Popondetta

Popondetta is the capital of Oro (Northern) Province, on the coastal plain of northeastern mainland Papua New Guinea, between the Owen Stanley Range and the Solomon Sea. It is a hot, low-lying agricultural town set in oil-palm and cocoa country, and it serves above all as the northern gateway to the Kokoda Track, the famous WWII trekking route that crosses the Owen Stanleys to the outskirts of Port Moresby.

The area carries heavy wartime significance. In 1942 the beaches near Buna and Gona, north of Popondetta, were the scene of brutal fighting as Allied forces drove the Japanese back after the Kokoda campaign. The province is also marked by natural drama: in 1951 nearby Mount Lamington erupted catastrophically, killing several thousand people and devastating the region — one of the deadliest volcanic disasters of the 20th century. Popondetta was substantially rebuilt afterwards. For most visitors the town is a staging point — for the Kokoda Track from the Kokoda end, for the Buna–Gona battlefields, and for onward travel — rather than a sightseeing destination in itself.

The climate is hot, humid and wet, with very high rainfall; the relatively drier months from about June to October are the usual trekking season for Kokoda.

By Plane

Girua Airport (IATA: PNP) serves Popondetta, with flights to Port Moresby; it lies a short drive from town. This is the normal way in for trekkers and travellers, given the difficult overland access from the capital.

By Car / Road

Roads link Popondetta with Kokoda (the northern trailhead of the Kokoda Track) and with the coast at Oro Bay and the Buna–Gona area. PMVs run local routes. There is no through-road to Port Moresby — the Owen Stanley Range is crossed only on foot via the Kokoda Track — so road travel is within the province. Roads are rough and very wet; allow extra time.

Popondetta is a spread-out town; PMVs and arranged vehicles cover local trips to the airport, Kokoda and the coast. For trekking and battlefield visits, transport and guides are normally arranged through Kokoda trek operators.

• Kokoda Track northern trailhead — at Kokoda, a road trip from Popondetta; the start (or end) of the celebrated trek and the site of war memorials.

• Buna and Gona battlefields — coastal sites of fierce 1942 fighting, with relics and memorials.

• Mount Lamington — the volcano whose 1951 eruption devastated the region, a presence on the landscape north of town.

• Trek the Kokoda Track — Popondetta is the gateway for trekking from the Kokoda (northern) end across the Owen Stanleys; trips are arranged through licensed operators with guides and porters.

• Visit the WWII battlefields — Kokoda, Buna and Gona, with their memorials and relics, are the area's defining historical experience.

• Explore the coast at Oro Bay — for beaches and a break from the heat of the plain.

Eating centres on a few basic eateries, trade stores and the market, plus guesthouse meals. Local food relies on root crops, sago, fish and the area's plentiful fruit. Trekking food is organised by operators. Hotel and guesthouse dining is the most reliable for a cooked meal.

Soft drinks, fresh coconut, tea and coffee are everyday choices. Drink boiled, filtered or bottled water and treat tap water as unsafe — important in this very wet, low-lying environment. Carry ample water for treks and battlefield trips.

• Budget: Guesthouses and church lodges in and around Popondetta provide simple rooms, often used by trekkers; arrange ahead.
• Mid-range: A small number of hotels and lodges serve government, NGO and trekking visitors.

The town market sells fresh produce and the abundant tropical fruit of the Oro plain. Oro Province is famous for tapa (barkcloth), a distinctive painted craft, and for the spectacular Queen Alexandra's birdwing butterfly that lives in the region (protected — to be admired, not taken). Buy tapa and craft from local makers.

• Kokoda (by road) — the northern trailhead of the Kokoda Track and its war memorials.
• Buna / Gona (coast) — WWII battlefields.
• Oro Bay (coast) — beaches and the provincial wharf.
• Tufi (further along the coast) — fjords and diving in Oro Province.