Jiufen

Jiufen (九份, Jiǔfèn; also romanised Jioufen and historically Chiufen) is a small hillside town in the Ruifang District of New Taipei City, perched in the green hills above Taiwan's northeast coast. It is one of the most atmospheric and most visited towns in Taiwan — a warren of narrow stepped lanes, red-lantern-hung teahouses and shopfronts climbing the slope above the Pacific Ocean.

Jiufen prospered as a gold-mining town from the late 19th century until mining wound down in the 1950s, after which it fell into sharp decline. What saved it from becoming an anonymous ghost town was its haunting beauty: the steep streets, old teahouses and sweeping ocean views drew filmmakers and, later, crowds of visitors. It provided the setting for Hou Hsiao-hsien's A City of Sadness, winner of the Golden Lion at the 1989 Venice Film Festival. A persistent rumour ties Jiufen to the look of Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away, and although director Hayao Miyazaki has firmly denied the connection, the town happily plays up the association.

Jiufen is now one of Taiwan's most popular tourist villages, and that popularity is its main drawback — the lanes can be packed shoulder to shoulder, especially at weekends and from midday when tour buses arrive. To enjoy it at its best, come on a weekday or before noon, and consider staying into the evening when the lanterns glow and many day-trippers have left. The hillside climate is cool, damp and often misty or rainy, particularly in winter; a waterproof layer is wise in any season.

By Plane

The nearest international airport is Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (TPE), roughly 70–80 km away on the far side of Taipei. Most visitors reach Jiufen via Taipei, combining a train or bus with a transfer.

By Train

There is no railway station in Jiufen itself; the gateway is Ruifang Station on the TRA network. TRA trains run north from Taipei every 15–20 minutes. From Ruifang Station, walk left along the busy street, cross to the far side and continue straight for about 200 m past a police station to the bus stop for Jiufen and Jinguashi. It is also possible to take a train to Keelung and pick up a bus from there.

By Car / Road

By bus is the most common approach. From Ruifang Station, take Keelung bus 788 (every 20–30 minutes, NT$15, about 15 minutes) or bus 1062 to Jiufen. The 856 bus (the Golden Fulong Shuttle) also serves Jiufen, the Gold Museum and the Golden Waterfall, with a one-day pass for NT$50. From Keelung Station, bus 788 reaches Jiufen in about 45 minutes for NT$30. Direct coaches run from Taipei: bus 1062 from Songshan (about 90 minutes, NT$102) and New Taipei City bus 965 from Banqiao and west Taipei (65–90 minutes, NT$90). Note that on Saturdays and Sundays only public buses and private cars may enter Jiufen and Jinguashi; tour buses must park at designated lots served by free shuttles.

Jiufen is built into the hillside and the historic commercial core is small enough to cover entirely on foot, though there are steep changes in elevation. Two pedestrian streets form the heart of the town: Jishan Street (基山街), which twists along the hillside, and Shuqi Street (豎崎路), a steep stairway descending the slope. The main bus stop sits at the east end of Jishan Street. Qingbian Road runs one block below Jishan Street. The best approach is simply to get off the bus and wander without a fixed plan. Wear comfortable, non-slip shoes for the steps.

• Jiufen Old Street (九份老街) — Jishan Street; shops generally open 11:00–18:00. The town's defining attraction: a tangle of stores, eateries and teahouses built into the hillside, with spectacular views of the coast and Pacific Ocean. The most popular entrance is near the bus station, beside a 7-Eleven.

• Taiyang Co. Ruifang Mining Operation Office (台陽礦業事務所) — No. 54, Shuqi Road; tel +886 2 2497 2071; Monday–Friday 08:30–17:00, closed weekends. A historic building from the gold-mining era, with the Bafan Tunnel mine entrance preserved inside (not open to visitors).

• Songde Park (頌德公園) — Qingbian Road. A small memorial park west of town with monuments to Yen Yun-nian, founder of Jiufen's mining culture, and creative sculptures.

• Wufan Tunnel (五番坑道) — Qingbian Road, next to Songde Park. A mine tunnel excavated in 1927; the surrounding community park offers ocean views.

• Ghost Lore Museum — No. 35, Shuqi Road. A museum of ghosts and the undead with horror props and life-sized monster sculptures; admission around NT$100.

• Wander Jiufen at dusk — The signature experience: explore the lantern-lit lanes as the sky darkens and the teahouses glow.

• Shengping Theater (昇平戲院) — A historic cinema; the first theatre on the site dates from 1916 and the current building was completed in 1961. It still screens films and hosts traditional opera and other performances.

• Hike Mount Jilong (基隆山) — A 588 m peak marking the boundary between Jiufen and Jinguashi, climbable in about 40 minutes from the trailhead across from the parking lot, with sweeping views of the coast and city.

• Xiaojingua Peak (小金瓜露頭) — Along Route 102 toward Shuangxi, the rocky outcrop where Jiufen's gold-mining history began.

The sheer number of food stalls and restaurants packed into the old streets can be overwhelming. Local specialities include fishball soup, yuyuan (taro balls), and dumplings served hot or cold with sweet red beans, nuts and mochi.

• Grandma Lai's Yuyuan (賴阿婆芋圓) — No. 143, Jishan Street; tel +886 2 2497 5245; open 08:00–20:00. The most famous taro-ball shop in town; budget.
• Jishan Street food stalls — Endless stalls selling fishball soup, grilled snacks, dumplings and sweets along the main pedestrian street; budget.

Vegetarian travellers will find taro balls and many sweet snacks suitable; ask for "su shi" (素食) at savoury stalls.

Jiufen is famous for its teahouses, many with terraces overlooking the Pacific Ocean — lingering over a pot of tea with a view is a quintessential Jiufen experience.

• Amei Tea House (阿妹茶樓) — 20 Shixia Lane, off Shuqi Road; tel +886 2 2496 0833; Sunday–Thursday 08:30–00:00, Friday 08:30–01:00, Saturday 08:30–02:00. The most photographed teahouse in town, often cited as the inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away.
• Jioufen Teahouse (九份茶坊) — No. 142, Jishan Street; tel +886 2 2496 9056. A calm, spacious teahouse once a gathering place for Taiwanese writers and artists, with iron kettles over coals, fine ceramics, terrace seating and a lower-level gallery.
• City of Sadness Restaurant (悲情城市小上海茶樓) — 35 Shuqi Road, at the corner with Qingbian Road; tel +886 2 2406 2289. Featured in Hou Hsiao-hsien's film A City of Sadness.
• Yu Zai Fan Shu Tea House — Reached via the tunnel entrance near Amei Teahouse.

Tap water in Taiwan is generally not drunk unboiled; rely on tea, bottled or boiled water.

Jiufen has no conventional hotels, but there are several small guesthouses (look for the characters 住宿, "lodging"). Most visitors stay in Taipei or Keelung and visit Jiufen on a day trip; staying overnight, however, rewards you with the quiet, lantern-lit town after the crowds disperse.

• Budget / Mid-range: Small family-run guesthouses and minsu (homestays) scattered through the town.
• Upscale / heritage: Jiufen does not have upscale hotels; travellers seeking higher-end accommodation generally base themselves in Taipei.

Jiufen Old Street is itself the shopping experience. The stalls and shops along Jishan and Shuqi Streets sell handicrafts, souvenirs, snacks and knick-knacks of every kind, alongside the food vendors and teahouses. Local taro-ball products and tea make the most characteristic buys. Prices are generally fixed; bargaining is not customary.

• Jinguashi — The neighbouring former gold-mining town, a short bus 856 ride away; home to the Gold Museum, the Crown Prince Chalet and dramatic mountain-meets-ocean scenery.
• Pingxi District — Take the historic Pingxi Line railway from Ruifang to reach waterfalls and the sky-lantern villages of Shifen and Pingxi.
• Ruifang — The transport gateway town, about 15 minutes by bus, with rail connections back to Taipei.
• Keelung — Taiwan's busy northern port city, around 45 minutes by bus, with a famous night market.
• Fulong — A coastal beach village reachable along the northeast coast, good for swimming and surfing.