Lau Lagoon

Lau Lagoon stretches along the northeast coast of Malaita Island in the Solomon Islands, a long, reef-sheltered waterway famous for its artificial islands — a maze of hand-built coral islets crowded with raised houses, narrow canoe lanes, and saltwater gardens. Like the Langa Langa Lagoon on Malaita's west coast, Lau is home to "saltwater people" who, over generations, piled coral stone on the reef to create their own land, building self-contained island communities just offshore from the mainland. The result is one of the most visually striking and culturally distinctive places in the Pacific.

Life in the Lau Lagoon revolves around the sea: fishing, canoe travel, the making of shell money and fish traps, and a strong customary culture maintained on the artificial islands. For the traveller willing to make the journey to this remote part of Malaita, the lagoon offers a rare chance to take a canoe ride through the stilt villages, stay overnight in a village house, and watch craftsmen at work up close. It is unspoiled, authentic, and far from any tourist circuit.

The climate is hot and humid year-round. The drier months from roughly May to October are the most settled for travel and canoe journeys, while the November-to-April wet season is rainier and cyclone-prone. The lagoon is remote and services are minimal; take malaria precautions, travel respectfully, and arrange everything through local hosts.

By Plane

The regional gateway is Gwaunaru'u Airport (IATA: AKS) near Auki, with daily flights from Honiara on Solomon Airlines and other domestic carriers. From Auki you continue overland and by canoe to the northeast coast and the lagoon — a long journey across the island.

By Train

Not relevant — there are no railways in the Solomon Islands.

By Car / Road

Reaching Lau Lagoon involves rough road travel across Malaita from Auki toward the northeast coast, by truck or hired vehicle, followed by canoe to the artificial islands. Roads are poor and journeys slow; allow plenty of time and expect to combine road and water transport.

By sea, the lagoon is also reached by boat along the coast, and Auki connects to Honiara by fast boat (about three hours) and by cargo vessels.

Within the lagoon, travel is entirely by canoe — the artificial islands are linked by narrow water lanes, not roads. On the mainland, trucks run on the rough coastal roads. Engage a local guide and boatman for any lagoon visit, both for practicality and as the respectful, customary way to enter the island communities. Agree fares and visit fees in advance.

• Artificial islands and stilt villages — The heart of the lagoon: man-made coral islets crowded with raised houses and laced with canoe lanes, among the most remarkable settlements in the Pacific.

• Saltwater gardens — Floating and reef-edge gardens that sustain the island communities, a distinctive feature of Lau life.

• Shell-money and craft making — Watch craftsmen produce shell money, fish traps, and other goods using traditional methods.

• Lagoon scenery — Calm, reef-protected water, mangroves, and the long sweep of the Malaita coast.

• Canoe tour of the lagoon — Glide through the stilt villages and canoe lanes by outboard or paddled canoe, the essential Lau experience.

• Overnight village stay — Stay in a village house on one of the artificial islands to experience daily life, fishing, and culture firsthand.

• Craft demonstrations — See and learn shell-money making and fish-trap weaving from local craftsmen, and buy directly.

• Fishing and snorkelling — Join the lagoon's fishers or snorkel its reefs with local guides.

Food is simple village fare — fresh fish and seafood, root crops, rice, coconut, and tropical fruit, provided by host families rather than restaurants, of which there are none. Self-caterers should provision in Auki before travelling. Vegetarian eating relies on the local staples.

specific named eateries and price tiers not verified — confirm locally.

Treat or boil local water, or bring bottled water from Auki. Fresh coconut is plentiful. Alcohol is scarce in the lagoon villages; respect local customs. Nightlife is absent.

Accommodation is village-based — overnight stays in village houses on the artificial islands, arranged through local hosts, with very simple conditions and modest rates. This is part of the appeal: there are no hotels or resorts, and a homestay is the authentic way to experience the lagoon.

specific property names and nightly rates not verified — arrange village stays in advance.

Shell money and locally made crafts — fish traps, woven goods, and ornaments — can be bought directly from makers in the lagoon villages, authentic and meaningful purchases. Otherwise there is no shopping beyond basic goods. Carry cash in Solomon Islands dollars, as there are no banking facilities; bring enough for purchases and customary fees.

• Auki (across Malaita, on the west coast) — the provincial capital, market, airport, and main base for reaching the lagoon.
• Langa Langa Lagoon (southwest coast of Malaita, near Auki) — the other great lagoon of artificial islands and shell money.
• Honiara (by air via Auki, or by boat) — the national capital, on Guadalcanal.
• Malaita coast and interior (around the island) — villages, beaches, and bush walks for the adventurous.