Pemba North

Pemba North is the northern half of Pemba Island, part of the Zanzibar Archipelago in the Indian Ocean. Known locally as the "Green Island," Pemba is hillier, greener, and far less visited than its sister island Unguja (Zanzibar). The north of the island is particularly lush, with ancient clove plantations, dense mangrove forests, and some of the best diving in East Africa on the pristine eastern reef drop-offs. Wete serves as the regional capital and the island's main port. Pemba North is the quieter, more traditional side of the Zanzibar Archipelago, where the pace of life is slow, the beaches are uncrowded, and the diving rivals anywhere in the Indian Ocean. The island's east coast features dramatic coral cliffs and steep drop-offs into the Pemba Channel, while the west coast offers sheltered coves and dhow-building villages.

June to October and January to February are the best months — drier and cooler, with ideal conditions for diving. The long rains (March to May) make roads very muddy and many lodges close during this period. The short rains (November to December) are lighter and still manageable for travel.

A paved road runs from Wete north to Konde and Micheweni. Dala-dala minibuses connect Wete to the other towns on the island. For the diving sites and remote east-coast beaches, a hired 4WD vehicle or taxi is necessary. The island is small enough that the main road from Wete to Micheweni takes approximately 1–2 hours by car.

• Wete — the main town and port of Pemba Island, with a lively market, the harbour front, and colonial-era buildings.
• Konde — a small fishing village on the north coast with excellent diving, the wreck of the MV Swahili, and the Misali Island day trip.
• Micheweni — the northernmost village on Pemba, with a remote, wild coast, a lighthouse, and the starting point for Njao Gap diving.

Pemba's food is distinctly Zanzibari: pili-pili (chilli) seafood, coconut-based curries, biryani, and ugali with fish. Cloves are everywhere — the scent of fresh cloves perfumes the air across the island. Pemba is famous for its prawns (the largest in East Africa) and octopus curry. Street stalls sell kashata (coconut and peanut brittle) and freshly fried fish. The island's spice plantations produce cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and black pepper.

Pemba is predominantly Muslim and more conservative than the tourist coast of Unguja (Zanzibar). The Mwaka Kogwa (Nowruz festival in July or August) is celebrated with particular enthusiasm, featuring ritualised mock fights and communal feasting. Clove harvest season (July to December) is a major economic and social event. The annual Mkoani Dhow Race (August) draws participants from across the archipelago, though it is officially held in Pemba South.

• Diving the Pemba Channel — the east coast drop-off is one of Africa's top dive sites, with drift dives, pristine coral gardens, and encounters with hammerheads, reef sharks, and sea turtles.
• Misali Island day trip — a marine reserve off the west coast with excellent snorkelling, powdery white sand, and sea turtles in a protected lagoon.
• Clove plantation walk — walk through centuries-old clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg plantations around Wete, with guides explaining the harvest and processing.
• Njao Gap drift dive — world-class drift diving off the northern tip of Pemba between the two main islands, suitable for experienced divers.