Cidade Velha

Cidade Velha (Portuguese for "Old City") is a historic town located on the southern coast of Santiago Island, Cabo Verde, about 15 km west of the capital, Praia. Formerly known as Ribeira Grande, it was founded in 1462 and holds the distinction of being the first European colonial settlement in the tropics and the earliest capital of Cabo Verde. Because of its pivotal role in the transatlantic slave trade and its well-preserved Portuguese colonial architecture, Cidade Velha was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2009.

The town is situated in a dramatic setting at the mouth of a deep valley, surrounded by arid hills and overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The climate is warm and arid year-round, typical of southern Santiago Island. It makes for an excellent day or half-day trip from Praia, offering visitors a quiet, peaceful atmosphere that contrasts sharply with the busy energy of the capital. The layout centers around the historic waterfront ruins, a central square, and narrow valleys extending inland.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI) in Praia, located approximately 18 km east of Cidade Velha. From the airport, visitors can take a taxi directly to Cidade Velha for about 1,500 CVE, or take a cheap taxi (500 CVE) to the center of Praia and catch local transport from there.

By Car / Road

Cidade Velha is easily accessible from Praia. By car, the drive takes about 15 to 20 minutes along a paved road. Regular alugueres (shared minibuses) depart frequently from the Sucupira Market in Praia; the fare is around 200 CVE per person, and they drop passengers off near the main square in Cidade Velha or at the side road leading up to the fortress. A private taxi from Praia to Cidade Velha costs around 1,000 CVE each way.

Cidade Velha's historic center is very compact and can easily be explored entirely on foot.

• On Foot: Walking is the only practical way to see the sights. Sturdy walking shoes are recommended, as the streets are paved with uneven, historic cobblestones, and the path from the fortress down to the town center is steep.
• Taxis: Taxis are not typically needed within the town, but they can be hired near the main square for return trips to Praia or other destinations.

• Forte Real de São Filipe (São Felipe Royal Fort): A 16th-century fortress perched on a hill 120 meters above the town. Built to protect the colony from pirates (including Sir Francis Drake), it offers panoramic views of the ocean and the town. Entrance is 500 CVE and includes a map.

• Pelourinho (The Pillory): A marble monument in the main town square erected in 1512 or 1520. It stands as a symbol of the town's history with the slave trade, where rebellious slaves were publicly punished.

• Rua Banana: Widely considered the oldest European-built street in sub-Saharan Africa. This narrow, cobblestone street is lined with traditional stone houses with thatched roofs.

• Sé Catedral Ruins: The ruins of a massive cathedral constructed between 1556 and 1693, once one of the grandest buildings in the region before it was destroyed by French corsairs in 1712.

• Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário: A small, historic church built in 1495 at the end of Rua Banana, featuring a Manueline-style Gothic chapel.

• Convento de São Francisco: A ruined Franciscan convent dating back to the mid-17th century, located in the upper valley.

• Walking Tour: Start at the fort to collect a map, then walk downhill to the cathedral ruins, the seaside, the main square, and up through Rua Banana to the historic chapel.

• Scenic Hikes: Hike up the Ribeira Grande valley inland from the town, enjoying the lush vegetation and agricultural plots growing sugarcane, coconuts, and mangoes.

• Cultural Festivals: If visiting in January, experience the local festival of São Sebastião, featuring traditional drumming, dancing, and religious processions.

• Tereru di Kultura: A highly rated restaurant near the main square offering a terrace setting and traditional Creole gastronomy.
• Batuku Espaço Cidade Velha: Known for its pleasant atmosphere, ocean views, and excellent Creole dishes, including fresh grilled seafood.
• Praça do Mar: A seaside restaurant serving the catch of the day and traditional stews, where diners can watch local fishermen bring in their boats.
• Restaurante Pelourinho: Located right on the main square, serving simple local dishes and refreshing drinks to tourists.

• Grogue: The locally produced sugarcane rum is a staple, often served neat.
• Pontche de Coco: A sweet, traditional coconut-flavored liqueur made from grogue.
• Water Safety: Tap water is not safe to drink. Visitors should purchase bottled water, which is readily available at local shops and restaurants.

• Budget:
  • Pousada Quinta Ribeirinha: A peaceful guesthouse set in a green area slightly inland, offering rooms and a swimming pool from 3,500 CVE per night.
• Mid-range:
  • Pousada Villa Concetta: A comfortable guesthouse close to the historical sights, offering modern rooms and friendly service from 5,500 CVE per night.
• Upscale / heritage:
  • Hotel Vulcão: Located near the coast, this hotel features a large swimming pool, comfortable rooms, and an on-site restaurant from 9,000 CVE per night.

• Local Crafts: Small souvenir stalls near the Pelourinho and the main square sell local crafts, handmade coconut-shell jewelry, and woven cloths.
• Sugarcane Products: Traditional local grogue (rum) and molasses produced in the surrounding valley can be purchased from local vendors.
• Bargaining: Mild bargaining is acceptable at tourist stalls, but prices are generally low and fixed in local shops.

• Praia (15 km east, 20 mins): The capital city of Cabo Verde, offering markets, shopping, museums, and a wider range of dining and nightlife.
• Rui Vaz (30 km north, 45 mins): A scenic mountain village located in the interior of Santiago Island, popular for hiking and panoramic views.
• Tarrafal (65 km north, 1 hour 15 mins): Known for its white sand beach, coconut trees, and historic former political prison camp.