Cha das Caldeiras

Chã das Caldeiras is a unique volcanic plateau situated inside the massive caldera (crater) of Pico do Fogo, an active stratovolcano on the island of Fogo in Cabo Verde. Located at an altitude of approximately 1,700 meters, this dramatic landscape is home to the twin villages of Portela and Bangaeira, which sprawl along the main road that traverses the crater floor. The caldera was formed about 100,000 years ago and remains a place of raw geological power, with the most recent major volcanic eruption occurring between November 2014 and February 2015. Despite the constant volcanic threat, local residents have rebuilt their lives here, drawn by the exceptionally fertile volcanic soils.

The community thrives on high-altitude agriculture, famously producing the unique 'Manecom' Fogo wine from grapes grown directly in the black volcanic ash. They also cultivate apples, pears, peaches, figs, and quince. The climate in the caldera is cooler and drier than the coastal areas, with daytime temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C, dropping significantly at night. The landscape is a stark, beautiful contrast of black lava fields, green agricultural plots, and the towering cone of Pico do Fogo.

By Plane

The nearest airport is São Filipe Airport (SFL) in São Filipe, which is about 30 km away. There are daily flights connecting São Filipe to Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI) in Praia, the capital of Cabo Verde. A taxi from the airport to Chã das Caldeiras takes about 1 to 1.5 hours, climbing winding mountain roads, and costs around 3,000 to 4,000 CVE.

By Car / Road

Alugueres (shared minibuses) depart from the town of São Filipe (near the municipal market) around noon daily, costing about 500 CVE per person for a 3-hour journey with frequent stops. Alternatively, a private pick-up run by Patrick (proprietor of Pousada Pedra Brabo) leaves from his office above the São Filipe market around 11:00, taking about 2 hours for 500 CVE. Taxis charge a flat rate of around 3,000 CVE to 4,000 CVE for a private transfer. Going back, Patrick's pickup departs Chã at 08:30, and alugueres depart earlier in the morning.

The villages of Portela and Bangaeira are joined together and can be easily explored on foot. Walking along the main road and established paths is the primary way to get around the crater floor. For longer distances or hiking outside the caldera, visitors must hire a local guide or arrange transport via local pick-ups.

• Pico do Fogo: The imposing main active stratovolcano peak, rising to 2,829 meters above sea level.

• Pico Pequeno (2014 Crater): The smaller vent formed during the 2014–2015 eruption, showcasing fresh lava flows and active fumaroles.

• Lava Flows of Portela and Bangaeira: The basaltic lava fields that partially engulfed the villages during the 2014 eruption, showing houses half-buried under volcanic rock.

• Monte Velha Forest: A lush pine and eucalyptus forest located on the northern outer slopes of the caldera, offering a stark contrast to the barren volcanic landscape.

• Climbing Pico do Fogo: The premier activity on Fogo. A strenuous 3-to-4-hour hike to the summit followed by a fast run down the steep ash slopes. Climbing without a certified local guide is prohibited; guide fees start at around 5,000 CVE for up to two people.

• Hiking to Mosteiros: A scenic downhill trek from the caldera through the humid fog forest of Monte Velha, ending in the coastal town of Mosteiros.

• Volcanic Wine Tasting: Visit the local cooperative or individual cellars to taste the unique, locally produced red, white, and passito wines.

• Cafe Marisa: Offers hearty, home-cooked Cape Verdean buffet meals and local wine in a cozy dining room, with dinner costing around 1,000 to 1,500 CVE.
• Bar Restaurant Escrola: Located behind Cafe Marisa (tel. +238 9771233), serving fresh grilled fish, catch of the day, and traditional cachupa alongside a full bar.
• Casa Ramiro: Open daily from 18:00 to 22:00 (tel. +238 9914262), specializing in traditional Creole dishes, fresh stews, and local wines.
• Cafe Isabella: A simple cafe and snack bar offering light meals, sandwiches, and refreshments throughout the day.

• Manecom Wine: The famous local volcanic wine, typically served red and slightly sweet, brewed using traditional methods.
• Grogue and Ponche: Local sugarcane spirits available at small grocery stores and bars.
• Water Safety: Tap water is not potable in the caldera; visitors must drink bottled water, which is brought up from São Filipe.

• Budget:
  • Ciza e Rose: A friendly homestay in the Portela section (tel. +238 5834112) offering basic rooms, family meals, and warm hospitality for around 2,524 CVE per night.
  • Pensao Casa José Doce: Located in Portela (tel. +238 9527093), featuring clean rooms, shared kitchen facilities, Wi-Fi, and a bar, with rates starting at 2,524 CVE per night.
• Mid-range:
  • Casa Alcindo: A well-established guesthouse in Portela (tel. +238 9921409) featuring comfortable private rooms, delicious communal dinners, Wi-Fi, and guide services, from 4,580 CVE per night.
  • Casa Marisa: Offers unique yurt-like stone cabins (tel. +238 9771233) built directly on the lava fields, with an on-site restaurant, solar power, and Wi-Fi, starting at 6,262 CVE per night.
• Upscale / heritage:

• Fogo Wine (Manecom): The locally produced volcanic wine, available in red, white, and sweet passito varieties, purchased directly from local cellars or the wine cooperative.
• Volcanic Crafts: Small figurines, bowls, and models of the volcano carved from black volcanic basalt rock by local artisans.
• Fogo Coffee: Locally grown organic coffee beans cultivated on the fertile northern slopes of the island.

• São Filipe (30 km, 1.5 hours): The capital of Fogo, famous for its colonial sobrados architecture, black sand beaches, and airport.
• Mosteiros (15 km hike): A town on the northern coast of Fogo, accessible by a beautiful downhill hiking trail through the Monte Velha forest.
• Cova Figueira (25 km, 1 hour): A small town on the southeastern slopes of the volcano, offering coastal views.