Buon Ma Thuot

Buon Ma Thuot (also spelled Buôn Ma Thuột or Ban Mê Thuột) is the capital city of Đắk Lắk Province in Vietnam's Central Highlands. Despite its quiet appearance, the city is developing rapidly, driven mostly by internal investment rather than tourism. With friendly locals, excellent coffee, and an authentic Vietnamese city experience that does not revolve around tourism, it makes an excellent stop for travellers seeking the road less travelled. It also serves as a convenient base for exploring Yok Don National Park, Ban Don Village, and Lak Lake.

The climate is tropical with distinct wet and dry seasons. The dry season from November to April is the best time to visit, while the rainy season from May to October brings heavy downpours. Temperatures are milder than Vietnam's coastal cities due to the 536 m elevation.

By Plane

Buon Ma Thuot Airport (BMV IATA) is 10 km from the city centre, reachable by taxi. Phone: +84 262 3862 248. There are connections with Da Nang and Hanoi (via Da Nang) three times a week, and daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City.

By Car / Road

Buon Ma Thuot is 194 km from Nha Trang, 197 km from Pleiku, 223 km from Quy Nhon, 350 km from Ho Chi Minh City, 213 km from Da Lat, and 1,427 km from Hanoi. Buses serve the city from Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City (departing from Mien Dong Bus Station). The Buon Ma Thuot Bus Station is 3 km east of the centre. Several buses travel daily to Pleiku, Da Nang, Quy Nhon (11 hours), Nha Trang (6 hours), and Ho Chi Minh City (18 hours). Mai Linh Express runs hunter green Mercedes Sprinters that cut travel times considerably — the journey to Nha Trang costs 90,000 dong, takes about 3½ hours, and runs four times daily.

Taxis including Mai Linh operate throughout the city. Mai Linh's local number is +84 500 381 9819. Most drivers do not speak English, so carry written notes or show a map on your phone. The city is compact and flat, making it bike-friendly. Motorbike and car rentals are available — check whether your driving licence is valid in Vietnam before renting. BEAgo (+84 946 947 447) offers bike rental services.

• Ako Dhong (buôn Cô Thôn): An Ê-đê minority community on the northern end of the city, reachable on foot. Longhouses surrounded by flowery yards offer a glimpse of traditional minority culture within the urban fabric.
• Dray Nur Waterfall: 30 km by taxi from Buon Ma Thuot. Impressive falls and recreation area, especially recommended in the wet season.
• Đray Sáp Waterfall: 300 m from Dray Nur, 30 km from the city. Entry 30,000 dong. Less impressive in dry season but still worth exploring.
• Eatu Café: 22 KT Street, Ko Tam village, Eatu commune. +84 905 326 699. A fair-trade coffee cooperative and manufacturer funded by the European Union, open for visits.
• Khai Doan Pagoda: Breathtaking views from the hilltop and halfway up. Worth a visit on the way to Lak Lake.
• Lak Lake: The mother lake of the Central Highlands, about an hour south by bus.

Visit Ban Don village — from the centre of Buon Ma Thuot, catch a bus every 30 minutes from Coop Mart to secure a seat. Note that elephant riding in Ban Don has been discontinued. Explore the coffee culture, visit local waterfalls, and take day trips to the surrounding natural attractions.

Buon Ma Thuot has a surprisingly good food scene that most guidebooks overlook. A wander northwest of the main roundabout after 18:00 reveals street stalls and small restaurants serving hủ tiếu, phở, bún, cơm, and nem. Lý Thường Kiệt street has several roll-your-own spring roll joints. A tasty cơm hến (a Huế speciality) is available at a simple place across from CoopMart — walk past the front room into a garden back area with birds and an indoor waterfall. KFC is available at CoopMart.

Buon Ma Thuot is the coffee capital of Vietnam, a country second only to Brazil in coffee exports. Cafés line every street, many offering several bean varieties and roasts. Emerald's Cafe in Tân Lợi and Trung Nguyên's flagship coffee gardens (149-153 Lý Thái Tổ, 06:30–22:00) — a huge pleasure garden with man-made mountains, waterfalls, coffee trees, and traditional Vietnamese and Ê-đê buildings — are standouts. Mehyco Cafe (159/3 Nguyễn Văn Cừ, +84 262 3865 221) also has a nice garden. Try the local brew rượu cần, a traditional rice wine drunk through bamboo straws from a communal jar.

• Budget: Ngoc Mai Guesthouse (B14 Điện Biên Phủ, city centre, +84 500 3853 406, [email protected]) — great guesthouse 200 m from the night market. Rooms with air-con, TV, indoor motorbike parking. Friendly English- and French-speaking staff. From US$9. Thanh Ngoc (117 Nguyễn Văn Cừ, +84 913 436 427) — great little hotel from 150,000 dong with air-con, TV, and indoor motorbike parking.
• Mid-range: Huong Khue (32 Ngô Gia Tự, next to the bus station, +84 913 498 346) — simple but clean. Rooms from 120,000 dong. Several other hotels on the same road.

• Phượng Shop: 45 Ngô Quyền, +84 500 3852 981. Wood sculptures, bamboo souvenirs, cocoa powder, coffee (ground and beans), assorted nuts, and local spices. Tours to the coffee roasting factory can be arranged.
• Vincom Plaza: 78 Lý Thường Kiệt. A shopping centre with clothing stores, a movie theatre, fast food, a supermarket, and Baskin Robbins. No local souvenirs.
• CoopMart: 71 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Tân An. +84 262 3957 988, 08:00–22:00. Supermarket and shopping centre with KFC on the first floor.

• Lak Lake — About an hour south by bus. A beautiful lake with minority villages around it. Reachable by local bus running every half hour.
• Yok Don National Park — Vietnam's largest nature reserve, home to elephants, wild cattle, and diverse birdlife. Day trips from Buon Ma Thuot.
• Pleiku — A Central Highlands city 160 km west of Quy Nhon, strategically important during the Vietnam-American War.
• Da Lat — The old French hill station with spring-like climate, 213 km away. Several buses daily from Buon Ma Thuot (80,000 dong, about 5 hours).
• Nha Trang — A booming beach resort 194 km east, popular with international tourists.
• Gia Nghĩa — A city off the beaten track that does not revolve around tourism.