Alor Setar

Alor Setar (also spelled Alor Star) is the state capital of Kedah, located in the northern part of Peninsular Malaysia about 60 km south of the Thai border. With a population of around 405,000, it is a laid-back city known for its rich cultural heritage, royal connections, and as the birthplace of two of Malaysia's prime ministers: Tunku Abdul Rahman (the first PM) and Mahathir Mohamad (the fourth PM). The city is situated in the heart of the Kedah Plain, the rice bowl of Malaysia, surrounded by lush paddy fields that turn a brilliant green after the rains. The skyline is dominated by the 165 m tall Menara Alor Setar (telecommunications tower) and the spectacular Zahir Mosque, one of Malaysia's oldest and most beautiful mosques. The city has a relaxed pace compared to Kuala Lumpur and is known for its Kedahan cuisine.

By Plane

Sultan Abdul Halim Airport (AOR IATA) is about 13 km north of the city centre. It has flights from Kuala Lumpur (AirAsia, Malaysia Airlines, Firefly) and domestic connections to Penang and Kota Bharu. Airport taxis cost RM30 to the city centre; there is also a limited public bus service.

By Train

Alor Setar Railway Station is on the KTM West Coast Line. ETS trains from Kuala Lumpur (5.5 hours), Penang (1.5 hours), and Padang Besar (1 hour) stop here. The station is about 2 km from the city centre.

By Car / Road

Alor Setar is about 400 km north of Kuala Lumpur via the North-South Expressway (E1), about 5 hours by car. From Penang, take the E1 north via the Penang Bridge (about 1.5 hours). Express buses from Kuala Lumpur (TBS), Penang, and Ipoh serve the Shahab Perdana bus terminal. Fares from KL are around RM45–60.

Alor Setar is compact and easy to navigate. The city centre is walkable, particularly around the Padang (field) and the main mosque area. Trishaws (beca) are available for short trips. Grab and taxis are affordable. Local buses serve the suburbs but frequency is low.

• Zahir Mosque (Masjid Zahir) — One of Malaysia's oldest and most stunning mosques, built in 1912 with a black-domed Moorish/Islamic design. Located next to the Padang. Open to visitors outside prayer times.

• Menara Alor Setar — A 165 m telecommunications tower with an observation deck and revolving restaurant. Great panoramic views of the paddy fields and the city. Open 10AM–10PM. Entry RM15.

• Balai Besar (Great Hall) — The former Kedah Royal Palace (built 1735), now a heritage building used for official ceremonies. Located on Jalan Sultan.

• Balai Nobat (Hall of Nobat) — A small building housing the nobat, the royal orchestra instruments that date back centuries. A unique cultural symbol of Kedah.

• Tunku Abdul Rahman Birthplace — A museum in the former family home of Malaysia's first prime minister, showcasing his life and artefacts.

• Galeri Sultanah — A museum in the old royal palace, highlighting Kedah's sultanate and history.

• Kedah State Museum (Muzium Negeri Kedah) — Located about 2 km from the centre, covering the state's archaeology, history, and culture.

• Pekan Rabu (Wednesday Market) — A large covered market that is now open daily, selling local crafts, food, and souvenirs.

• Walk the Padang — The central green space surrounded by the mosque, Balai Besar, and government buildings. Beautiful at dusk.

• Explore the paddy fields — Drive or cycle through the surrounding countryside to see the rice paddies that earned Kedah the nickname "rice bowl of Malaysia."

• Visit the night market (pasar malam) — Monday evenings at Mergong, Tuesday at Jalan Pegawai.

• River cruise on Sungai Kedah — Boat tours along the Kedah River, particularly scenic in the late afternoon.

Kedah cuisine is distinct, with influences from Thailand and the northern Malay states. Signature dishes include nasi ulam (rice with herbs and spices), laksa Kedah (a sour fish-based laksa), bandung drinks, and roti canai.

• Restoran Nasi Ulam Kak Su — Famous nasi ulam with a variety of side dishes. Jalan Putra.
• E&O Kopitiam — Old-school coffee shop serving kaya toast, half-boiled eggs, and white coffee.
• Restoran 1916 — Nyonya and Thai-influenced dishes.
• Nasi Kandar Alor Setar — Several outlets serving the northern nasi kandar (rice with various curries).
• Pasar Malam stalls — Local street food: apam balik, satay, grilled fish.

Local kopi Kedah (Kedah white coffee) is a regional specialty, slightly different from Ipoh white coffee. Teh tarik is widely available. Air tebu (sugarcane juice) and air kelapa (coconut water) are at market stalls. Bandung (rose-flavoured milk drink) is particularly popular here.

• Budget: T Hotel Alor Setar (from RM55/night); Hotel Seri Malaysia Alor Setar (from RM80/night).
• Mid-range: Grand Alora Hotel (from RM130/night) near Aman Central; Royale Signature Hotel (from RM150/night).
• Upscale: The Leverage Business Hotel (from RM180/night); Sentinel Hotel Waterfront (from RM200/night).

Pekan Rabu (Wednesday Market) is the main shopping destination — batik, songket, local handicrafts, and traditional Kedah snacks. The Alor Setar Mall and Aman Central are modern shopping centres. Local products include dodol (sticky toffee), serunding (meat floss), and beras pulut (glutinous rice).

• Langkawi — 50 km west (ferry from Kuala Kedah jetty). Duty-free island, cable car, and beaches.
• Kuala Kedah — 10 km west. Fishing village and ferry terminal for Langkawi.
• Penang — 90 km south via E1. George Town street food and heritage.
• Pulau Payar Marine Park — 30 km west. Snorkelling and diving from Langkawi/Kuala Kedah.
• Sungai Petani — 60 km south. Kedah's largest city by population.
• Thai border (Hat Yai) — 100 km north (1.5 hr drive via Bukit Kayu Hitam).