Keelung

Keelung (基隆) is a major port city in northern Taiwan, situated on the northeast coast about 30 km east of Taipei. It is the island's second-largest seaport (after Kaohsiung) and a crucial hub for cargo shipping, naval operations, cruise ships, and ferry connections to the outlying islands of Matsu and Keelung Islet. The city's nickname is the "Rainy Port" (雨港) — Keelung receives over 200 rainy days per year, with the northeast monsoon from October to March bringing near-constant drizzle and fog.

The city developed around its natural deep-water harbour, which was used by the Spanish (who built Fort San Salvador in 1626), the Dutch, the Qing dynasty, and the Japanese. Keelung was heavily fortified during the Japanese era, leaving a ring of batteries, tunnels, and bunkers on the surrounding hills. Today it is a working port city with a gritty, authentic character distinct from Taipei's polished modernity. The centrepiece of the city is the vast Miaokou Night Market, widely considered one of Taiwan's best.

Keelung City administers a small area; the county-level division is surrounded by New Taipei City's northeastern districts.

By TRA train: Keelung Station is the terminus of the TRA Western Line branch from Taipei. Express trains run every 20–40 minutes from Taipei Main Station, taking 45–55 minutes (NT$60–90). The station is a short walk from the harbour and Miaokou Night Market.

By bus: Buses from Taipei (Kuo-Kuang 1813, other lines) run frequently from Taipei Main Station and, crucially, continue to operate after the TRA stops (midnight onwards). Travel time about 1 hour.

By car: National Highway 1 connects Taipei to Keelung in about 30 minutes; the Harbour Road (Gangxi Street) circles the port.

By sea: Ferries connect Keelung to Matsu (10 hours overnight, several weekly sailings) and Keelung Islet (seasonal tours). International cruise ships call at the Keelung Cruise Terminal.

Keelung city centre is compact. The train station, the harbour, and Miaokou Night Market are within 10–15 minutes' walk of each other. Local buses serve the outer districts (Zhongzheng, Nuannuan, Qidu) and coastal areas. Taxis are cheap and plentiful; a trip across the city rarely exceeds NT$200. YouBike is available but the hilly terrain makes cycling demanding.

• Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) — The core of Keelung's identity. Hundreds of stalls forming an L-shaped lane around the Dianji Temple (奠濟宮) at the centre. Open daily from late morning to well past midnight. More than just a food market — the atmosphere is the attraction.

• Heping Island Park (和平島公園) — A scenic coastal park at the northern tip of Keelung, featuring spectacular sea-eroded rock formations (the "turtle rocks"), natural tidal pools, and a historic Spanish fort site. Good swimming and sunbathing in summer. NT$80 admission.

• Keelung Fortress (基隆要塞司令部) — A well-preserved Japanese-era military headquarters building, now a museum of local military history. The nearby Fortress Command building is also open to the public.

• Ershawan Fort (二沙灣砲台) — A Qing/Japanese-era coastal battery on a hill overlooking the harbour entrance. The massive gun emplacements, ammunition bunkers, and tunnel network are free to explore.

• Zhongzheng Park (中正公園) — A large hillside park with a giant Kuan Yin (Guanyin) statue prominently visible from the harbour. The statue is climbable and offers panoramic views of the city and port.

• National Museum of Marine Science and Technology (國立海洋科技博物館) — A large, modern aquarium and marine science museum in the Badouzi area, with hands-on exhibits, a tidepool touch tank, and a 3D theatre.

• Eat at Miaokou Night Market — This is the city's primary activity. Plan to arrive hungry and sample 5–7 different stalls across a few hours; each stall specialises in one or two dishes.

• Take a Keelung Islet (基隆嶼) boat tour — Seasonal tours (April–October) run from the harbour to this uninhabited volcanic islet 5 km offshore, known for its lighthouse and dramatic sea cliffs. Allow 2–3 hours.

• Explore the harbour by ferry — Short harbour cruises depart from the main ferry pier, offering a different perspective on the city and its ring of fortifications.

• Hike the Tunnels of Keelung — The hills around the harbour are laced with Japanese-era military tunnels; the Dawulun Fort (大武崙砲台) trail network is the most extensive and rewards climbers with views over the entire bay.

• Cycle the north coast — The coastal bike path from Keelung to Fulong (New Taipei) runs for about 30 km along dramatic sea cliffs and past small fishing harbours.

Miaokou Night Market is the destination. Each stall is numbered; the most famous include:

• Stall 19: Dingbian Cuo (鼎邊趖) — A Keelung speciality: a savoury rice-noodle soup with shredded pork, shrimp, and vegetables, named for the technique of spreading rice batter along the edge of a wok. NT$60–80.
• Stall 16: Seafood tempura (天婦羅) — Large, thick fishcake patties deep-fried to order, served with pickled cucumber. NT$40.
• Stall 7: Braised pork rice (滷肉飯) — Rich, dark minced pork over rice, with a poached egg on request. NT$35–50.
• Stall 43: Bubble tea (泡泡冰) — A Keelung-born creation: a dense, silky shaved-ice dessert blended with fresh fruit or taro paste. NT$50–70.
• Fresh seafood along the harbour — Several restaurants on Gangxi Street serve live seafood in glass tanks — choose your fish, crab, or prawn, and they will steam or grill it. Prices vary by catch.
• Beef noodle soup — > TODO: specific recommendations for beef noodle restaurants in Keelung.

Keelung is a drinker's town. Miaokou has stalls selling beer, Taiwan Kaoliang liquor shots, and fresh fruit juices (the passionfruit and sugar-cane juice is excellent). The harbourfront has a few small bars catering to cruise passengers and sailors. For craft beer, Keelung Beer House (not to be confused with the name of the brand) in the city centre offers a rotating selection of Taiwanese microbrews.

Keelung City:

• Budget inns and guesthouses around Keelung Station: NT$1,000–2,000 for a double.
• Business hotels in the city centre: NT$2,000–3,500. The Evertrust Hotel (長榮桂冠酒店) is the upscale option, directly overlooking the harbour (NT$4,000–6,000).
• Waterfront hotels near the cruise terminal cater to cruise stopover passengers and are slightly more expensive.

Nearby Badouzi:

• A few mid-range hotels near the marine museum, about 15 minutes from the city centre.

• Seafood products — Dried fish, squid jerky, and fish floss are available at shops near the harbour and the night market.
• Keelung-style pineapple cakes — A local variation of the classic Taiwan souvenir.
• Maritime memorabilia — Ship models and nautical-themed crafts near the cruise terminal.
• Local snacks — Vacuum-packed ready-to-eat versions of night-market classics available at stalls that offer takeaway.

• Taipei — 45 minutes by train. Taiwan's capital and the most common onward destination.
• New Taipei (Jiufen, Jinguashi, Pingxi) — The mountain towns of the northeast coast are 30–60 minutes by bus from Keelung.
• Yilan — 90 minutes by train along the dramatic northeast coast (the Yilan line).
• Hualien — 2.5 hours by express train through the Caoling Tunnel to the east coast.