Rabaul

Rabaul is one of the most extraordinary towns in the Pacific: a former colonial capital that was buried by its own volcanoes and never fully rebuilt. It sits on the rim of a vast flooded caldera at the northeastern tip of New Britain, in East New Britain Province. Once the elegant capital of the whole Territory of New Guinea — a town of botanical gardens, a deep natural harbour and a colonial grid — it was devastated on 19 September 1994 when Tavurvur and Vulcan, two of the caldera's cones, erupted simultaneously and smothered the town in ash. Most of Rabaul was abandoned, the provincial capital moved to Kokopo, and what remains is a haunting, half-buried townscape lived in by a reduced population amid grey ash plains.

Rabaul's harbour, Simpson Harbour, is the drowned heart of the caldera and one of the finest natural anchorages in the world — which is exactly why the Japanese chose it as their main South Pacific base in the Second World War, fortifying the surrounding hills with hundreds of kilometres of tunnels. The combination of active volcanism, wartime history and a literally buried town gives Rabaul a uniquely powerful sense of place. Tavurvur remains active and has erupted again since 1994, so conditions can change.

The climate is hot and humid year-round, with the driest and most settled travel months roughly May to October. Volcanic ash and air quality can be an issue depending on Tavurvur's mood.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Tokua (IATA: RAB), about 40 km away near Kokopo; the original Lakunai and later airfields close to Rabaul were lost to volcanic activity. From Tokua, reach Rabaul by PMV or arranged transfer via Kokopo (roughly 30–45 minutes by road).

By Train

By Car / Road

A sealed coast road connects Rabaul with Kokopo, about 20–30 minutes around Blanche Bay, and onward to Tokua Airport. PMVs run this route regularly. Within and around Rabaul, ash-affected and minor roads vary in condition; a guide or local driver is helpful.

Rabaul is small and partly depopulated, so the central remains are walkable, but you will want a vehicle or PMV to reach the volcano observatory, the hot springs, the harbour viewpoints and the tunnels scattered around the caldera. Guides based in Rabaul and Kokopo run tours that tie the sights together and explain the layered history.

Volcanic Rabaul

• Tavurvur volcano — the active cone responsible for the town's destruction, reachable by boat across the harbour or on foot with guides when activity allows; nearby beaches have volcanic hot springs.
• Rabaul Volcano Observatory — perched above the town with a commanding view over Simpson Harbour, the caldera and the cones; the standard orientation stop.
• The buried town — streets, the old market and buildings partly entombed in ash, an eerie and moving sight.

War history

• Japanese tunnels and barge tunnels — an immense network bored into the hills, including tunnels built to hide landing barges.

• Admiral Yamamoto's bunker — the reinforced wartime command bunker associated with the Japanese naval command.

• Submarine Base and harbour wrecks — the deep harbour drops off steeply and holds WWII wrecks.

• Dive Simpson Harbour and the outer reefs — WWII shipwrecks, aircraft and reef walls draw divers; operators work out of Rabaul and Kokopo.

• Climb or boat to Tavurvur — a guided volcano excursion, conditions permitting, often combined with the hot springs.

• Tour the WWII tunnels — with a knowledgeable local guide who can interpret the vast Japanese fortifications.

• Take in the caldera by boat — to grasp the scale of the flooded crater and its cones.

Eating options in Rabaul itself are limited; the main hotel and a few small eateries serve meals, and most visitors base their dining around Kokopo. Local food relies on root crops, reef fish and fruit, with the market the cheapest source. Carry water and snacks for volcano and tunnel excursions.

Soft drinks, fresh coconut, tea and coffee are the everyday choices. The town's surviving hotel and bars serve beer (SP Lager) and spirits. Do not drink the tap water — use bottled, boiled or filtered water, and be mindful of air quality near the active vent.

• Budget: A handful of guesthouses and church lodges in and near Rabaul offer simple rooms.
• Heritage / mid-range: Rabaul retains at least one historic hotel that survived the eruptions and trades on its WWII and colonial heritage; most additional choice is in nearby Kokopo.

Rabaul's commercial life is much reduced since 1994, with most shopping now centred on Kokopo. A local market and trade stores cover basics. Look for bilums, shell ornaments and Tolai craft. As elsewhere on the Gazelle Peninsula, tabu shell money is a living cultural tradition rather than a tourist commodity.

• Kokopo (20–30 min southeast) — the modern provincial capital, war museum and main hotels.
• Bita Paka War Cemetery (near Kokopo) — Commonwealth war graves.
• Duke of York Islands (by boat) — quiet atolls in St George's Channel.
• Kavieng, New Ireland (short flight) — diving and surf at New Ireland's tip.