Choiseul

Choiseul is the northernmost province of the Solomon Islands, encompassing Choiseul Island itself — one of the largest islands in the archipelago at roughly 3,300 km² — along with the Treasury Islands, Shortland Islands, and several smaller outlying groups. The province is remote, sparsely populated (approximately 30,000 people), and among the least-visited regions in the entire South Pacific. Dense tropical rainforest blankets much of Choiseul Island's rugged volcanic interior, while its coastline is fringed with mangrove, coral reefs, and stretches of white sand beach that rarely see a visitor.

The province's character is defined by its isolation and the resilience of its Melanesian communities, which maintain subsistence lifestyles based on fishing, gardening, and copra production. There are no sealed roads, no banks, and very limited tourist infrastructure. This is raw, off-the-grid travel at its most authentic — a place where traditional village life continues largely as it has for generations, and where the rewards for the determined visitor are pristine natural environments, extraordinary marine biodiversity, and genuine cultural encounters far from any tourist trail.

Choiseul's strategic position near the Shortland Islands — within sight of Bougainville (Papua New Guinea) — gives it a distinctive borderland character. The Shortlands in particular have historically served as a meeting point between Melanesian cultures across the maritime boundary. The province saw limited but significant World War II activity, with the Japanese occupying parts of the Shortlands as a forward base.

The best time to visit is during the drier season from May to October, when rainfall is lower, seas are calmer, and inter-island boat travel is more reliable. The wet season (November to April) brings heavy rains, high humidity, and occasional cyclones that can disrupt boat services and make travel to remote villages difficult. There are no major festivals specific to Choiseul Province, though community celebrations around Christmas and Easter are common.

Transport within Choiseul Province is extremely limited. There are no paved roads on Choiseul Island — movement is by foot along coastal and jungle tracks, or by outboard motor canoe (commonly called banana boats) between coastal villages and island groups. A few rough bush tracks connect villages on Choiseul Island, but these are suitable only for 4WD vehicles in dry conditions and are often impassable after rain.

The provincial capital, Taro Island, is a tiny island just off the northwest coast of Choiseul Island, reached by a short boat crossing. From Taro, banana boats connect to communities around the coast of Choiseul Bay and beyond. Inter-island travel to the Treasury Islands and Shortland Islands requires dedicated boat trips — there is no scheduled ferry service. Solomon Airlines operates infrequent flights from Honiara to Taro Island airstrip (the province's only air link), though schedules are irregular and subject to cancellation.

Distances are deceptive: Taro Island to Sasamungga (on the south coast) is roughly 80 km by sea but can take a full day by boat depending on conditions. There are no taxis, buses, or rental cars. Arrange all transport through village contacts, your provincial hosts, or the provincial government office on Taro.

• Taro Island — The provincial capital and administrative centre, a tiny island off Choiseul's northwest coast with an airstrip, government offices, and a handful of basic facilities; the gateway to the province.
• Sasamungga — A coastal village on Choiseul's southern shore and one of the larger communities in the province, known for its proximity to pristine reef systems and rainforest.
• Choiseul Bay — A historically significant bay on the island's western coast, used as an anchorage for centuries and the site of the main island's most accessible coastal communities.
• Wagina — A small island south of Choiseul known for its Gilbertese (I-Kiribati) community, descendants of settlers relocated from the Gilbert Islands in the mid-20th century, giving it a unique cultural identity distinct from the rest of the province.
• Rob Roy Island — A small island in the Shortland group near the Papua New Guinea border, notable for its WWII history and the unusual cultural connections between the Shortland Islanders and Bougainville.

Food in Choiseul is based on subsistence staples: root crops (sweet potato, taro, cassava, yam), fish and seafood (reef fish, shellfish, crayfish caught on the outer reefs), and coconut used extensively in cooking. Traditional dishes include fish baked in coconut cream with root vegetables, and laplap — a pudding-like dish of grated root vegetables cooked in coconut milk in an earth oven. Rice is increasingly common but must be imported from Honiara.

There are no restaurants in the province. Visitors are typically hosted by village families or the provincial guesthouse on Taro, where meals are prepared communally. Expect simple but fresh food: boiled or grilled fish, rice or root vegetables, and tropical fruit (banana, papaya, coconut). Bring supplementary supplies (tinned food, coffee, sugar) as a courtesy to your hosts — limited supplies are available at the small trade stores on Taro. Water should be boiled or treated before drinking.

Choiseul's population is predominantly Melanesian, speaking several local languages along with Solomon Islands Pijin. The province's cultural traditions centre on customary land ownership, village governance by chiefs and elders, and the kastom (custom) practices that regulate social life, marriage, and resource use. Traditional music features pan-pipe ensembles and log drumming, while body decoration using shell money and woven ornaments remains important in ceremonies.

Wagina Island is culturally distinct, with a significant population descended from Gilbertese settlers relocated by the British colonial administration in the 1950s, preserving aspects of I-Kiribati culture including distinctive dancing and weaving traditions. There are no formally scheduled annual festivals, though community celebrations mark national holidays, church events, and customary occasions such as bride-price ceremonies and canoe-launching ceremonies. The Anglican and Catholic churches are influential throughout the province.

• Pristine Reef Diving and Snorkelling — The reefs around Choiseul and the Shortland Islands are among the most untouched in the Pacific, with exceptional coral cover and marine biodiversity. Bring your own equipment as none is available locally.
• WWII Relic Exploration in the Shortlands — The Shortland Islands served as a Japanese forward base during WWII, and remnants of fortifications, wrecks, and artefacts can still be found on Rob Roy Island and nearby islets.
• Village Homestay Immersion — Stay with a local family in one of Choiseul's coastal villages for a genuine experience of Melanesian village life, including fishing, gardening, and earth-oven cooking.
• Rainforest Trekking — Choiseul's interior is dense primary rainforest with limited trails; guided walks from coastal villages into the forest offer encounters with endemic birds, flying foxes, and spectacular tropical flora. Hiring a local guide is essential.
• Canoe Voyaging — Travel between villages by traditional outrigger canoe or motorised banana boat, experiencing the maritime lifestyle that has defined Choiseul's communities for millennia.