Teraina

Teraina (also known as Washington Island) is a unique coral atoll in the Northern Line Islands, about 520 km north of the equator. Unlike most atolls, Teraina contains a large permanent freshwater lake (Washington Lake), the only such lake in all of Kiribati, concealed within a dense coconut palm forest. The atoll measures about 5.4 by 2.1 km with a land area of about 9.55 km². The island is exceptionally wet due to its position within the Intertropical Convergence Zone, making it one of the "wet" Pacific islands. The population was 1,893 in the 2020 census, living in nine villages, with Tangkore being the largest. Teraina is renowned for its unique ecology: it hosts 60% of the global population of the endangered Rimitara lorikeet (Vini kuhlii), and was once home to the extinct Coues's gadwall. The island was sighted by American sealing captain Edmund Fanning in 1798, later annexed by Britain in 1889, and became part of Kiribati upon independence in 1979. The main export is copra.

By Plane

Teraina has a rough airstrip near Kaaitara, approximately 1,000 m in length, which may become temporarily unusable after heavy rain. Air Kiribati operates infrequent domestic flights from Cassidy International Airport (CXI) on Kiritimati and from Bonriki International Airport (TRW) on Tarawa. Flight schedules are subject to weather and demand — check well in advance.

By Car / Road

Two unpaved roads ring the island: an outer Beach Road and an inner Ring Road. There are no cars for hire. Transport within the island is by bicycle, on foot, or by boat along the canal system. A network of artificial canals is used for punting, rowing, and motorboats to move people and produce inland.

Bicycles are the most practical means of getting around the island's ring roads. The canal network is a unique feature — small boats traverse the canals through the coconut plantations and the peat bog. Walking the perimeter is feasible in a few hours. There are no taxis or ride-hailing services.

• Washington Lake: The only permanent freshwater lake in Kiribati. A unique ecosystem with marbled eels, tilapia, and migratory birds. The lake is surrounded by dense coconut forest and peat bog.

• Tangkore Village: The largest settlement, with a navigation light tower, radio masts, and the island council office.

• The canal system: Artificial canals cut through the peat bog, a distinctive adaptation to this unusual island geography.

• Rimitara lorikeet: These tiny, brilliantly coloured parrots feed on coconut palm nectar and can be seen flitting through the plantation. Teraina holds 60% of the global wild population.

• Bokikokiko: Kiribati's endemic reed-warbler, whose song gives it its name, is common on Teraina.

• Birdwatching: Teraina is one of the most important bird islands in the Pacific. Look for Rimitara lorikeets, red-footed boobies, little white terns, and migratory shorebirds.

• Canal punting: Take a small boat through the canal network to explore the interior bog and lake.

• Coconut plantation walk: Wander through the extensive coconut palm groves that cover much of the island.

• Swimming: The ocean side offers swimming, though be mindful of surf conditions.

Food is based on fish, coconut, breadfruit, and imported rice. There are no restaurants. Visitors eat at the island council guesthouse or with host families. Fresh seafood is plentiful — lagoon fish, reef fish, and occasionally turtle (though turtle egg collecting is permitted here, conservation-minded travellers may opt not to partake).

Freshwater is more abundant than on other Line Islands thanks to the lake and high rainfall. Rainwater tanks supplement supply. Coconut water is widely available. Imported soft drinks are sold in stores.

• Budget: The island council operates a basic guesthouse in Tangkore. Accommodation is simple with shared facilities, around 30–50 AUD per night. Bring mosquito repellent.
• Mid-range: No mid-range or upscale accommodation exists.
• Upscale: Not applicable.

Small village stores sell basic groceries and soft drinks. Copra is the main export but not available for tourists to buy. Handicrafts are limited. Visitors should bring all essentials.

• Tabuaeran (Fanning Island) (about 65 km southeast) — A large atoll with a deep lagoon, visited by cruise ships, with beautiful beaches.
• Kiritimati (Christmas Island) (further southeast) — The largest atoll in Kiribati, famous for bonefish fly-fishing, bird sanctuaries, and nuclear test history.
• Palmyra Atoll (north of Teraina) — A US territory with pristine coral reefs and research station (access restricted).