Samarai

Samarai is a tiny island in the China Strait, off the southeastern tip of mainland Papua New Guinea, in Milne Bay Province. Barely a kilometre across, it punches far above its size in history: from the late 19th century until the Second World War, Samarai was the administrative and commercial capital of the region and one of the busiest ports in the Territory of Papua — a bustling colonial entrepôt of trade stores, hotels, churches and wharves, second only to Port Moresby in importance.

The town was deliberately destroyed by Australian forces in 1942 under a scorched-earth policy ahead of an anticipated Japanese advance, and it never recovered its former status; in 1968 the regional capital role passed to Alotau on the mainland. Today Samarai is a quiet, atmospheric place — a whole island declared a national historical heritage site, with the relics and street pattern of its colonial heyday slowly weathering in a beautiful tropical setting of clear water and nearby islands. For travellers it is a peaceful, evocative day trip or overnight stop from Alotau, rich in history and scenery rather than facilities.

The climate is hot and humid, with the calmer, drier season from about May to October the best time for the boat crossing and for enjoying the surrounding waters.

By Boat

Samarai is reached by dinghy or small boat from the Alotau area and the nearby mainland (the crossing of the China Strait is short). Arrange transport through hotels, operators or at the wharf; sea conditions vary, so travel in settled weather.

The island is tiny and entirely walkable — a stroll around its perimeter and through the old town takes well under an hour. There is no vehicle traffic to speak of; exploring on foot is the whole point.

• The historic town and heritage relics — Samarai's colonial-era buildings, churches, wharves and the layout of the old port make the whole island an open-air heritage site.

• War memorial and history — markers and remnants recall Samarai's role and its wartime destruction.

• Surrounding islands and waters — Kwato Island, with its historic mission church, lies close by and is a common pairing with a Samarai visit.

• Walk the heritage island — circumnavigate Samarai on foot to absorb its layered history and setting.

• Visit Kwato Island — the nearby mission island with its landmark church and connection to the London Missionary Society history of the region.

• Snorkel and swim — the clear waters of the China Strait invite easy swimming and snorkelling.

Eating is informal and limited — meals are arranged through a guesthouse or brought with you. Local food is fish, root crops and tropical fruit. Do not expect restaurants; plan provisions, especially for a day trip.

Fresh coconut and soft drinks where available; tea and coffee through accommodation. Drink boiled, filtered or bottled water and carry your own supply.

• Guesthouse: Simple guesthouse accommodation has operated on Samarai for visitors wanting to stay overnight on the historic island; options are very limited.

There is little formal shopping; a local store or two and informal sellers cover basics and the occasional craft. The China Strait area shares Milne Bay's fine carving and woven-craft traditions, usually bought back in Alotau or from villages.

• Alotau (by boat then road) — the Milne Bay capital and regional hub.
• Kwato Island (nearby by boat) — historic mission church.
• Milne Bay islands and dive sites (via Alotau) — the wider archipelago of reefs and islands.