Corniglia

Corniglia is the middle and highest of the five villages of the Cinque Terre National Park, on the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy. Alone among the five, it is not built at the water's edge: the village sits on a rocky promontory about 100 m above the sea, ringed by terraced vineyards, with small pebble coves below at either side. Its railway station lies down by the coast, so reaching the village means climbing the Lardarina — a brick stairway of 33 flights (about 382 steps) — or taking the shuttle bus or the road. Quieter and more local in feel than its neighbours, Corniglia is a maze of narrow caruggi (alleyways) and terraced viewpoints, and like the rest of the Cinque Terre it forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage cultural landscape.

The only true way to enjoy the Cinque Terre at its best is by foot. On the contrary, by foot or by train, otherwise by foot and by boat. The Genoa - La Spezia line stops in all the villages along the coast and the boats make regular shuttle runs between La Spezia, Lerici, Portovenere, Levanto and Sestri Levante. And then by foot, through the Mediterranean bush, between heaven and sea. In fact, the zone of the Cinque Terre is crossed by a knitted mesh of footpaths. The coastal footpath links all five villages, allowing you to be able to hike from the first village to the last village in five hours. Therefore, it could also be ideal to do a single hike or perhaps the more binding along the crest or towards the Sanctuaries: routes or footpaths are numerous, delightful and interesting; they which give a general idea of the area and also offer a brief insight into its exceptional cultural and natural beauty. Taking the local commuter/milk trains (they used to deliver milk and mail to the cities) to Vernazza from Genova or La Spezia is a magnificent experience. You will ride along the cliffs, overlooking turquoise waters and olive trees. Tunnel after tunnel, the air cools and heats in the sun.

Corniglia is perched atop a promontory about 100 m above the sea. From the railway station you climb the Lardarina, a long brick stairway of 33 flights (about 382 steps), or take the shuttle bus or the vehicular road up to the village. The village stretches along Via Fieschi, lined with small shops and bars; narrow lanes branch off towards the sea. A small bus sometimes runs from the station to the town centre.

Church of San Pietro. Corniglia's parish church, dedicated to St. Peter, was begun in 1334 in the Ligurian Gothic style and incorporates walls of an earlier 11th-century chapel on the same site. Its marble rose window and striped façade are among the finest church details in the Cinque Terre.

When you arrive at the train station at Corniglia, there are two ways to reach the centre of town: the shuttle bus (up and to the right of the station) or the Lardarina stairway on foot (to the left). The stairway is well maintained — 33 flights, about 382 steps — and climbs through the vineyards with many stops offering picturesque views of Manarola, the next village to the south. When you reach the top of the steps, turn left to head into the centre of town. Turn left and walk up the small street (Via Fieschi) that winds through the town, with many small stores and bars with local products. Gelateria Artigianle is well worth the stop for a taste of Gelato to refresh you from the long climb. Enjoy the Miele (honey flavored). Stop by and have fresh anchovies and wine with Mario, the owner of enoteca I'll Pirun. The music here is wonderful blend of jazz and blues. Continue on, and turn left past the church, and up the steps for the best views of Manarola.

Small trattorias and cafés along Via Fieschi serve Ligurian staples — trofie al pesto, anchovies, focaccia, and the day's catch. Corniglia is also known for its gelaterie: the artisanal gelato, especially the honey (miele) flavour made with local honey, is a well-earned reward after the climb up from the station.

Bars and enoteche in the village centre pour Cinque Terre DOC white wine and the sweet Sciacchetrà passito, both made from grapes grown on the terraces around Corniglia. A glass on one of the terraced viewpoints, looking out over the sea, is the classic way to end an afternoon.

Corniglia has a handful of small guesthouses, affittacamere (room rentals), and a hilltop hostel rather than large hotels; staying overnight means near-empty lanes once the day-trippers leave. Book well ahead for summer, or use La Spezia or Levanto as a cheaper base with easy train access.

As in the other villages, you can find all the typical and touristic products.

• Manarola — the next village south, a short train ride or a scenic vineyard walk, with its photogenic harbour and 1338 church.
• Vernazza — the next village north, with the only natural harbour in the Cinque Terre and a ruined castle; the Corniglia–Vernazza coastal trail is one of the prettiest sections.
• Cinque Terre National Park — the trail network, coastal ferry (which does not stop at harbourless Corniglia), and the other four villages, including Riomaggiore and Monterosso al Mare.
• La Spezia — the gateway city on the main rail line, with onward trains to Pisa, Genoa, and Florence.