Beigan

Beigan (北竿) is the second-largest island of the Matsu archipelago, part of Taiwan's Lienchiang County, lying just north of the main island of Nangan. Smaller and quieter than Nangan, Beigan is for many visitors the most beautiful of the Matsu islands, thanks above all to Qinbi — a hillside village of grey granite houses tumbling down toward the sea, widely regarded as the finest surviving example of traditional Fujian architecture in the archipelago.

Beigan's character is that of a peaceful island of stone villages, harbour temples, sandy bays and the inescapable traces of military history. Like the rest of Matsu it lies close to mainland China and spent decades as a front-line garrison, leaving behind the Beihai Tunnel, hilltop strongpoints and war memorials, several of which have been reborn as visitor attractions. The island is small enough to tour in a day yet rich enough to reward an overnight stay, particularly for those hoping to catch the bioluminescent "blue tears" offshore.

Matsu's climate is humid subtropical but changeable. The best months are roughly April to June and the autumn; spring brings the blue-tear bioluminescence but also thick sea fog that can disrupt flights, so allow buffer time. Summer is warm with a typhoon risk, and winter is cool and windy.

By Plane

Beigan Airport (馬祖北竿機場) handles flights operated by Uni Air between Beigan and Songshan Airport in Taipei — historically around three flights a day from Beigan, with tickets approximately NT$2,000. The airport is small and the island compact, so onward transfer to the villages is quick. Flights are weather-dependent and prone to fog delays in spring.

The most practical way to get around Beigan is by rented scooter; the Beigan Visitor Center (北竿遊客中心) can advise on rentals and routes. The island is small, with narrow, twisting roads, and the villages are walkable once you arrive. Taxis are limited and public buses few. There are no notable scams; as elsewhere in Matsu, avoid photographing military installations.

Culture and history

• Beihai Tunnel (北海坑道) — A granite-cut tunnel created in 1968 for amphibious landing craft, built over roughly three years at the cost of more than 100 soldiers' lives; now renovated with access road and railings. Generally open around 08:30–17:00.
• War and Peace Memorial Park Exhibition Center (戰爭和平紀念公園主題館) — Set on the site of a former Chinese Civil War stronghold, with displays on Matsu under military rule — its origins, chronology of military events and military-civilian life. Open roughly 08:30–17:30.

Temples

• Qinbi Tianhou Temple (芹壁天后宮) — A temple to Tianhou (Mazu), goddess of seafarers, in the famous Qinbi village.
• Baima Zunwang Temple (白馬尊王廟) — A small free-standing temple, the name meaning "White Horse King".
• Shuibu Shangshugong Temple (水部尚書公府) — A larger temple located close to the airport.
• Pingshui Zunwang Temple (平水尊王廟) — A larger temple near Baisha Harbour.
• Nushuai Temple (女帥宮) — A small brown stone temple.

Nature

• Turtle Island (龜島) — A granite islet rising from the sea off Qinbi; its cracked surface gives it the look of a giant resting turtle.

Wandering Qinbi Village is the defining Beigan experience — a slow exploration of its stepped stone lanes and granite houses, with Turtle Island framed offshore. Touring the Beihai Tunnel and the War and Peace Memorial Park brings the island's Cold War history to life. In spring and early summer, watching for the bioluminescent "blue tears" along the coast at night is a highlight. For a day excursion, Daqiu Island (大坵島) is reachable by ferry in peak season (and by chartered boat off-season); now uninhabited, it is known for its population of Formosan sika deer. The island's beaches and viewpoints make for relaxed walks.

Beigan's food is Fujian island cooking centred on the sea — expect fresh seafood, fish noodles and fish dumplings, red yeast rice dishes and the sesame flatbread jiguang bing. Dining is in small village restaurants and guesthouse kitchens.

• Village eateries (Qinbi and the main villages) — Casual local restaurants serving seafood and noodle dishes, mostly budget to mid-range (roughly NT$100–400 per person).
• Guesthouse and homestay meals — Several homestays serve home-style island meals to guests.

Vegetarian choice is limited on this seafood-focused island, so ask in advance; halal and strictly gluten-free dining cannot be relied upon.

Matsu's kaoliang liquor and strong rice wines are the local drinks, sold in village shops. A few cafés in and around Qinbi serve coffee and tea, and the usual Taiwanese soft drinks are available. Tap water on Beigan is treated but is generally boiled or filtered before drinking; bottled water is widely available.

• Budget: Family-run minsu in the villages offer basic rooms from roughly NT$800–1,500.
• Mid-range: Guesthouses and small hotels around the main villages and the harbour offer comfortable rooms with breakfast for roughly NT$1,800–3,000.
• Upscale / heritage: The standout stay is Qinbi Mediterranean Hostel (芹壁地中海民宿), set in old stone houses on the Qinbi hillside overlooking the sea — atmospheric heritage-style lodging; other restored stone-house homestays operate in Qinbi as well.

Shopping on Beigan is low-key. Village shops sell Matsu's famous kaoliang sorghum liquor and rice wine, the sesame flatbread jiguang bing, dried seafood and simple souvenirs. Prices are generally fixed; bargaining is not customary. For a wider range, Nangan has more shops.

• Nangan — A short ferry from Baisha Harbour; the main Matsu island, with the Beihai Tunnel, Mazu statue and Matsu Distillery.
• Dongyin — Reached by ferry via Nangan; the rugged northernmost Matsu island, with the Dongyong Lighthouse.
• Juguang (Dongju and Xiju) — Ferry via Nangan; quiet southern islands with old stone villages and lighthouses.
• Daqiu Island — A short seasonal ferry from Beigan; an uninhabited islet roamed by Formosan sika deer.
• Qinbi Village — On Beigan itself; the archipelago's finest cluster of traditional granite houses.
• Keelung — On the Taiwan main island, linked to Matsu by the long ferry route via Nangan.