Line Islands

The Line Islands are a remote chain of 11 atolls stretching across the central Pacific Ocean, belonging to the Republic of Kiribati. They lie roughly 2,000–3,300 km east of the Gilbert Islands, Kiribati's main population centre, making them among the most isolated inhabited places on Earth. The islands sit in the UTC+14 time zone — the easternmost time zone in use anywhere in the world — meaning they are the first places on the planet to greet each new calendar day.

Only three of the atolls are inhabited: Kiritimati (Christmas Island), Tabuaeran (Fanning Island), and Teraina (Washington Island). The remaining atolls, including Palmyra Atoll and Kingman Reef (U.S. dependencies), Jarvis Island, Malden, Starbuck, Caroline, Flint, and Vostok, are uninhabited. The landscape is characterised by flat coral atolls, lagoons, coconut palms, and vast stretches of pristine ocean. The population of approximately 9,500 is concentrated on Kiritimati.

The Line Islands' appeal lies in their extreme remoteness, world-class bonefishing, birdwatching, and the novelty of being among the first places on Earth to experience each new day. Infrastructure is minimal, and visitors should be prepared for a genuinely off-the-grid experience.

The dry season from roughly November through March is the best time to visit, with calmer seas and less rainfall. The wet season runs from approximately April to October, bringing heavier rains and occasional storms, though temperatures remain warm year-round (26–32°C). Fishing enthusiasts often target the months from October through April for optimal bonefishing conditions on Kiritimati. Note that inter-island transport is extremely limited, so flexibility in travel plans is essential regardless of season.

Getting between the three inhabited atolls is extremely difficult. There are no regular inter-island flights or scheduled boat services. Transport between atolls typically requires chartering a boat, which can take days depending on sea conditions. The distances between the northern atolls are substantial — Kiritimati to Tabuaeran is roughly 400 km.

On Kiritimati, which is by far the largest and most developed of the atolls, transport is limited to a small number of vehicles, motorbikes, and boats. There are no paved roads in the conventional sense outside the main settlement areas. On Tabuaeran and Teraina, transport is primarily by foot and boat. There are no taxis, buses, or ride-hailing services on any of the islands.

• Kiritimati — The largest coral atoll in the world by land area and the main hub of the Line Islands, with the only airport, most accommodation, and the best-known bonefishing flats.
• Tabuaeran — A stunning coral atoll with a large central lagoon, offering a quieter alternative to Kiritimati with excellent snorkelling and a small, welcoming community.
• Teraina — The northernmost of the three inhabited atolls, known for its freshwater lake — a rarity on Pacific atolls — and its exceptionally remote, peaceful atmosphere.
• Tabwakea — The largest settlement on Kiritimati, serving as the main population centre with basic services and government offices.
• London — A village on the northern shore of Kiritimati, near the airport and some of the island's best fishing grounds.
• Banana — A small settlement on Kiritimati, situated along the lagoon shore.
• Poland — A small village on the southern part of Kiritimati, near productive fishing flats.
• Paris — A small settlement on Kiritimati, located on the western side of the atoll.

Food on the Line Islands is simple and heavily dependent on what can be grown locally or brought in by supply ship. Fresh fish (tuna, wahoo, parrotfish) and coconut are dietary staples. Breadfruit, pandanus fruit, and cultivated root vegetables such as taro are common. Canned goods and imported rice supplement the diet, especially when supply ships are delayed. There are very few restaurants; most visitors eat at their guesthouse or fishing lodge, where meals are typically included. Expect fish at most meals. Vegetarian options are limited but coconut-based dishes are available. Fresh water is scarce on the atolls, so conservation is important.

Kiribati culture is central to life on the Line Islands. Traditional dance, song, and storytelling remain important, with communal gatherings (te katei) forming the social fabric. Te Buki, a traditional stick dance, and various forms of string-figure art (maneaba culture) are practiced. National holidays including Independence Day (12 July) are celebrated with community feasts and performances. Christianity is the dominant religion, and church services on Sundays are a central community event. Woven mats, fans, and baskets are traditional crafts made from pandanus leaves.

• World-class bonefishing on Kiritimati — The atoll's extensive flats are internationally renowned for sight-casting to bonefish, giant trevally, and triggerfish. Guided fishing trips are the primary reason many visitors come to the Line Islands.
• Birdwatching — Kiritimati and the surrounding atolls host massive colonies of seabirds, including boobies, frigatebirds, terns, and petrels. The sheer abundance of birdlife is extraordinary.
• Being first into a new day — Standing on land in the UTC+14 time zone and knowing you are among the first people on Earth to experience each new day is a unique and memorable novelty.
• Snorkelling and diving in pristine lagoons — The clear, warm waters of the atoll lagoons offer excellent snorkelling with tropical fish, manta rays, and coral formations, particularly around Tabuaeran.
• Exploring uninhabited atolls — For the truly adventurous, expeditions to uninhabited atolls such as Flint or Vostok can occasionally be arranged, offering a glimpse of Pacific atolls in their natural state.