dongju, once an abandoned fishing hamlet and now revived as a heritage village with a handful of guesthouses and cafés. Free to wander.

• Dapu Stone Inscription (大埔石刻) — A Ming-dynasty rock inscription near Dapu commemorating a 17th-century anti-pirate campaign, sheltered within a small pavilion. Free.

• Fuzheng & Dapu beaches (福正沙灘 / 大埔澳口) — Sandy coves on Dongju good for a quiet walk; in season these are spots to watch for the "blue tears" bioluminescence after dark.

• Qingfan Village (青帆村) — The main settlement on Xiju, a tiered fishing harbour with old shops and military-era buildings climbing the hillside.

• Military tunnels and coastal fortifications — Both islands retain Cold War-era bunkers, tunnels and gun positions cut into the granite; some are open to walk through. Free.

• Walk the coastal trails of Dongju between the lighthouse, Fuzheng and Dapu for the island's best scenery.

• Take the short ferry across to Xiju to explore Qingfan harbour and its quieter lanes — an easy half-day.

• Join a night-time "blue tears" outing in late spring and summer to watch the bioluminescent algae light up the surf; some guesthouses run informal trips.

• Stay overnight in a restored stone house at Dapu for the full slow-island experience — stargazing here is excellent thanks to minimal light pollution.

• Photograph the eastern-Fujian granite architecture and the lighthouse at dawn or dusk.

Food on Juguang is simple, seafood-driven and tied to whatever the boats bring in, so menus change daily and choice is limited — most visitors eat at their guesthouse or one of a few small eateries. Matsu signatures worth trying include "old wine" noodles (laojiu mianxian), red-yeast pork, fishball soup and the flaky savoury pastry called "Matsu burger" (jiguang bing).

• Guesthouse meals, Dapu (Dongju) — Several restored-stone-house guesthouses serve set home-style dinners of fresh fish, soup and vegetables; usually book ahead. Mid-range.
• Small eateries, Qingfan (Xiju) — A handful of family-run shops near the harbour do noodles, rice dishes and seafood at modest prices. Budget.

The local drink to know is Matsu "old wine" (laojiu), an amber rice wine central to island cooking and often offered to guests; the related Tunnel 88 sorghum spirit is distilled in the county. Soft options are limited to bottled drinks, tea and instant coffee from village shops, with a couple of small cafés in Dapu serving proper coffee in season. Nightlife is essentially nonexistent — evenings are for stars and quiet. Tap water should not be relied upon for drinking; stick to bottled or boiled water.

• Budget — Simple guesthouses (minsu) in Qingfan on Xiju and around Dongju offer basic rooms from roughly NT$800–1,500 per night, often with breakfast.
• Mid-range — The restored eastern-Fujian stone houses of Dapu Stone Village on Dongju operate as characterful minsu, typically NT$1,800–3,000 per night including a home-cooked dinner; these are the most atmospheric stays on the island and should be booked well ahead.

Juguang is not a shopping destination. The most worthwhile purchases are local food products — dried seafood, fish-based snacks and the Matsu specialty of "old wine" (laojiu) rice wine and red-yeast (hongzao) condiments, usually bought from small village shops or directly from producers. A few guesthouse-run cafés in Dapu sell simple crafts and postcards. There is no bargaining culture; prices are fixed and modest. Stock up on cash and any essentials on Nangan before crossing, as island shops are tiny and ATMs limited.

• Nangan — About 1 hour by ferry; the county seat of Matsu, with the Beihai Tunnel, Tunnel 88 distillery and onward flights to Taipei.
• Beigan — Roughly 1.5–2 hours via Nangan; known for the photogenic Qinbi stone village and Tangqi old street.
• Dongyin — A few hours by ferry via Nangan; the northernmost, most rugged Matsu island, with cliffs and a dramatic lighthouse.
• Xiju / Dongju — Whichever of the two Juguang islands you have not yet seen is a short ferry hop and an easy half-day.
• Taipei — About 1 hour by air from Nangan; the gateway back to mainland Taiwan.