Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park is one of Norway's most iconic protected mountain landscapes, stretching across a high alpine plateau in Central Norway that forms a natural divide between the eastern lowlands and Trøndelag. Established in 2002 — replacing and greatly expanding an earlier Dovrefjell National Park from 1974 — the park covers roughly 1,693 km² and is jointly managed across parts of Trøndelag, Innlandet, and Møre og Romsdal counties. It is flanked to the northeast by Dovre National Park (est. 2003), which links the protected area to Rondane National Park, creating one of the largest contiguous wilderness zones in Scandinavia.

Dovrefjell holds a singular place in the Norwegian imagination. When Norway's constitution was signed in 1814, the founding fathers swore to remain "united and true until the mountains of Dovrefjell do crumble." The mountain barrier gave its name to "det Nordenfjeldske" — the part of Norway north of the mountains — and has been crossed by travellers, pilgrims, and armies since before recorded history. Medieval mountain inns (fjellstuer) were established to shelter pilgrims heading to Nidarosdomen in Trondheim; two of them, Hjerkinn fjellstue and Kongsvold fjellstue, still welcome guests today. The area's summit, Snøhetta at 2,286 m, was long believed to be Norway's highest peak until Jotunheimen was surveyed in the 19th century.

The park is internationally renowned for its wildlife — particularly the wild musk ox herd descended from animals introduced from Greenland in the 1940s and 1950s — as well as wild reindeer, Arctic fox, golden eagle, and an extraordinary concentration of rare alpine plants. The climate is dry and continental by Norwegian standards; Hjerkinn is among the driest places in all of Europe. Winters are cold and snowy, while summers are mild with long daylight hours. The E6 highway and Dovrebanen railway cross the plateau from Dombås to Oppdal, making this one of Norway's most accessible high-mountain wilderness areas.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Oslo Airport Gardermoen (OSL), about 340 km south of Dombås along the E6. From Gardermoen, the Dovrebanen train reaches Dombås in roughly 3.5 hours and Oppdal in about 4.5 hours. Trondheim Airport Værnes (TRD), 130 km north of Oppdal, is another option with frequent domestic and international connections; the Dovrebanen train from Trondheim S reaches Oppdal in about 1.5 hours. There is no airport closer to the park plateau itself. Do not fly into Sandefjord Airport Torp (TRF) — it is far off the route and requires an overnight in Oslo to connect.

By Train

The Dovrebanen railway is the main rail line, operated by Vy (formerly NSB). Stations on the park's periphery are Dombås (south), Hjerkinn (highest point on the line, at the plateau), Kongsvoll, and Oppdal (north). Dombås is the junction where the Raumabanen branches west toward Åndalsnes, with stops at Lesja, Bjorli, and Åndalsnes — one of Norway's most scenic rail journeys. Book tickets via vy.no or the Vy app; advance booking gives significant savings (Minipris fares from around kr 249 from Oslo to Dombås). All long-distance trains stop at Oslo Airport Gardermoen.

By Car / Road

From Oslo: take E6 north via Lillehammer and Otta — approximately 340 km, 4.5–5 hours to Dombås. From Trondheim: take E6 south — about 130 km, 1.5 hours to Oppdal. The E6 is a well-maintained two-lane highway over the plateau; it is almost never closed by weather (less than once per year) but winter conditions require snow tyres from October to April.

Bus services: Lavprisekspressen runs budget express coaches along E6 between Oslo and Trondheim (book online in advance at lavprisekspressen.no). Norway Bussekspress (norb.no) operates regional services on surrounding roads including R70 from Oppdal to Sunndalsøra and E136 from Dombås toward Åndalsnes. A local bus meets trains at Hjerkinn and runs along R29 to Folldal and Alvdal.

The park has no internal public transport. Getting around requires a combination of car and foot.

By car: The E6 crosses the plateau between Dombås and Oppdal. Smaller roads — E136 to Åndalsnes, R70/R62 from Oppdal via Sunndalsøra toward Molde, R29 from Hjerkinn to Folldal, and the Aursjøvegen mountain road from Sunndalsøra to Eikesdalen — provide access to trailheads and viewpoints. The Aursjøvegen is spectacular but narrow and steep; no caravans or trailers.

On foot: The park has an extensive network of marked summer trails, with cairns (varden) as way-markers. Most trails are unmarked in winter. The Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) operates staffed and self-service huts in the area. Terrain is demanding — rocky, exposed, and weather can change rapidly. Always carry a map (Statens Kartverk 1:50,000 series), compass, and full mountain gear.

By bicycle: Biking is permitted in the national parks only along certain designated routes and only part of the year. The Tour de Dovrefjell is a popular cycling round trip; e-bikes are classified as motorised vehicles and restricted to the same routes. Dovrefjell Adventures in Hjerkinn offers bike rental and luggage transport.

Taxis are available in Dombås and Oppdal but not on the plateau. There is no ride-hailing service in the area.

• Snøhetta viewpoint and summit trail — The 2,286-metre peak is the park's most iconic landmark. The standard route from Snøheim (staffed DNT hut) is a demanding but non-technical day hike of 6–8 hours round trip. Panoramic views across the entire Dovrefjell plateau and, on clear days, to the coast.

• Musk ox territory around Hjerkinn — The wild musk ox herd (around 200–300 animals) roams the plateau between Hjerkinn and Kongsvoll. The animals are most reliably seen from marked trails south of Hjerkinn; always keep 200 m distance. Guided musk ox safaris depart from Hjerkinn fjellstue and are the safest way to observe them.

• Kongsvoll Alpine Botanical Garden — Operated by the NTNU University Museum, this small garden at Kongsvoll railway station displays the rare alpine flora of Dovrefjell, including species found nowhere else in Norway. Free entry, open during summer.

• Fokstumyrene Nature Reserve — A wetland on the northwestern edge of the plateau, famous since the mid-1800s for its birdlife. Once nearly emptied of nesting species by collectors, it was fully protected in 1923. A boardwalk and observation hides allow visitors to see species including golden plover, ruff, and various sandpipers.

• Knutshøene peaks — Three peaks south of Snøhetta, extraordinarily rich in rare alpine plants. Many species here were among the first to be legally protected in Norway (1905 and 1911). The area requires a full-day hike.

• Drivdalen valley — A dramatic limestone gorge running south from the plateau toward Dombås. The loose slate and limestone support rare plants and the valley floor has traces of the old pilgrim route (Pilegrimsvegen).

• Hjerkinn military area and viewpoints — The former Hjerkinn shooting range has been restored as a nature area. The Tipping Point viewpoint, designed by the architect firm Snøhetta (named after the mountain), offers striking views of the plateau and Snøhetta summit.

• Musk ox safari — Guided walks (half-day, typically kr 650–900 per person) led by experienced local guides who know where the herd is grazing. Departures from Hjerkinn, mainly June–September. Booking essential — try Dovrefjell Adventures or Hjerkinn fjellstue. This is the safest and most rewarding way to see musk oxen up close.

• Kongevegen over Dovrefjell — The historic "King's Road" between Dovre and Oppdal churches (about 100 km), a publicly maintained route since the early 18th century. Three recommended day-hike sections of 7–12 km are available: Dovre village to Allmannrøysa (1,210 m), Jøroskloppa/Hjerkinn fjellstue to Hjerkinnhø, and the famous Vårstigen ("Spring Path") stretch.

• Saint Olaf's Way (Pilegrimsleden) — The Gudbrandsdalsleden pilgrimage route from Oslo to Nidarosdomen in Trondheim crosses Dovrefjell between Dovre village and Hjerkinn. Walk a section as a day hike or plan a multi-day pilgrimage. Accommodation available at the medieval fjellstuer along the route.

• Tour de Dovrefjell cycling round trip — A multi-day cycling route around and through the park. Dovrefjell Adventures offers bike rental (mountain bikes and e-bikes), luggage transport, and route planning.

• Birdwatching at Fokstumyrene — Best in May–July for nesting waders and ducks. The boardwalk and hides are accessed from a parking area off E6 near Fokstua.

• Cross-country skiing — The valleys around Dombås, Oppdal, and Lesja have extensive groomed trail networks in winter. Dombås and Oppdal both have alpine ski resorts as well.

• Day trip to Åndalsnes via Raumabanen — Take the scenic Raumabanen railway from Dombås to Åndalsnes (about 1.5 hours), one of Norway's most spectacular rail journeys, with views of the Romsdal valley and Trollveggen (Troll Wall), Europe's tallest vertical rock face.

Food options are sparse on the plateau itself and centre on the accommodation providers. Dombås and Oppdal have more variety.

• Hjerkinn fjellstue — Serves traditional Norwegian mountain fare: lamb stew (fårikål), reindeer steak, fresh trout, and seasonal game. Dinner around kr 410 for non-board guests. The medieval atmosphere of the dining room is part of the experience.

• Kongsvold fjellstue — One of Norway's oldest continuously operating inns. Known for multi-course dinners using local ingredients — cured meats, mountain trout, cloudberries. The kitchen has a strong reputation for foraged and seasonal cooking.

• Toftemo Turiststasjon (Dovre village) — A coaching inn from the 1830s with a casual restaurant serving Norwegian comfort food. Good value for families.

• Dombås restaurants — The Dombås Hotel and several cafés in town offer Norwegian standards: fish soup (fiskesuppe), elk burger, waffles with brunost (brown cheese), and open-faced sandwiches. Expect mains kr 180–300.

• Oppdal — A few more dining options including Oppdal Hotel's restaurant, pizza places, and the café at Oppdal Ski Centre. The town has a small grocery selection for self-catering.

Vegetarian options are limited but improving; most kitchens can prepare a vegetable-based dish on request. Norwegian tap water is safe to drink everywhere. Reindeer and lamb dominate the local protein — halal and kosher options are not available in this area.

This is not a nightlife destination. Drinking centres on the lodges and their bars.

• Local beer — Oppdal has a small craft brewing scene. Ask at local restaurants for Oppdal Bryggeri or regional Trøndelag craft beers.
• Aquavit — Norway's national spirit, flavoured with caraway. Served chilled alongside traditional dinners at the fjellstuer.
• Coffee — Norwegians drink enormous quantities of strong filter coffee. Every lodge and café serves it; at fjellstuer it is typically included with meals.
• Water — Tap water and most mountain streams are safe to drink without treatment. Carry a bottle for the trail; there are no shops on the plateau.

Bars close early by international standards (typically 23:00 or midnight). Dombås and Oppdal each have a hotel bar; the fjellstuer have small lounges for guests.

• Budget: Toftemo Turiststasjon (Dovre village, 2 km north of Dombås off E6) offers hostel rooms from kr 600/night without breakfast, 6-person rooms at kr 800. Camping from kr 190 for two in a tent. Glamping tents kr 1,440 for two. Swimming pool in summer. Tel +47 61-24-00-45. DNT self-service huts along the trail network are another budget option (DNT membership required, typically kr 200–400/night for members).

• Mid-range: Hjerkinn fjellstue (NO-2661 Hjerkinn) — double rooms from kr 1,670 including breakfast and linen, with Wi-Fi and en-suite facilities. Apartments from kr 1,575–2,130. Camping on-site kr 120/person (tent). Open mid-June to September for hotel; apartments year-round. Tel +47 94-05-04-29. Oppdal Hotel and Dombås Hotel offer standard hotel rooms in the kr 1,000–1,500 range.

• Upscale / Heritage: Kongsvold fjellstue (NO-7340 Oppdal) — one of Norway's two surviving medieval mountain inns, with a renowned dining room and beautifully restored buildings. Expect rates in the kr 2,000–3,000 range for a double. The setting at the foot of the plateau is exceptional. Toftemo Turiststasjon also offers glamping tents at kr 1,440 for two with a heritage atmosphere.

Wild camping is permitted under Norway's Allemannsretten (Right to Roam): keep 150 m from the nearest inhabited house, follow leave-no-trace principles, and use existing tent platforms where available.

Shopping is limited in this remote mountain area. Dombås has a small town centre with grocery stores (Coop, Kiwi), a petrol station, and outdoor-gear shops. Oppdal has similar facilities plus a handful of local craft outlets. Look for:

• Local wool and knitwear — Traditional Norwegian woollen sweaters (lusekofte, setesdalskofte) and knitted accessories from local producers.
• Reindeer products — Cured reindeer meat (fenalår), reindeer-hide products, and Sámi-influenced crafts are available at farm shops and roadside stands around Oppdal and Dombås.
• Dovrefjell honey — The alpine wildflower meadows produce distinctive honey; small batches are sold at local farms and markets.
• Maps and outdoor gear — Statens Kartverk topographic maps and DNT memberships are available at Dombås tourist information and some accommodation providers.

No bargaining is expected or customary. Shops in Dombås and Oppdal keep standard Norwegian hours (Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, closed Sundays).

• Rondane National Park (50 km east of Dombås, 1 hour drive) — Norway's first national park, with gentle alpine terrain, wild reindeer herds, and excellent hut-to-hut hiking. Connected to Dovrefjell via Dovre National Park.

• Åndalsnes and Romsdal (105 km west of Dombås via E136, 1.5 hours) — Gateway to the Romsdal Alps, Trollveggen (Troll Wall), and the Trollstigen mountain road. Reachable by the spectacular Raumabanen railway.

• Trondheim (130 km north of Oppdal, 1.5 hours by car or train) — Norway's third-largest city, home to the Nidarosdomen cathedral, the endpoint of the Saint Olaf's Way pilgrimage, and a vibrant food and cultural scene.

• Sunndal and Eikesdalen (70 km west of Oppdal via R70) — The dramatic Sunndal valley and remote Eikesdalen, reached via the Aursjøvegen mountain road, with waterfalls, old-growth forest, and virtually no tourists.

• Jotunheimen National Park (200 km southwest, 3 hours drive via Lom) — Norway's highest mountains, including Galdhøpiggen (2,469 m), the country's tallest peak. A natural extension for serious mountain hikers.

• Folldal and Alvdal (R29 east from Hjerkinn, 45 minutes) — Gateway to the Østerdal valley and the Røros UNESCO World Heritage mining town (further north). Quiet rural Norway with traditional wooden architecture.