Tabwakea

Tabwakea is the largest settlement on Kiritimati (Christmas Island), the world's largest coral atoll by land area, in the Northern Line Islands of Kiribati. With a population of approximately 3,000, it serves as the administrative and commercial centre of the Line and Phoenix Islands. Tabwakea grew rapidly after the resettlement schemes moved people from the crowded Gilbert Islands to the less-populated Line Islands in the 1990s. The settlement is located on the northern coast of Kiritimati, along the main road connecting London and Banana. Kiritimati has a unique equatorial dry climate — despite its position near the Intertropical Convergence Zone, it receives surprisingly low rainfall (around 873 mm annually) and experiences regular droughts, exacerbated by its porous limestone geology. Temperatures remain steady between 24–30°C year-round.

By Plane

Cassidy International Airport (CXI) is located about 5 km east of Tabwakea, near Banana. Fiji Airways operates flights from Nadi (Fiji) via the weekly service. The airport is also served by occasional charter flights from Honolulu. A taxi from the airport to Tabwakea takes about 10 minutes.

By Car / Road

A sealed road connects Tabwakea to London (3 km west) and Banana (5 km east). The road continues south to Poland and the airport. There are a few taxis and private vehicles on the island. Driving is on the left.

Walking is feasible within Tabwakea as it is a compact settlement. Taxis can be hired for trips to London, Banana, or the airport. Bicycles are available from some guesthouses. There is no public bus service.

• Tabwakea Cable Landing Station: The Southern Cross NEXT submarine fibre-optic cable lands here, providing high-speed internet connectivity to the Line Islands (commissioned 2025).

• Kiritimati lagoon: The vast lagoon system extends south of Tabwakea, with salt flats, brine ponds, and tidal channels.

• London Village (3 km west): The historic port village founded by Father Emmanuel Rougier, with a small jetty and government offices.

• Bonefish fly-fishing: Kiritimati is world-renowned for bonefish flats fishing. The flats near Tabwakea offer excellent catch-and-release fishing for bonefish and giant trevally.

• Birdwatching: The island's restricted sanctuaries hold vast seabird colonies, including sooty terns, red-footed boobies, and Christmas shearwaters.

• Explore the lagoon shoreline: Walk or cycle the coastal track to observe the unique tidal flats and salt ponds.

• Visit the Ministry of Line and Phoenix Islands: The administrative office for the Line Islands is based here.

There are a few small eateries in Tabwakea serving fish, chicken, rice, and Chinese-influenced dishes. The nearby London village has a couple of basic restaurants. Most fresh food is local seafood; vegetables are mostly imported and limited. Try freshly caught reef fish cooked in coconut cream.

Fresh water is from rainwater tanks and desalination — it is safe but often slightly brackish. Bottled water and soft drinks are available. Coconut water is plentiful. Alcoholic beverages are limited to what is imported.

• Budget: Guesthouses in Tabwakea and London offer basic rooms from around 40–60 AUD per night. The Captain Cook Hotel in London is a well-known budget option.
• Mid-range: The Kiritimati Lodges near the airport offer more comfortable accommodation with air conditioning and meals, from around 100–150 AUD per night.
• Upscale: No upscale accommodation exists on Kiritimati.

Small general stores in Tabwakea sell basic groceries, toiletries, and hardware. London has a few more shops and a post office. There is no handicraft market — local artisans sell woven items informally. Supplies are limited and depend on infrequent cargo ships.

• London (3 km west, 5 min by taxi) — The historic port village with the main jetty and government offices.
• Banana (5 km east, 10 min by taxi) — The settlement nearest Cassidy International Airport, originally a nuclear test camp.
• Poland (about 15 km south across the lagoon) — A small village with a Catholic church dedicated to Saint Stanislaus.
• Kiritimati bird sanctuaries — Restricted-access zones at Cook Island, Motu Tabu, and North West Point are home to millions of seabirds (permits required).