Nosy Be

Nosy Be is Madagascar's premier resort island, located off the north-west coast in the Mozambique Channel. Known as the "Perfumed Island" for its abundance of ylang-ylang, vanilla, and frangipani, it is the country's most developed tourist destination. The island has a volcanic origin, rising to low forested hills, fringed by white-sand beaches, palm trees, and coral reefs.

The main port and largest settlement is Hell-Ville (Andoany), but most visitors stay along the beaches of Ambatoloaka, Madirokely, and Dzamandzar. The climate is tropical with a hot rainy season (December–April) and a cooler dry season (May–November). Nosy Be offers a complete tropical island experience: diving, snorkelling, lemur-spotting, boat excursions, and lively nightlife.

By Plane

Fascene Airport (NOS IATA) is on the north-east of the island. Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa, Airlink from Johannesburg, Air Austral from Bangkok, Mauritius, Chennai, and Réunion, and EWA Air from Dar es Salaam via Dzaoudzi. Neos has seasonal flights from Italy. Taxis from the airport serve all parts of the island. There is no foreign exchange counter airside on departure.

By Train

By Car / Road

Speedboats from Ankify port on the mainland to Hell-Ville port (20,000 Ar, 45 min). Two slower car ferries are available (recommended only with a vehicle). Besady Plus sells combination ferry/bus tickets from Hell-Ville to Antananarivo (100,000 Ar). A taxi-brousse from Ankify Port to Ambanja costs 6,000 Ar (1 hour).

Taxis-brousses operate from 2,000 Ar per person. Taxis are available for private hire. Walking is feasible along the Madirokely–Ambatoloaka strip, but a vehicle is needed for the wider island.

• Lokobe National Park — A superb example of lowland rainforest on the south-east of the island, home to black lemurs, chameleons, and countless bird species.

• Nosy Tanikely — A tiny uninhabited marine sanctuary south-west of Nosy Be, offering world-class snorkelling and scuba diving.

• Nosy Komba — A less-developed island south of Nosy Be with no cars, black lemurs, and small resorts.

• Nosy Iranja — Two islands connected at low tide by a 750 m sandy spit (a must-do excursion).

• Nosy Sakatia — A small island with charming locals, weaving demonstrations, and scuba diving.

• Moraingy Fight Games — La Banane, Dzamandzar. Traditional bare-knuckle martial art combat every Sunday afternoon. Entry 10,000 Ar.

• Lemurland and sacred trees — Organised tours to lemur sanctuaries and ancient baobab trees.

• Diving and snorkelling — Numerous dive centres; Sakatia Lodge on Nosy Sakatia is a top choice.

• Yacht Gecko ([email protected], +27845249706) — Fully crewed catamaran charters including fishing, snorkelling, and kayaking. Six nights minimum.

• Maki Cat — Motorised catamaran charter for exclusive use with meals, activities, fishing, and diving. Six nights minimum, four people minimum.

• Excursions to Nosy Iranja, Nosy Tanikely, and Nosy Komba.

Nosy Be's dining scene is the best in northern Madagascar. Madirokely beach has numerous restaurants serving Malagasy, French, Italian, and Creole cuisine. Fresh seafood, zebu steak, and vanilla-infused dishes are highlights. Dietary options (vegetarian, gluten-free) are available at most tourist-oriented restaurants.

Nightlife is concentrated in Madirokely, south-west of the island. Tatie Chris (Madirokely beach) hosts a big party every Sunday from noon until late. THB beer, rum-based cocktails, and fresh tropical juices are widely available. Bottled water is essential.

• Budget: Guesthouses in Hell-Ville from 30,000–50,000 Ar.
• Mid-range: Coucher du Soleil (Madirokely, Ambatoloaka, +261 32 02 087 21, [email protected]) — Individual huts with balcony, mosquito nets, Wi-Fi, breakfast with sea view. Double with bathroom 25 €, breakfast 4 €.
• Upscale / heritage: Luxury resorts along the beaches of Andilana and Nosy Sakatia, from 150–400 € per night (prices vary by season).

Nosy Be's markets sell vanilla, ylang-ylang oil, spices, woven baskets, and carved wooden items. Hell-Ville has the main market. Prices are higher than on the mainland.

• Nosy Komba (20 min by boat from Hell-Ville) — Quiet island with black lemurs and Nosy Komba Lodge.
• Nosy Tanikely (30 min by boat) — Marine sanctuary with exceptional snorkelling.
• Ankify / Ambanja (45 min speedboat + 1 hr road) — Mainland gateway back to RN6.
• Antsiranana (8–9 hours by road) — Provincial capital and colonial port city.