Calabar

Calabar, the capital of Cross River State, is widely considered Nigeria's cleanest and most historic city. Situated on the Calabar River in the south-eastern corner of Nigeria, near the Cameroon border, Calabar was a major port during the transatlantic slave trade and later became the first capital of the Niger Coast Protectorate. The city's colonial-era architecture, tree-lined streets, and waterfront promenade give it a relaxed, almost resort-like character uncommon in Nigerian cities. Calabar is the cultural capital of the Efik people and the centre of the annual Calabar Carnival — Africa's biggest street party, held throughout December. The city is also the gateway to the extraordinary Cross River National Park and the Obudu Plateau.

Calabar Airport (CBQ) has daily flights from Lagos and Abuja on Air Peace and Arik Air. The city is connected by road to Port Harcourt via the East–West Road (3 hours) and to Uyo (1.5 hours). Buses from major Nigerian cities arrive at the Calabar motor park.

Calabar is the most walkable Nigerian city. Taxis and keke tricycles are cheap and plentiful. The Calabar Marina waterfront promenade is perfect for walking. The Calabar–Ikom road connects the city to the interior.

The Slave History Museum at the Calabar Marina is a powerful memorial to the transatlantic slave trade. The Calabar Museum (the former colonial governor's lodge) has exhibits on Efik culture. The Duke's Church (St. Paul's) is one of the oldest churches in Nigeria. The Calabar Waterfront and the Tinapa Business Resort are modern developments.

The Calabar Carnival (December) is a must — book accommodation months in advance. Take a river cruise on the Calabar River past the mangrove islands. Visit the Calabar Free Trade Zone and Tinapa Resort for shopping and entertainment.

Calabar is the best place in Nigeria for seafood — fresh prawns, crab, barracuda, and croaker. The Watbridge Hotel and Tinapa restaurants serve Efik specialities: Edikang Ikong, Afang Soup, and fresh pepper soup. The Marian Road night market is excellent for street food.

The Marina waterfront has several bars and lounges with river views. Tinapa has nightclubs and bars. Fresh palm wine is available in the surrounding villages.

Budget: Calabar Marina Resort, Channel View Hotel. Mid-range: Tinapa Lakeside Hotel, Mountain Royal Hotel. Luxury: The Metropolitan Boutique Hotel, Transcorp Hotels Calabar.

The Watt Market is Calabar's main shopping area — textiles, crafts, and food. The Tinapa Business Resort has a duty-free shopping zone. The Calabar Craft Village sells Efik souvenirs, beads, and carvings.

• Cross River National Park (Oban section, 2 hrs) — rainforest trekking
• Obudu Mountain Resort (4 hrs north) — cable car and cool highlands
• Ikom (2 hrs north) — ancient monoliths
• Uyo (1.5 hrs) — Akwa Ibom State capital