Dulan

Dulan (都蘭) is a small coastal village on Highway 11 in Donghe Township, Taitung County, on Taiwan's wild and beautiful east coast. The wider township takes in the indigenous Amis communities whose ancestral name for the area, Fafukod (馬武窟), means "fishing by net" in the Amis language — a reminder that the rhythms of the sea have shaped this place for centuries. Today Dulan is best known as a laid-back surf and arts town, a magnet for travellers who want Pacific waves, mountain backdrops and a slow, creative pace far removed from Taiwan's crowded west coast.

The village sits between the steep green slopes of Dulan Mountain (都蘭山, 1,190 m) and the open Pacific, with most of life strung along the highway. The old Hsintung Sugar Factory — a Japanese-era refinery revived by a community of artists — anchors the local cultural scene, while surf hostels and seaside cafés give the place an easy, bohemian feel. Beyond the village, the coast unfolds with recreation areas, monkey-feeding rest stops and the curious "Water Flows Upward" optical-illusion site.

The east coast has a warm, humid subtropical climate. Autumn and spring (roughly October–December and March–May) are the most comfortable times to visit, with pleasant temperatures and good surf. Summer is hot and humid, and the months from roughly July to October bring the risk of typhoons sweeping in off the Pacific — check forecasts before travelling in that window.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Taitung Airport (TTT), serving domestic flights from Taipei and outlying islands. The airport is south of Dulan along the coast; onward travel is by taxi or pre-arranged transfer, as there is no direct public service from the airport to the village.

By Train

The closest railway service is at Taitung on the South-Link and Taitung lines. From Taitung station, continue north to Dulan by bus along Highway 11 or by car.

By Car / Road

Dulan is reached by road via Highway 11 (the coastal route) or Highway 23 (the inland route). It lies a short drive north of Taitung city along the scenic coastal highway. The drive itself is one of the appeals of the trip — Highway 11 hugs the Pacific with sweeping ocean views. Buses run along Highway 11 connecting Taitung with the east-coast townships; check current schedules locally as services are infrequent.

Dulan is compact and the village core can be walked end to end. To reach beaches, recreation areas and the sugar factory comfortably, most visitors rent a scooter or bring a car — distances along the highway add up quickly and public transport is sparse. Hostels can often help arrange scooter rental. Cycling is pleasant for shorter hops in good weather. There are no metro or tuk-tuk services here; ride-hailing is limited, so plan transport in advance.

• Dulan Mountain (都蘭山) — A sacred peak rising to 1,190 m (3,900 ft), significant in Amis tradition and a fine hiking objective with views over the coast.
• Dulan Site (都蘭遺址), Yuanshan Industry Road — An archaeological site first excavated during the Japanese colonial era, with prehistoric stone remains.
• Dulan Hsintung Sugar Factory (都蘭新東糖廠文化園區), 61 Dulan Village (south side of the village on Hwy 11), ☏ +886 89531212 — Open 08:30–18:00. A former private sugar refinery built under Japanese rule, damaged in the Second World War and later revived by artists with support from the Taitung County Government. Today it houses a handicraft shop, a coffee house and guest accommodation, and hosts live music.
• Water Flows Upward Recreational Area (水往上流遊憩區), ☏ +886 89281530 — A roadside spot famous for the optical illusion of water appearing to run uphill.
• Chintsun Recreation Area (金樽遊憩區), No.11, Qili Bridge, ☏ +886 8 9841520 — A stretch of protected parkland by the sea, good for coastal walks.
• Dengxian Bridge Recreation Area (登仙橋遊憩區), Highway 23 — A rest area popular for watching and feeding the wild monkeys that live nearby.

Surfing is Dulan's signature activity — the village is one of Taiwan's best-known surf bases, with consistent Pacific swell. Several hostels offer lessons and board rental for beginners and improvers alike. Beyond the waves, hike Dulan Mountain, drive the coastal stretches of Highway 11, watch monkeys at Dengxian Bridge, and catch live music and art events at the Hsintung Sugar Factory, which has long been the cultural heart of the village. The relaxed café scene makes Dulan a place to slow down as much as to do.

Dulan's food scene mixes Taiwanese staples with Western-leaning café cooking aimed at the surf and traveller crowd. Many places keep limited days or hours, so check before setting out.

• Donghe Bun Shop (東河包子), No.420, Nandonghe, ☏ +886 8 9896369 — Open 06:00–19:00. A famous local shop selling steamed buns; a regional institution and an easy budget bite.
• I'm Playing (我在玩-玩冰箱), No.188, Longchang, ☏ +886 960706209 — Open 08:30–16:00, closed Tuesday. Specialises in brunch.
• Dulan Cape Cafe (都蘭海角咖啡), No.14–10, 47th Neighborhood, ☏ +886 903262923 — Open 11:30–17:00, closed Monday and Friday. A café serving Western-style dishes with sea views.
• Marino's Kitchen (馬利諾廚房), No. 436-3 Dulan Village (Hwy 11, on the north side of town across the bridge), ☏ +886 89531848 — Open 10:00–18:00. Fresh-baked bread and homemade sauces, with fresh pasta meals (including soup or salad, bread and a drink) on Saturdays and Sundays.

• Coffee Box Dulan (都蘭咖啡車廂), No. 1, Qianqiao Industry Road, ☏ +886 988779333 — Open Saturday and Sunday 13:00–17:00. A quirky little café set inside a repurposed train carriage.

The Hsintung Sugar Factory's coffee house is the village's social hub, especially on live-music nights. Tap water in Taiwan is generally not drunk unboiled; stick to bottled or boiled water.

• Budget: Donghe Surf Shop & Hostel (東河民宿), No.60, Nandonghe, ☏ +886 965665993 — Surf-focused hostel offering lessons. Dorm beds NT$400–700, doubles NT$1,200–2,200. Jinzun Surf House (金樽衝浪小屋), No.23, Jinzun, ☏ +886 972789821 — A surfer-run guesthouse near Jinzun, with work-exchange arrangements.
• Mid-range: Low Pressure Restaurant and Guesthouse (熱帶低氣壓餐廳), No.108, ☏ +886 937579522 — Doubles NT$1,500–3,400; surf lessons available. Check-in 15:00, check-out 12:00.

• Dulan Park (熊都蘭文創園區), No.458, Dulan, ☏ +886 8 9719345 — Open 09:00–17:00, closed on the last day of every month. Sells local agricultural-product souvenirs and runs hands-on handicraft DIY courses.

Look out for Amis crafts and artwork from the studios at the sugar factory. There is no formal bargaining culture; marked prices are the norm.

• Taitung — About 25 km / 40 min south by car; the regional hub, with the airport, train station and gateway to Green Island and Orchid Island.
• Chenggong — A coastal fishing town to the north along Highway 11, known for its harbour and seafood.
• Chishang — In the East Rift Valley inland, famed for its rice paddies and the photogenic "Mr. Brown Avenue."
• Sanxiantai — Up the coast, a scenic islet linked to the mainland by a striking eight-arched footbridge.
• Luye — Inland in the Rift Valley, known for hot-air ballooning and tea-covered highlands.