Jerash

Jerash, a city in northern Jordan, is famous for its Roman ruins. The archaeological site is the most popular tourist attraction in Jordan after Petra. Located 48 km (30 miles) north of the capital Amman, Jerash is known for the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa, also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River. It is sometimes misleadingly called the "Pompeii of the Middle East", referring to its size, extent of excavation and level of preservation, though Jerash was never buried by a volcano.

Jerash became an urban centre during the 3rd century BC and a member of the federation of Greek cities known as the Decapolis ("ten cities" in Greek). It prospered during the 1stst century BC as a result of its position on the incense and spice trade route from the Arabian Peninsula to Syria and the Mediterranean. Jerash was a favourite city of the Roman emperor Hadrian and reached its zenith in AD 130, flourishing economically and socially. The city began to decline in the 3rd century, later becoming a Christian city under the Byzantine empire. Muslims took over in AD 635, but the final blow was dealt by Baldwin II of Jerusalem in AD 1112 during the Crusades.

Modern Jerash sprawls to the east of the ruins, sharing the same city wall but little else. The ruins have been carefully preserved and spared from encroachment. The climate is Mediterranean with hot dry summers and cool wet winters; spring (March–May) is the ideal time to visit.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Queen Alia International Airport (AMM), approximately 60 km south of Jerash. From the airport, take a taxi or bus to Amman, then onward to Jerash via bus or taxi.

By Car / Road

From 8th Circle in Amman, take the north-west road out towards Salt. Eventually turn northward; brown tourism signs clearly mark the road towards Jerash. The drive is approximately 48 km and takes about 1 hour.

By bus: From Tabarbour Bus Station (North station) in Amman, buses cost 1.00 JD and take about one hour. Alternatively, take the BRT (Bus Rapid Transfer) from the Jordan Museum in downtown Amman to its terminus at Sweileh BRT Station, then cross the park and take a service taxi (serviis) to Jerash for 1.00 JD. A private taxi from Amman costs 8–10 JD one-way; expect up to 40 JD for a return trip with the driver waiting. Always negotiate the price beforehand and specify it is for the whole taxi, not per person.

Walking is the only option within the archaeological site — about 3 km total. Enter at the South Gate, south of the Hippodrome. The North Gate is closed. The modern town is also walkable. Local minibuses connect the town to nearby villages.

Jerash Ruins — Summer 07:30–19:00; winter 08:00–17:00. The Temple of Artemis and the temple near the entrance overlooking the Oval Plaza have hidden staircases in their walls allowing you to climb up for great views — be careful, there are no barriers at the top. 10 JD for foreign visitors (0.5 JD for locals); free with Jordan Pass.

• Hadrian's Arch — Built in 129 AD to mark Emperor Hadrian's visit, intended as the new southern gate of the city.
• Hippodrome — A partially restored Roman-era stadium, the smallest hippodrome in the Roman Empire at 245 m long and 52 m wide. The costumed centurion expects 1 JD for a photo.
• Oval Plaza (Forum) — An unusual wide, asymmetrical plaza at the beginning of the Cardo, built in the 1st century AD. 80 m by 90 m, enclosed by 160 Ionic columns.
• Temple of Zeus — Above the temple is the South Theater and another temple with great views onto the Oval Plaza.
• South Theater — An amphitheatre seating up to 3,000, occasionally used for concerts. Daily features include bagpipers in traditional Jordanian military dress.
• The Cardo (Maximus) — A 600-m colonnaded street running the length of the city, once lined with major buildings, shops and residences. Look for chariot tracks in the stone.
• Agora — The city's main food market with a central fountain.
• Nymphaeum — An ornate public fountain decorated with lion heads, dedicated to the nymphs.
• Temple of Artemis — Impressive temple ruins dedicated to the patron goddess of the city.
• Jerash Archaeological Museum — Features artefacts found during excavation including coins, statuary and sarcophagi. Free.

Roman Army and Chariot Experience — Two daily shows at 11:30 and 14:30 at the hippodrome, featuring Roman Legion tactics, mock gladiator fights, and chariot exhibitions. You can go on a chariot ride after the show. 12 JD.

Sound and Light Show — An evening light show illuminating the ancient sites in different colours. 2 JD.

Music and Arts Festival — An annual festival each summer held among the ruins.

The Jordan Trail — The 650-km trail from Umm Qais to Aqaba passes through the Jerash area, offering day-hike sections.

• The Lebanese House — Walk past the police kiosk on the main street and turn down the dirt road. Good Lebanese food, particularly mezze. ☏ +962 26351301.
• Several restaurants line the road into Jerash offering standard Jordanian fare.

Jerash is a conservative town and alcohol is not widely available. Coffee and tea are served at local cafés throughout the town. Carry plenty of water during summer visits, as temperatures can be high while exploring the extensive archaeological site. Bottled water is available from shops near the South Gate entrance.

• Budget: Hadrian's Gate Hotel, Jerash Main Road, opposite Hadrian's Arch, ☏ +962 77 779 3907. Inexpensive and conveniently located across from the archaeological park entrance.
• Mid-range: The Olive Branch, Ajloun Road (7 km outside town), ☏ +962 2 634 0555. Quiet hilltop retreat with swimming pool. Also has a campground (5 JD, own tent required).
• Budget: Dibbin National Park — Camping a bit outside town, recommended on weekdays as weekends are busy. 3 JD.

Just outside the archaeological park's South Gate is a small souq offering Jordanian souvenirs and handicrafts. Shopkeepers are amiable and willing to bargain. Local children may try to sell Roman coins and artefacts found on site — please refrain from buying, as this practice is not legal.

• Ajlun & Ajlun Castle — An Islamic fortress 16 km east of Jerash with wonderful views of northwestern Jordan and into Galilee. Combine with Jerash in a day trip.
• Amman — The capital, 48 km south, with its own Roman ruins, souqs, and modern amenities.
• Irbid — The main industrial and administrative centre in the north, 40 km north of Jerash, a staging point for Gadara (Umm Qais) and Pella.