Ascension

Ascension Island is a stark volcanic outpost in the South Atlantic, just south of the equator. Administered as part of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha, it is a working island with a military and communications presence rather than a tourist destination — which is precisely its appeal. The island's landscape is dominated by dramatic lava flows, cinder cones, and the improbably lush Green Mountain rising from the desert-like terrain.

Visitors come for the isolation, the world-class sport fishing, the opportunity to see green sea turtles nesting on the beaches, and the peculiar charm of a place where the golf course greens are made of sand and oil. With no public transport and limited facilities, Ascension is for self-sufficient travellers who appreciate raw volcanic scenery and subtropical wildlife.

The climate is subtropical and dry, with warm temperatures year-round. The best time to visit is December to May, when the sea is calmest for fishing and the weather is most pleasant for hiking. Rain is minimal except on the upper slopes of Green Mountain, which is often shrouded in mist.

There is no public transport and no taxis on Ascension Island. Most visitors arrange a hire car in advance through their employer or sponsor. The road network is limited but paved between the main settlements of Georgetown, Two Boats, and the airfield. Walking is feasible for short distances but the sun is intense and shade scarce.

• Georgetown — The main settlement and port, with colonial buildings, the island's only pub, and administrative offices.
• Two Boats — A small settlement midway between Georgetown and the airfield, named for its location between two dry river valleys.
• Travellers Hill — A residential and support-services area near the US base, with accommodation and the Volcano Club.
• Cat Hill — The southernmost settlement on the island, housing US military and contractor personnel.
• Green Mountain — Ascension's lush green peak, a remarkable man-made cloud forest offering cool hiking trails and panoramic views.

All food on Ascension is imported, making dining expensive and limited. The Restaurant at the Obsidian Hotel and the Snack Bar at the Volcano Club are the main options. Fresh fish is available if you go fishing with locals. Occasional community fish fries are a highlight. Dietary options are very limited — self-catering with supplies brought from Saint Helena or the UK is common.

The culture is a mix of British military, US contractor, and Saint Helenian civilian influences. There are no large-scale festivals. The island's small community celebrates public holidays with casual gatherings. The annual Ascension Day service at St Mary's Anglican Church marks the island's namesake. The post office's philatelic releases are popular with stamp collectors worldwide.

• Sport fishing for tuna, wahoo, and marlin in the rich South Atlantic waters.
• Hiking Green Mountain's trails, passing through distinct climate zones from arid lowlands to cloud forest.
• Watching green sea turtles nest at Long Beach and nearby coves.
• Exploring volcanic fumaroles and lava tunnels at Command Hill.
• Letterboxing — hiking to a destination that contains a log book and rubber stamp — a quirky local pastime.