Cacheu

Cacheu is a small city of about 10,000 people in northwestern Guinea-Bissau, situated on the Cacheu River near its Atlantic mouth. Founded in 1588, it was one of the earliest European colonial settlements in sub-Saharan Africa and became the official slave-trading point for the Portuguese in the Upper Guinea region during the 17th and 18th centuries. The town's name is of Bainuk origin — "Caticheu," meaning "the place where we rest."

The town's main landmark is the Portuguese-built 16th-century fort, a picturesque structure that was used to ship slaves to the Americas. The surrounding Tarafes de Cacheu Natural Park protects a vast mangrove ecosystem. The population is primarily Papel, and the town has a relaxed, crumbling colonial charm that makes it one of Guinea-Bissau's most atmospheric destinations.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Osvaldo Vieira International Airport (OXB) in Bissau, about 100 km south. From Bissau, take a sept-place shared taxi to Canchungo (1.5 hours), then change to another for Cacheu (30 minutes).

By Car / Road

Roads from Bissau to Canchungo and on to Cacheu have been renovated and are in very good condition. The drive from Bissau takes about 2 hours. It is also possible to take a canoa (canoe) from Cacheu to Sao Domingos, not on Sundays unless you pay for the whole canoe.

The town is compact and walkable. Tarrafes Natural Park can be visited by canoe. Regular (non-tourist) canoe trips to Sao Domingos leave daily around 10:00 from the harbour (less than €3 as of 2008). "Tabancas" (small villages) around Cacheu can be visited with local guides.

• Fortaleza de Cacheu — the 16th-century Portuguese fort, with old bronze statues inside. If locked, the friendly key-holder lives nearby.

• Memorial da Escravatura e do Tráfico Negreiro (Memorial to Slavery and Trafficking) — housed in Casa Gouveia on the waterfront, with objects such as iron sticks, whips, chains, and metals used to mark slaves.

• Tarafes de Cacheu Natural Park — a protected mangrove ecosystem accessible by canoe.

• Casa do Capitao Mor — a cultural centre created with Portuguese cooperation.

• Visit the fort and the slavery memorial for a deep historical experience

• Take a canoe trip through the Tarafes de Cacheu Natural Park

• Visit the cultural centre "Casa do Capitao Mor"

• Take a day-trip by canoe to Sao Domingos

• Visit the "tabancas" (traditional villages) around Cacheu with a local guide

Small restaurants at the harbour serve rice with fish or meat — mostly open for lunch only. Otherwise, buy bread and tinned food and self-cater.

The nightclub "Butu de Cacheu" is the only place to drink, dance, and listen to African music.

Basic bungalows next to the harbour are reasonably clean and not expensive. The hotel next to the fort was under renovation. Alternatively, ask around in town and someone will know someone who can arrange accommodation. For better hotels and restaurants, return to Canchungo or Bissau for the night.

The Catholic mission sells local fruit jams to fund medical and healthcare activities among children. Other shopping is limited to basic provisions in local shops.

• Canchungo — 30 km south, the commercial hub of Norte with better accommodation
• Sao Domingos — accessible by canoe, a coastal town at the river mouth
• Cacheu River Mangroves Natural Park — adjacent, for wildlife and mangrove exploration
• Bissau — 100 km south, the national capital