Eskişehir

Eskişehir is a vibrant, progressive city of nearly 900,000 in western Anatolia, 228 km west of Ankara and 144 km east of Bursa. Its name means "old town," yet most of the city is strikingly modern — a product of the 20th-century transformation that swept through Anatolian cities when boulevards replaced Ottoman alleyways and automobile manufacturing supplanted traditional trades. What makes Eskişehir distinctive among Turkish cities is its large student population, drawn by three major universities (Anadolu, ETI, and Osmangazi), which together enrol some 90,000 students and give the city a youthful, cosmopolitan atmosphere unusual for interior Turkey.

The compact old quarter of Odunpazarı survives as a cluster of colourfully renovated Ottoman timber-frame houses surrounding the 16th-century Kurşunlu Mosque complex, which now houses craft workshops and small museums. This historic core is offset by the modern centre at Köprübaşı, where the Porsuk River divides the city, and the lively Adalar ("islands") riverside strip. The city's progressive reputation dates to 19th-century arrivals from Crimea and the Balkans, who supported Atatürk's secular reforms — a tradition sustained by the universities' liberal culture.

Eskişehir's unique claim to fame is meerschaum (lületaşı), a white mineral found in the surrounding province that can be carved into intricate shapes, most famously tobacco pipes. The Meerschaum Museum in the Kurşunlu complex celebrates this tradition. The city is also known for its tram system — the only comprehensive urban tram network in Anatolia outside Istanbul — which connects the old quarter, modern centre, and railway station efficiently.

Spring (April to May) and early autumn (September to October) offer the most pleasant conditions, with mild temperatures and manageable rainfall. Summer (June to August) is hot and dry, with temperatures reaching 35°C, but the riverside Adalar district provides evening relief. Winter (December to February) is cold with occasional snowfall, though the city functions normally. The Eskişehir International Film Festival (typically in autumn) and the Meerschaum Festival bring cultural events throughout the year. The old quarter of Odunpazarı is attractive in any season.

Eskişehir sits at the fork of Turkey's YHT high-speed railway network. From Istanbul, 11 high-speed trains daily take 3 hours; from Ankara, 13 trains take 90 minutes; and from Konya, 3 trains take 90 minutes. An overnight train calls at Eskişehir at 01:00 westbound and 04:00 eastbound. The modern railway station is 3 km northwest of downtown, connected by tram. Buses from Istanbul take 5-6 hours (Metro Turizm, Pamukkale, FlixBus); from Bursa, 2 hours 15 minutes via İnegöl. The otogar is 3 km northeast of the centre, linked by tram. Within the city, the comprehensive tram network (Lines 1, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) covers all major areas, supplemented by dolmuşes, public buses, and even traditional horse-drawn carriages (fayton).

• Eskişehir — the vibrant university city with Ottoman old quarter, meerschaum crafts, and riverside café culture
• Odunpazarı — the colourfully restored historic district with Ottoman houses and the Kurşunlu Mosque complex
• Sivrihisar — a historic town with a Seljuk mosque and Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque) with unique wooden ceiling
• Mihalgaaziç — a small town with Ottoman-era buildings
• Çifteler — a town on the Sakarya River
• Mahmudiye — a rural town in the eastern steppe
• Beylikova — a village with traditional stone houses
• İnönü — a small town near the Bursa border
• Seyitgazi — a town with the tomb of a warrior saint
• Alpu — a farming town in the eastern steppe
• Han — a rural village in the western highlands
• Sarıcakaya — a village near the Sakarya River gorge

Eskişehir's food scene reflects its student population — diverse, affordable, and innovative. The city is famous for çibörek, a crispy deep-fried half-moon pastry filled with spiced minced meat, a Tatar heritage dish brought by Crimean refugees. Lületaşı-shaped chocolates and sweets make popular souvenirs. The riverside Adalar district has numerous cafés, restaurants, and meyhane (wine houses). The old quarter around Odunpazarı features traditional lokantas serving mantı, pide, and regional dishes. Bolulu Hasan Usta is a popular café chain with outlets near the railway station and in the old quarter. Vegetarian and vegan options are more plentiful here than in most Anatolian cities, thanks to the student clientele.

Eskişehir's cultural scene is shaped by its universities and progressive traditions. The Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM), housed in a striking sustainable-wood building, features contemporary Turkish and international art. The Cartoon Museum, Meerschaum Museum, Typewriter Museum, Museum of Woodworking, and Wax Museum all cluster around the Kurşunlu Mosque complex, creating a unique museum quarter. The Eskişehir International Film Festival brings independent cinema to the city annually. Traditional crafts include meerschaum carving, glass-blowing (demonstrated at the Glass Arts Workshop), and ebru (paper marbling). The city's Tatar heritage is celebrated through food festivals and cultural events.

• Stroll through the colourfully renovated Ottoman houses of Odunpazarı, visiting the cluster of museums around Kurşunlu Mosque
• Watch meerschaum carving demonstrations at the Meerschaum Museum
• Ride the tram through the city, connecting the old quarter, modern centre, and riverside
• Sample çibörek at a traditional Tatar café, the city's signature dish
• Explore the Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM) for contemporary Turkish art
• Cruise the Porsuk River by boat through the Adalar district at sunset