Paldiski

Paldiski is Estonia's westernmost town, perched at the tip of the Pakri Peninsula on the Gulf of Finland. With a population of just over 3,000, it has one of the most unusual histories of any Baltic settlement. The town was founded as a deep-water port by Peter the Great in the 18th century — the name Paldiski is an Estonian rendering of Swedish "Ålandsudd" (through the German "Baltischport"). It served as a minor Imperial Russian naval base until Estonia's independence in 1918.

The town's most transformative period came after World War II, when the Soviet Baltic Fleet turned Paldiski into a top-secret nuclear submarine training centre. A nuclear reactor was built to train submarine crews, and the entire peninsula became a closed military zone — off-limits even to most Estonians. The town was surrounded by barbed wire, and its population peaked at over 10,000 Soviet officers and their families. When the last Russian troops left in August 1994, they took everything they could: pipes, wiring, fittings — leaving behind a ghost town of crumbling apartment blocks, abandoned barracks, and a decommissioned reactor.

Today, Paldiski is slowly reinventing itself. The port has been modernised as a commercial cargo and ferry terminal (with regular sailings to Kapellskär, Sweden), and the town is increasingly visited by travellers drawn to its eerie Soviet ruins, dramatic coastal cliffs, and windswept beaches. It is also the starting point for the scenic Pakri Peninsula hiking trails. The best time to visit is late spring through early autumn; winter winds along the exposed coast can be punishing.

By Plane

Tallinn Airport (TLL) is 55 km east — a 45-minute taxi ride (€40–55). From the airport, take Tram 4 to central Tallinn then the train from Balti Jaam to Paldiski.

By Train

The Paldiski railway line terminates at the town's station, a short walk from the harbour. Elron trains from Balti Jaam (Tallinn) run hourly on weekdays, every 2 hours on weekends. The journey takes 1 hour 5 minutes. A one-way ticket costs €3.50–5 via the Elron app.

By Car / Road

From Tallinn, follow the E265 south-west through Saue and Keila, then the road continues 25 km to Paldiski. Total distance 50 km, drive time 45 minutes. Roads are well maintained. Parking is free and available throughout the town.

Paldiski's central area — the harbour, main square, and the abandoned Soviet residential blocks — is walkable on foot. The hiking trails along the Pakri cliffs and the Pakri Islands (accessible by small boat in summer) require more time. A bicycle is useful for exploring the peninsula.

• Pakri Lighthouse (old) — A white stone lighthouse built in 1889 on the western cliff of the Pakri Peninsula, offering panoramic views over the Baltic Sea. Accessible via a 2 km hiking trail from the town.

• Abandoned Soviet naval complex — The derelict buildings, empty swimming pools, and decaying barracks of the submarine base are a surreal attraction. Many are dangerous to enter; photograph from outside. The reactor building itself is fenced and guarded.

• Paldiski Orthodox Church — A small, restored Russian Orthodox church (18th century) near the harbour — one of the few pre-Soviet buildings still in use.

• Muuli Promenade — A restored wooden waterfront walkway along the harbour with benches, a small beach, and views of the Pakri Islands and departing ferries.

• Pakri Peninsula coastal cliffs — 3 km of limestone and sandstone cliffs rising up to 20 metres above the sea, with hiking paths, wildflower meadows, and seabird colonies.

• Coastal cliff hiking — A marked 10 km hiking trail loops around the tip of the Pakri Peninsula, passing both lighthouses, sea caves, and abandoned military bunkers.

• Ferry to Kapellskär, Sweden — A daily car ferry operated by DFDS connects Paldiski to Sweden (8 hours); day-trippers can book foot passenger passage. It's occasionally a cheap and unusual way to spend a day at sea.

• Pakri Islands boat trip — In summer, local operators offer 2-hour boat trips around the uninhabited Pakri Islands (Väike-Pakri and Suur-Pakri), which were settled by Estonian Swedes until 1944.

• Urban exploration photography — The Soviet ruins are a magnet for urban explorers, but respect warning signs — some structures are unstable.

• Restaurant Mere (harbour-side) — The town's best restaurant, serving Estonian and European dishes with an emphasis on fish and seafood. Mains €8–14. Try the pike-perch fillet with dill potatoes.
• Pakri Café (near the station) — Simple café with soups, sandwiches, and coffee. Lunch sets from €4.
• Sadama Grill (port area) — Summer-only kiosk serving grilled sausages, burgers, and soft drinks.

The harbour restaurant has a basic beer selection. For a proper bar scene, you'll need to head back to Tallinn.

• Pakri Guesthouse (Pakri Street) — A small guesthouse with 5 rooms, simple but clean (doubles from €40). Shared kitchen.
• Paldiski Hostel (town centre) — An 8-bed dormitory and 3 private rooms in a renovated apartment block (bunks from €15, doubles from €35). Very basic but the only budget option.
• For more comfortable accommodation, the best bet is to day-trip from Tallinn.

Paldiski has a small Konsum supermarket and a few convenience shops. A small souvenir stall at the harbour sells Pakri-themed T-shirts and postcards in summer.

• Keila Waterfall (40 km east, 30 min by car) — One of Estonia's widest waterfalls, with picnic areas and easy access from the parking area.
• Laulasmaa (35 km east, 30 min by car) — A coastal resort with a sandy beach and the Laulasmaa Spa Hotel for a relaxing afternoon.
• Tallinn (50 km east, 45 min by car or 1 hr by train) — Estonia's capital and its UNESCO World Heritage Old Town.
• Vasalemma (30 km south, 25 min by car) — The Vasalemma limestone quarry and the ruins of a Gothic chapel in a pastoral setting.