Cles

Cles is the administrative capital of the Val di Non, a broad, sun-drenched valley that fans out northwest of Trento in the Trentino province of northern Italy. The town sits at about 660 m elevation on a gentle plateau above the left bank of the Noce river, with the pale limestone peaks of the Brenta Dolomites and the Maddalene range framing the skyline. Around 7,500 people live in the comune, but Cles functions as the service centre for the entire valley — some 25,000 residents spread across apple orchards and small villages — so its Wednesday market, supermarkets, and municipal offices draw a much larger daily population.

Cles has deep roots. Archaeologists found the Tabula Clesiana here in 1869 — a bronze tablet inscribed with a 46 AD edict of Emperor Claudius granting Roman citizenship to the Anauni, a local Alpine tribe. The discovery underscored how thoroughly the Romans integrated these valleys after conquering the Alpine peoples in the late 1st century BC. The medieval town grew around a castle and the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta; today the historic core is a tight knot of stone houses, painted façades, and narrow lanes opening onto the Piazza Municipio.

The valley's modern identity revolves around apples. Val di Non is Italy's single largest apple-growing district, producing the famous Melinda-brand apples (Renetta Canada, Golden Delicious, Fuji, and others) on hundreds of hectares of trellised orchards that turn the valley floor pink-and-white in April and gold-and-red in September-October. Tourism is growing but remains secondary — Cles is a working town, not a resort, and that is part of its charm. Expect real Trentino daily life, quiet evenings, and straightforward hospitality rather than nightlife or boutique shopping.

Winters are cold (averaging -2 to 3 °C in January) with periodic snowfall, especially above 800 m. Summers are warm and pleasant (July averages 20-22 °C) with afternoon thunderstorms common in June-July. Spring and autumn are mild but can be damp. The valley floor is less exposed to the biting cold of higher Alpine towns because the broad valley catches more sun.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Verona Villafranca (VRN), about 140 km south and roughly 1 hr 40 min by car via the A22 Brenner motorway. Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY) is 200 km away (2 hr by car). From outside Italy, Innsbruck (INN) in Austria is 190 km north via the Brenner Pass (about 2 hr). There is no direct public transport from any of these airports to Cles; the practical approach is to rent a car at the airport. Alternatively, take a bus or train to Trento (see below) and continue by local bus or taxi.

By Train

Cles does not have a mainline railway station. The nearest major station is Trento (Trento FTM) on the Brenner line (Verona–Brenner–Innsbruck), served by Trenitalia Frecce/Regionale and ÖBB Eurocity trains. From Trento, the Trentino Trasporti bus 601 (Trento–Malè–Cles) runs roughly hourly during the day, taking about 50 min. The old Val di Non railway (Ferrovia Trento–Malè) was converted to a bus service decades ago; there is no rail link into the valley. Buy bus tickets at tobacco shops (tabacchi) or on the Trentino Trasporti app; validate on board.

By Car / Road

Cles is reached from Trento by heading north on the SS43 (Val di Non road) through the Val dell'Adige, then turning west at San Michele all'Adige onto the SS43bis. The drive is about 40 km and takes 40-50 min. From Bolzano, take the A22 south to the San Michele all'Adige exit and follow signs to Val di Non (about 60 km, 1 hr). From the Brenner Pass, head south on the A22 to the same exit. Roads are well-maintained two-lane highways through the valley; winter tyres or chains are required by law from mid-November to mid-April. Parking in Cles centre is limited but there are free lots on the town's edges with short walks to the centre.

Cles is small enough to explore on foot — the historic centre, main square, and lakeside promenade are all within a 10-15 min walk. The town has no internal bus system; the Trentino Trasporti inter-town buses (lines 601, 603, and others) connect Cles to surrounding villages like Malè (8 km), Cavalese direction, and smaller Val di Non hamlets. Buses run roughly hourly on weekdays, less frequently on Saturdays, and very little on Sundays. There is no ride-hailing app presence; taxis can be booked by phone through local operators (ask your hotel). Cycling is popular — flat valley-bottom roads connect apple orchards and villages, and e-bike rental is available through some hotels and tourist offices. For the more remote attractions (Lago di Tovel, Gole del Novella), a car is strongly recommended.

• Museo Retico (Palazzo Assessorile) — Cles's main museum, housed in a 14th-century palace on the main square. Covers the archaeology of the Val di Non from prehistory through the Roman period. The star exhibit is a cast (and detailed history) of the Tabula Clesiana. Also displays Iron Age and Roman artefacts from local excavations. Open Tue–Sun, usually 10:00–12:30 and 14:30–18:00 (reduced hours in winter). Admission around €5.

• Parrocchiale di Santa Maria Assunta — The parish church on the main square, with a tall bell tower visible across the valley. The current building dates from the 18th century but the site has held a church since at least the 13th century. Notable for its Baroque interior and altar paintings.

• Castel Cles — The ruins of the medieval castle that once controlled the valley sit on a hill above town. Only fragments of walls remain, but the site offers panoramic views of the valley and the Brenta Dolomites. Free access, reachable on foot in about 15 min from the centre.

• Lago di Santa Giustina — An artificial reservoir about 3 km south of Cles, created by a dam on the Noce river. The turquoise water set against sheer rock walls is striking. A lakeside path runs along part of the shore; the 16th-century Sanctuary of San Romedio perches on a rocky spur above the lake's eastern edge (see below).

• Santuario di San Romedio — A remarkable hermitage built into a cliff face above Lago di Santa Giustina, about 5 km from Cles. Five small chapels stacked vertically are connected by stairs carved into the rock, dating from the 11th to 20th centuries. A famous legend holds that San Romedio tamed a bear that had killed his mule. Free to visit; open daily. A 15-min walk from the car park.

• Gole del Novella (Novella River Park) — A canyon carved by the Novella river, about 10 km north of Cles near the village of Revò. Walkways and ladders allow visitors to descend into the gorge. Guided visits only (usually April–October), bookable through the park website. Approximately €10 per adult.

• Hiking — Dozens of marked trails radiate from Cles into the surrounding hills. A gentle option is the lakeside walk around Lago di Santa Giustina (about 5 km, flat). More demanding routes climb to the Malga Tovel mountain hut above Lago di Tovel (about 2.5-3 hr ascent). The SAT (Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini) maintains trail markings and publishes maps — available at the tourist office.

• Apple-picking and orchard tours — In September-October several agriturismi in the Val di Non offer apple-harvesting experiences. The Melinda cooperative sometimes organises open days at its processing facilities. Check with the Val di Non tourist board for dates.

• Lago di Tovel — A spectacular mountain lake about 20 km north of Cles, once famous for turning red due to algal blooms (no longer the case). Surrounded by the Adamello Brenta Nature Park. Swimming is not permitted, but the setting is superb for photography and short walks. Reachable by car (30 min) or a long cycling day.

• Day trip to Trento — The provincial capital is 40 km south and offers the Museo delle Scienze (MUSE), designed by Renzo Piano, the Buonconsiglio Castle, and a lively historic centre. Reachable by bus 601 in under an hour.

• Via Ferrata and climbing — The Brenta Dolomites, about 30-40 km west, offer world-class via ferrata routes and rock climbing. Local guides operate from Madonna di Campiglio and Molveno. The Campanile Basso and Cima Tosa are classic objectives for experienced mountaineers.

• Wine tasting — The Val di Non and nearby Val di Cembra produce Nosiola (a crisp white grape unique to Trentino) and Müller-Thurgau. Several cantine are open for tastings by appointment.

Trentino cuisine is hearty Alpine fare with some Italian influences. Cles and the Val di Non have a handful of trattorias and agriturismi serving solid local food; fine dining options are limited.

• Canederli (bread dumplings, sometimes called knödel) — the quintessential Trentino first course, served in broth or with melted butter and sage. Fillings include speck (smoked ham), cheese, or spinach.
• Strangolapreti — spinach-and-bread gnocchi, typically dressed with brown butter and sage.
• Polenta — cornmeal porridge served with stewed meat, mushrooms, or cheese. Common on winter menus.
• Carne salada con fagioli — thinly sliced cured beef with beans, a Val di Non staple.

Restaurants and agriturismi to look for:

• Ristorante Pizzeria Cles (or similar — several pizzerie line the main roads in town) — affordable pizzas and simple pasta dishes, €8-14 for a pizza, €12-18 for a main course.
• Agriturismo options scattered around the valley (ask at the tourist office) — fixed-price lunch or dinner with multiple courses of farm-produced food, typically €25-40 per person including wine.
• Trattoria in a nearby village (e.g., in Malè, Revò, or Dimaro) — for a more traditional setting. Reservations recommended on weekends.

Vegetarian options are available but limited — polenta, strangolapreti, and mushroom dishes are the fallback. Vegan and gluten-free options are rare outside of Trento. A full meal with wine at a mid-range trattoria runs €25-35 per person.

The local drink is wine — Trentino's whites (Nosiola, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Grigio) are clean and refreshing; reds (Teroldego Rotaliano, Marzemino) are medium-bodied and pair well with local meats. Grappa is the after-dinner spirit of choice; small artisan distilleries produce excellent single-variety versions. Bars (bar/osteria) in Cles serve espresso, local wines by the glass, and beer (Birra Moretti or local craft options are increasingly available). Water from the tap is safe and excellent — Alpine spring water from the surrounding mountains. A glass of wine at a bar costs €3-5; an espresso about €1.20. Cles is a quiet town with no real nightlife scene; evenings are best spent over a long dinner with wine at an agriturismo.

• Budget: A few guesthouses and B&Bs in and around Cles offer rooms at €50-70 per night (e.g., B&B or affittacamere listings on Booking.com — search Cles or Val di Non). Hostel-style accommodation is scarce; the nearest hostel options are in Trento.
• Mid-range: Hotel La Perla (Cles) and similar 3-star hotels in the valley charge €80-120 per night for a double room including breakfast. Agriturismo stays (farmhouse B&Bs) in the surrounding villages are in the same range and often include dinner on request.
• Upscale: The Val di Non is not a luxury destination; for upscale stays, look to the nearby Val Rendena (Madonna di Campiglio area, about 40 km west) where 4-star and 5-star hotels cater to ski tourists. In the Val di Non itself, the best-rated agriturismo properties with mountain views and pool access run €120-160 per night.

Booking ahead is essential during the Christmas/New Year period and the July-August peak. Outside these windows, availability is generally good.

The Val di Non is synonymous with Melinda apples — buy them fresh at the Wednesday market in Cles or directly from roadside farm stalls (vendita diretta) along the valley roads. In autumn look for apple cakes, juices, ciders, and jams. Other local products: grappa (grape pomace spirit — Trentino distilleries are excellent), honey from valley apiaries (wildflower and chestnut varieties), Trentingrana (Trentino's version of Grana Padano cheese), and carne salada (air-cured beef, a Trentino specialty). The Wednesday morning market on and around Piazza Municipio is the main shopping event — fruit, cheese, clothing, and household goods. For more extensive shopping, head to Trento.

• Trento (40 km south, 40-50 min by bus) — the provincial capital: MUSE science museum, Buonconsiglio Castle, a handsome historic centre, and the best dining and shopping in the region.
• Lago di Tovel (20 km north, 30 min by car) — a stunning mountain lake in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park, ideal for a half-day excursion.
• Madonna di Campiglio (40 km west, about 50 min by car) — Trentino's premier ski resort in winter and hiking base in summer, set beneath the Brenta Dolomites.
• Bolzano / Bozen (70 km northeast, about 1 hr by car) — the bilingual capital of Alto Adige/Südtirol, home to the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (hosting Ötzi the Iceman) and excellent shopping.
• Val di Sole (continues west from Malè, 15 min from Cles) — a wider valley with rafting on the Noce river, the Pejo thermal baths, and access to the Stelvio National Park.
• Molveno (30 km southwest, 35 min by car) — a pretty lakeside village at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites with swimming, windsurfing, and panoramic hiking.