Artemisa

Artemisa is a western Cuban province established on January 1, 2011, following the administrative division of the former La Habana Province. Covering 4,004 square kilometers between the Gulf of Mexico to the north and the Gulf of Batabanó to the south, the province borders Havana to the east and Pinar del Río to the west. Its terrain transitions from flat, fertile agricultural plains in the south and central regions to the forested peaks of the Sierra del Rosario mountain range in the northwest.

Travelers visit Artemisa primarily for the Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve, which contains two prominent eco-tourism destinations: the botanical gardens and waterfalls of Soroa, and the terraced eco-village of Las Terrazas. Beyond the mountains, the province contains the 19th-century ruins of Cafetal Angerona and Cafetal Buenavista, the satirical cartoon culture and international film school in San Antonio de los Baños, and the deepwater industrial port of Mariel.

The province experiences a tropical savanna climate (Köppen Aw) with a distinct dry winter season and a hot, rainy summer. Average annual temperatures range from 24°C to 28°C (75°F–82°F), with the mountainous northwest experiencing cooler nighttime temperatures and higher rainfall than the southern coastal plains.

November through April is the dry season and the best period to visit Artemisa. During these months, daytime temperatures range from 22°C to 27°C (72°F–81°F) with low humidity and minimal rainfall, providing dry conditions for hiking mountain trails and touring coffee plantation ruins. Peak flowering at the Soroa Orchidarium occurs between December and March.

May through October brings high heat, heavy humidity, and frequent afternoon downpours, with daytime temperatures between 30°C and 34°C (86°F–93°F). The Atlantic hurricane season runs from June through November, with peak storm activity in September and October. Travelers visiting during summer should plan outdoor hikes for early morning hours before temperatures peak and rain begins.

• By Bus: Viazul runs air-conditioned daily long-distance coaches along the Havana–Viñales route, stopping at Rancho Curujey in Las Terrazas (Autopista Nacional km 51). Buses depart Havana's Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales at 08:30 and 14:00, taking 1 hour to Las Terrazas and costing $6–$8 USD (payable online or by international card). From Las Terrazas, local taxis connect to Soroa (20 km) for $10–$15 USD. Domestic bus operator Ómnibus Nacionales runs daily interprovincial services from Havana to Artemisa city, San Cristóbal, and Bahía Honda for 30 to 80 CUP ($0.25–$0.65 USD), though seating priority is reserved for Cuban citizens.
• By Train: Unión de Ferrocarriles de Cuba (UFC) operates limited daily passenger trains connecting Havana's 19 de Noviembre (Tulipán) station with Artemisa city and San Antonio de los Baños. The 60 km rail journey takes 2 to 2.5 hours and costs 5 to 15 CUP ($0.05–$0.15 USD). Rail service consists of unreserved, non-air-conditioned standard class cars; departures are infrequent and subject to delays.
• By Car: The eight-lane Autopista Nacional (A4) runs west from Havana across northern Artemisa towards Pinar del Río. Las Terrazas is reached via the signed km 51 exit (72 km from Havana, 50 minutes drive); Soroa is reached via the Candelaria exit at km 76 (85 km, 1 hour 15 minutes drive). The two-lane Carretera Central (Route 2) connects Havana to Artemisa city through Bauta and Guanajay (60 km, 1 hour 15 minutes). The Autopista Habana-Mariel (Route 1) runs along the north coast to Mariel port (45 km, 40 minutes).
• By Air: No commercial passenger air service exists within Artemisa province. The nearest international gateway is José Martí International Airport (HAV) in Havana, situated 45 km northeast of Artemisa city (45 to 60 minutes by car). HAV handles scheduled flights from North America, Latin America, and Europe via airlines including American Airlines, Copa Airlines, Iberia, Air France, and Cubana de Aviación.
• Getting Around: Shared collective taxis (máquinas or almendrones) run fixed routes along the Carretera Central between towns like Artemisa, Guanajay, and Bauta for 100 to 250 CUP ($0.80–$2.00 USD) per seat. In municipal centers, horse-drawn carts (coches de caballos) and bicycle taxis (bicitaxis) cover short trips for 20 to 50 CUP ($0.15–$0.40 USD). Reaching mountain trailheads, ruins, and waterfalls requires a hired private taxi (typically $40–$70 USD for a full-day excursion from Soroa or Las Terrazas). App-based ride-hailing services do not operate in Cuba; transport arrangements are made in cash on the street or through guesthouse hosts.

• Orquideario de Soroa: A 35,000-square-meter botanical hillside garden founded in 1943, containing more than 20,000 orchid plants representing over 700 species alongside ferns and tropical palms. Open daily 08:30–16:30. Entry fee: 150 CUP / $3.00 USD.
• Salto de Soroa (Salto del Arco Iris): A 22-meter waterfall on the Manantiales River, featuring a natural freshwater pool for swimming. Open daily 08:30–16:30. Entry fee: 150 CUP / $3.00 USD.
• Las Terrazas Eco-Community: A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve model village surrounding Lake San Juan, featuring whitewashed terraced houses, open craft workshops, and the home-museum of musician Polo Montañez. Open daily. General park reserve entry fee: $10.00 USD.
• Cafetal Buenavista: A restored 1801 coffee plantation built by French refugees from Saint-Domingue, featuring stone drying terraces (secaderos), a large stone bean grinder (tahona), and a hilltop manor house overlooking the valley. Open daily 09:00–17:00. Entry fee: $2.00 USD.
• Baños del San Juan: Natural stepped limestone cascades and mineral river pools along the San Juan River inside the Las Terrazas reserve, equipped with shaded picnic platforms and rustic changing stalls. Open daily 09:00–17:00. Entry fee: $10.00 USD (includes a $7 food and beverage voucher).
• Mausoleo a los Mártires de Artemisa: A monument and museum complex on Avenida 28 de Enero in Artemisa city commemorating the 28 local youths who took part in the 1953 Moncada Barracks attack. Open Tuesday through Sunday 08:00–16:00. Entry fee: 50 CUP ($0.40 USD).
• Museo del Humor: Located in San Antonio de los Baños inside an 1823 neoclassical mansion, this museum showcases satirical cartoons, caricatures, and graphic humor from Cuban and international artists. Open Tuesday through Saturday 09:00–17:00, Sunday 09:00–13:00. Entry fee: 50 CUP ($0.40 USD).
• Ruinas del Cafetal Angerona: The stone remnants of an early 19th-century coffee plantation near Artemisa city, founded by German planter Cornelio Souchay, containing ruined slave barracks, an aqueduct, and the neoclassical manor gate. Open daily during daylight hours. Free entry.

• Ride the Canopy Tour in Las Terrazas: Glide along an aerial zip-line course spanning 1.6 km across four cable segments that cross the village canopy and Lake San Juan. Cost: $15.00–$20.00 USD per person.
• Hike to Mirador de Venus and Loma del Taburete: Trek through the forests of the Sierra del Rosario up to 450-meter ridge viewpoints that offer panoramas of both the Gulf of Mexico and the southern plains. Guided hikes from Villa Soroa or Rancho Curujey cost $10.00–$15.00 USD.
• Birdwatch in the Sierra del Rosario: Spot endemic Cuban bird species along forest trails, including the Cuban trogon (tocororo), the Cuban tody (cartacuba), and the bee hummingbird (zunzuncito). Guided excursions cost $15.00–$25.00 USD.
• Swim in Natural Forest Pools: Bathe in the clear mountain cascades at Baños del San Juan or the quieter Baños del Bayate along the Río Bayate in Las Terrazas. Entry fee: Free to $10.00 USD depending on location.
• Visit San Antonio de los Baños Art Studios: Tour local printmaking studios, paper-craft workshops (Taller de Papel), and cartoon exhibits in the hometown of songwriter Silvio Rodríguez.

• El Romero (Las Terrazas Eco-Community): Organic vegetarian restaurant serving dishes prepared with produce grown in surrounding bio-gardens, including fresh herb salads, vegetable tempura, and homemade sourdough bread. Price: Mid-range ($10–$18 USD).
• Restaurante Cafetal Buenavista (Buenavista Hill, Las Terrazas): Dining on the terrace of a restored 19th-century coffee manor, serving roast pork, ropa vieja, black bean congrí, and locally grown mountain coffee. Price: Mid-range ($12–$22 USD).
• Paladar El Campesino (Carretera a Soroa km 4, Soroa): Family-run rural paladar with garden seating, known for charcoal-roasted pork, grilled chicken, fried plantain chips (chatinos), and guava juices. Price: Budget/Mid-range ($7–$14 USD).
• Restaurante Castillo de las Nubes (Loma El Fuerte, Soroa): Hilltop restaurant set in a stone villa serving grilled meats, fish, and cocktails with views over the Sierra del Rosario valley. Price: Mid-range ($12–$20 USD).
• Pizzería La Fontana / Peso Pizza (Corner of Calle 31 and Calle 54, Artemisa city): Casual provincial eatery serving Cuban cheese and ham pizzas, spaghetti plates, and tropical fruit batidos (milkshakes). Price: Budget (150–350 CUP / $1.20–$2.80 USD).

• Budget:
  • Casa Hospedaje Doña Rosa (Soroa): Private homestay (casa particular) offering air-conditioned guest rooms with private bathrooms, garden patios, and homemade breakfasts. Nightly rate: 3,000 to 5,500 CUP ($25–$45 USD).
  • Villa Irene y Pepe (Soroa): Countryside casa particular with a terrace overlooking fruit trees, en-suite rooms, and home-cooked dinners. Nightly rate: 3,000 to 5,000 CUP ($25–$40 USD).
• Mid-Range:
  • Hotel Villa Soroa (Carretera a Soroa km 8, Soroa): Resort complex consisting of individual rustic bungalows, an outdoor swimming pool, tour desk, and open-air bar in a wooded mountain setting. Nightly rate: $50–$85 USD.
  • Casa Mercedes y Yoel (Las Terrazas): Guesthouse offering private rooms with balconies overlooking the lake and forest, air conditioning, and bike rentals. Nightly rate: $40–$65 USD.
• Upscale:
  • Hotel Moka (Las Terrazas Eco-Community): Eco-hotel designed around existing forest trees, featuring biophilic architecture, balconies facing Lake San Juan, a swimming pool, tennis court, and on-site dining. Nightly rate: $110–$175 USD.
  • Luxury international five-star resorts do not operate in Artemisa province; travelers seeking full-service luxury hotels can stay in Havana at properties such as Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski or Hotel Nacional de Cuba ($180–$350 USD per night) and tour Artemisa on private day excursions.

• Havana (La Habana) (60 km northeast via Autopista Nacional A4 or Carretera Central; 1 hour by car): Cuba's capital city, famous for the colonial core of Old Havana (Habana Vieja), the seaside Malecón, museums, and music venues.
• Viñales Valley (Pinar del Río) (105 km west via Autopista Nacional A4; 1 hour 30 minutes by car): UNESCO World Heritage landscape known for limestone mogote karsts, traditional tobacco drying barns, and cavern boat tours.
• Pinar del Río City (90 km west via Autopista Nacional A4; 1 hour 15 minutes by car): Provincial capital featuring neoclassical porticos, the Francisco Donatién cigar factory, and the Guayabita del Pinar liqueur distillery.
• Mayabeque Province (Jibacoa & Escaleras de Jaruco) (85 km east via the Havana ring road; 1 hour 15 minutes by car): Artemisa's sister province, offering coastal snorkeling along the coral reefs of Playa Jibacoa and hiking among the karst cliffs of Jaruco.