Zaatari

Zaatari is the site of the Zaatari Refugee Camp (مخيم الزعتري), the world's largest camp for Syrian refugees, located 10 km east of Mafraq in northern Jordan. Established on 28 July 2012, the camp was built to accommodate Syrians fleeing the Syrian Civil War. Within months it became Jordan's fourth-largest population centre, peaking at over 156,000 residents in March 2013. As of 2026, the camp population is approximately 77,000.

What began as a tent city has evolved into a semi-permanent settlement with a distinctive character — paved streets (nicknamed the "Champs-Élysées" market strip), a 12.9 MW solar plant (the largest ever built in a refugee camp), schools, health clinics, and thousands of small businesses run by refugees including bakeries, barbershops, and clothing stores. The camp is jointly administered by the Syrian Refugee Affairs Directorate (SRAD) and UNHCR.

Visiting Zaatari offers a profound look at humanitarian response, refugee resilience, and the long-term reality of displacement. The best time to visit is between March and November, when the weather is moderate. Summers (June–August) are extremely hot and dry; winters (December–February) can be cold with occasional rain. Access is restricted — visitors must obtain prior permission from SRAD/UNHCR.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) near Amman, approximately 80 km southwest. A taxi from the airport to Mafraq costs around JOD 40–50 (1 hr). From Mafraq, a local taxi to the camp entrance costs JOD 5–8.

By Train

By Car / Road

From Amman, take Highway 10 northeast towards Mafraq (75 km, approximately 1 hr). From Mafraq, follow the signs 10 km east to the camp entrance. A private taxi from Amman costs JOD 35–50 one way. Minibuses run from Amman's Abdali station to Mafraq (JOD 3, 1.5 hr), then a local taxi to the camp.

The camp is walkable (roughly 5.2 km²), but during summer a shared taxi or tuk-tuk between the gate and the market area costs JOD 1–2. UN and NGO vehicles operate inside the camp but are not available to visitors. The main street, Sharia al-Madina al-Munawwara, runs through the centre with most shops and services along it.

• Champs-Élysées Market (Sharia al-Madina al-Munawwara) — the camp's main commercial street, lined with hundreds of shops, bakeries, and eateries run by Syrian refugees. A remarkable example of grassroots enterprise in a humanitarian setting.

• Solar Plant — a 12.9 MW photovoltaic facility funded by the German government (KfW), providing 12–14 hours of electricity daily to the camp. Visible from the eastern edge.

• UNHCR Registration Centre — the main humanitarian hub where refugees register for aid. Offers an educational visitor centre (by appointment).

• Community Centres — several centres run by UNFPA, IRC, and Save the Children offer art exhibitions and spaces displaying refugee-made crafts and artwork.

• Guided Humanitarian Tour — arrange a guided visit through UNHCR or SRAD (requires prior booking). Tours cover the market, solar plant, schools, and health facilities. Duration: 2–3 hours.

• Visit the Craft Workshop — several women's centres sell handicrafts, embroidery, and soaps made by refugee artisans. A meaningful way to support the community.

• Photography — permission is required. Arrange through UNHCR's communications team. The contrast of the desert setting with the dense camp landscape is striking.

• Al-Sham Bakery — fresh Syrian flatbread (kmaj) baked in traditional clay ovens, at the market entrance. Very cheap at JOD 0.25 per loaf.
• Damascus Restaurant — serves ful medames, hummus, and grilled chicken with rice and salad. A filling meal costs JOD 3–5.
• Aleppo Sweets — sells baklava, knafeh, and Syrian pastries. Portions from JOD 1. All food in the camp is halal.

• Café al-Rabie — a popular tea and coffee stall on the main market street serving sweet black tea (JOD 0.20) and Arabic coffee with cardamom (JOD 0.50).
• Fresh Juice Stalls — seasonal pomegranate, orange, and lemonade juice sold from carts along the market street (JOD 0.50–1).
• Bottled water is available from camp stores (JOD 0.25–0.50). Tap water in the camp is treated but bottled water is recommended for visitors.

There is no tourist accommodation inside Zaatari camp. The nearest hotels are in Mafraq:

• Budget: Al-Mafraq Hotel (JOD 20–30/night, basic rooms near the city centre).
• Mid-range: Grand Mafraq Hotel (JOD 40–60/night, clean rooms and restaurant, 10 min drive from camp).
• Upscale: Most visitors stay in Amman (JOD 60–150/night, 1 hr drive) at hotels like the Amman Marriott or Kempinski Amman.

The Champs-Élysées market offers Syrian handicrafts, embroidered textiles, olive-oil soap, spices (including za'atar and sumac), and traditional sweets like baklava and knafeh. Many items are made by refugees in the camp. Bargaining is expected in the market stalls. Proceeds directly support refugee families.

• Mafraq (10 km west, 15 min) — the nearest city with souqs, restaurants, bus connections, and the Mafraq Archaeological Museum.
• Umm el-Jimal (25 km northwest, 30 min) — a remarkable late Roman/Byzantine/early Islamic "black basalt" town with well-preserved ruins and a small museum.
• Jerash (75 km southwest, 1 hr) — one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, with its colonnaded cardo, theatres, and Hadrian's Arch.
• Amman (80 km southwest, 1.5 hr) — Jordan's capital, with the Citadel, Roman Theatre, Jordan Museum, and vibrant food scene.
• Azraq Wetland Reserve (90 km southeast, 1.25 hr) — a desert oasis with birdwatching and a visitor centre, near the Azraq Refugee Camp.