Safed

Safed (Hebrew: צפת Tsfat) is a city in the Upper Galilee region of northern Israel, and one of the oldest centers for Jewish learning and spirituality. Located at an altitude of 900 meters (2,953 ft), it is the highest city in Israel. It is the birthplace of Lurianic Kabbalah and one of the four holiest cities in Judaism, along with Hebron, Tiberias, and Jerusalem. The city grew to prominence in the late 15th century when it became a refuge for Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition.

In more recent times, Safed has developed into a summer holiday resort popular with Israelis and foreign visitors, thanks to its beautiful setting surrounded by pine forests, agreeable mild summers, and its thriving artists' colony. The old city is built in a circular fashion around a hilltop, with new neighborhoods on adjacent hills.

Climate is pleasant in summer (warm but not hot due to altitude) and cold in winter, with occasional snow. Summer is the peak tourist season. The International Klezmer Festival in mid-August draws tens of thousands of visitors.

By Plane

Ben Gurion Airport (TLV) is about 150 km south. Take a train to Karmiel station, then bus 361/364 to Safed (50 minutes). Haifa Airport (HFA) is closer but has limited service.

By Train

Israel Railways reaches as close as Karmiel station (opened 2017). From there, buses 361 and 364 run to Safed every 20 minutes combined (50-minute ride). Bus 361 starts in Haifa. This is the recommended way to reach Safed from Ben Gurion Airport.

By Car / Road

From Haifa: approximately 80 km (1.5 hours) via Route 85. From Tiberias: approximately 45 km (50 min) via Route 85 and Route 89. From Tel Aviv: approximately 150 km (2 hours) via Route 6 and Route 85. Bus 450 from Tiberias runs every 40 minutes (50-min ride). Buses 511/23 from Rosh Pina run every 30 minutes (15-min ride).

The old city, the main destination for visitors, is accessible only on foot — a maze of pedestrian alleys with few street signs. The broad "Olei HaGardom" staircase built by the British during the 1936–9 riots is the best orientation point, equipped with signs and maps. Most synagogues and Jewish sites are north of the staircase; most art galleries are to the south. Local bus company Nateeve Express runs lines around town. Taxis take a set fare for any destination within town.

Jewish Religious Sites

• Ari Ashkenazi Synagogue — In memory of Rabbi Isaac Luria, normally open on weekdays with an ornate ark.
• Ari Sepharadi Synagogue — Considered the oldest synagogue in the city, open for prayers on the Sabbath only.
• Abuhav Synagogue — Built in the 1490s according to Kabbalistic beliefs; the most famous synagogue in Safed.
• Yosef Karo Synagogue — Established in the 16th century, named for the author of the Shulchan Aruch.
• Ancient Cemetery — Burial place of the Arizal, Rabbi Joseph Karo, and other famous rabbis.
• Cave of Shem and Ever — Tradition holds this was the yeshiva of Shem (son of Noah) and his great-grandson Ever.

Other Sites

• Crusader Fortress (Citadel) — At the top of the Safed hill with spectacular views of Mount Meron, the Sea of Galilee, and beyond. Bring a flashlight for the cave/hall.
• Mount Canaan — The very best view in Safed, including ancient Safed itself.
• HaMeiri Museum for Safed History, 158 Keren Hayesod Street, +972 4-6971307
• Museum of Hungarian Jewry
• The Red Khan — A significant Mameluk palace

Art Museums and Galleries

• Artist Colony — In the Old City including the Exhibition Centre in the former Big Mosque

• Frenkel Frenel Museum — Former home of major Israeli-French artist Yitzhak Frenkel

• Beit Castel & Gallery — Former home of Moshe Castel, now a gallery of Safed artists

• Numerous small private galleries with cafés and tourist shops

• Attend the International Klezmer Festival (mid-August) — free concerts in the old city's ancient streets

• Explore the artist colony and galleries throughout the Old City

• Study Kabbalah at Ascent of Sefad or informal yeshiva classes

• Take guided tours through the Tourist Information Center (Rehov Alkabetz 17, +972 50 893-9042)

• Participate in workshops: tefillin writing, challah baking, candle making

Safed's food scene reflects its mixed religious character. Kosher restaurants are the norm.

• Café Isaac — Artisan coffee and pastries in the Artists' Quarter. Light meals ₪30–50.
• HaAri 8 — Traditional Middle Eastern food near the main synagogues. Mains ₪50–80.
• Rimon — Dairy restaurant popular with locals and tourists. Mains ₪40–70.

Kosher dietary laws are observed throughout. Many restaurants are dairy-only or meat-only. Shabbat closures are strictly observed — most restaurants close Friday afternoon through Saturday evening.

Safed has a modest café scene. Arabic coffee and fresh juices are available in the Old City. Wine from Galilee region wineries is served at some restaurants. The city is not known for nightlife, though summer brings more activity.

• Budget: Ascent of Safed — Guesthouse with dorms and private rooms. Dorms from ₪80, doubles from ₪300.
• Mid-range: The Ruth Rimonim Inn — Boutique hotel in a restored building. Rooms from ₪500–800.
• Upscale: Mitzpe HaYamim Spa Hotel (nearby) — Luxury spa resort with Galilee views. Rooms from ₪1,200–2,000.

After Jerusalem, Safed is probably the best place in Israel for Jewish cultural and religious items. A narrow cobblestone street is lined with open-air shops selling menorahs, mezuzahs, Seder plates, and Shabbat candlesticks.

• Nerot Tzfat (Safed Candles) — Beautiful candles in every size, shape, and color, plus wax scenes including David & Goliath and Noah's Ark.
• Dreams and Visions Gallery, Tet-Vav St. #7 — Glassblowing demonstrations and watercolor paintings inspired by Jewish mysticism.
• SouzaKohn Gallery, 51 Bar Yochi St. — Contemporary prints, drawings, and oils.
• Seek out private artist galleries throughout the Old City for unique artwork.

• Rosh Pinna (15 km, 20 min) — Charming historic moshav with galleries and restaurants
• Tiberias (45 km, 50 min) — Sea of Galilee resort with hot springs and religious sites
• Kiryat Shmona (30 km, 30 min) — Gateway to the Hula Valley and Upper Galilee nature
• Karmiel (30 km, 30 min) — Regional hub with train connections
• Hula Valley Nature Reserve (40 km, 40 min) — Premier birdwatching site