Freetown

Freetown is the capital city of Sierra Leone and the heart of the Western region, with well over a million inhabitants. It lies on a peninsula on the south bank of the estuary of the Sierra Leone River, at the foot of the peninsula mountains, facing one of the best natural harbours on the west coast of Africa. The peninsula is home to some of the finest beaches in Africa, including Lakka Beach, River No. 2 Beach, Bureh, and Tokeh Beach.

Freetown was founded in 1787 as a settlement for freed slaves from the British Empire, and its Krio culture reflects that heritage. The city endured the civil war (occupied by rebels twice) but has been peaceful since 2002. Its population has grown rapidly since, putting pressure on land and services. The climate is tropical monsoon with daytime highs around 30°C year-round. The driest months are December to April; May to November sees heavy rain, especially July and August.

By Plane

Freetown International Airport (IATA: FNA) at Lungi, across the estuary. A new terminal opened in 2023. Airport fee: US$25 on arrival and departure. Transport to Freetown is by water taxi (Sea Coach Express to Aberdeen Bridge, Sea Bird Express to Murray Town, ~US$50), Government ferry (Le 11,000, 3+ hours), or road via Port Loko (4+ hours).

By Train

Sierra Leone's railway closed in 1974. The National Railway Museum at Cline Town displays restored steam and diesel locomotives and is worth a visit.

By Car / Road

Many roads in Freetown have been reconstructed. A bypass links the western part to the rest of the country. Roads through Aberdeen, Lumley, and along the coastal peninsula have been completed. Government buses by the Sierra Leone Road Transport Corporation run from major cities. Poda podas (minibuses) are the most common form of intercity transport.

By Boat

Cargo ships from Conakry and Banjul sometimes take passengers. Seacoach Express operates a fast ferry from Conakry.

Shared taxis run fixed routes (Le 1,000 per ride). Chartered taxis (cha cha) cost about US$5/hour or US$50/day. Tuk-tuks are cheap but safety is poor. Poda-podas display start and end points. Hotel taxis are more expensive but in better condition (~US$10). Rental cars with drivers available from US$150/day plus fuel.

• Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary — A sanctuary for orphaned and rescued chimpanzees in the hills outside Freetown.

• Sierra Leone National Museum, Siaka Stevens St — Artefacts including masks, war relics, local costumes, and a replica of the De Ruyter Stone.

• National Railway Museum, Cline Street — One of only two government-funded railway museums in the world. M–Sa 10:30–17:00, by donation.

• Cape Sierra Leone Lighthouse (near Barmoi Hotel) — Built in 1812, refurbished 2010. Stunning Atlantic views.

• Colonial stilt houses at Hill Station — Insight into how colonial officials lived.

• Aberdeen Craft Market — Behind the Tourist Office, good for souvenirs with less hassle than Big Market.

• Beach days — Visit Lumley Beach, Lakka, River No. 2, Bureh, or Tokeh for swimming, sunbathing, and beach bars.

• Walking tour of downtown — See the Cotton Tree, St. George's Cathedral, and old Krio board houses.

• Nightlife — Aberdeen and Wilkinson Road have bars, clubs, and restaurants.

• Hike in the Western Area Peninsula National Park — Forest trails with waterfalls and viewpoints.

• Street food stalls — Beach road stalls sell grilled fish, meat skewers (about Le 6,000 for bread + 5 skewers), fruit, and peanuts.
• Aberdeen area — Several restaurants serving Sierra Leonean and international food.
• Wilkinson Road — Popular restaurants including Chinese, Lebanese, and local options.

Star Beer is the most common local lager. Bottled water is essential. Bars in Aberdeen and Lumley are lively, especially on weekends.

• Budget: Local guesthouses from US$20-40/night.
• Mid-range: Hotels in the Aberdeen and Lumley areas, US$60-100/night.
• Upscale: Hotels such as the Radisson Blu Mammy Yoko, US$150-250/night.
• Lodges near the beaches — Tokeh and River No. 2 have beachfront lodges.

• Big Market (downtown) — Everything from fabric to electronics. Expect to bargain.
• Aberdeen Craft Market — Local handicrafts, carvings, and souvenirs with less hassle.
• Wilkinson Road — Larger retail outlets.

• Western Area Peninsula National Park — Rainforest hiking and waterfalls on the peninsula.
• Banana Islands — Pristine tropical islands with beach resorts and snorkelling.
• River No. 2 Beach — One of the finest beaches in West Africa.
• Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary — Chimpanzee and bird sanctuary on the Moa River.
• Makeni (2 hours north) — Provincial capital of Northern Province.