Kuno National Park

Kuno National Park sits in the Sheopur district of north-western Madhya Pradesh, on the boundary with Rajasthan, in the basin of the Kuno River that gives the park its name. Once part of the larger Kuno Wildlife Division, it was upgraded to national park status and covers roughly 750 sq km of core area, set within a wider protected landscape of dry deciduous forest, grassland and rugged ravines. The terrain is dominated by kardhai, salai and khair trees, open savanna-like meadows and rocky outcrops — habitat that historically supported a rich grassland fauna.

Kuno's fame is recent and international. In the 1990s it was selected and prepared as a second home for Asiatic lions, which survive only in Gujarat's Gir forest; villages were relocated to make room, though the lion translocation stalled for decades. Instead, in September 2022 Kuno became the site of Project Cheetah, India's reintroduction of the cheetah — a species declared extinct in the country in 1952. Cheetahs flown in from Namibia and South Africa were released into enclosures and then into the wild here, making Kuno the only place in Asia where you can hope to see the cheetah. The park also holds leopard, striped hyena, jackal, sloth bear, chital, sambar, nilgai, chinkara and wild pig, along with a healthy bird population.

The climate is typical of north Madhya Pradesh: hot, dry summers (April–June) with temperatures often above 40°C, a monsoon (July–September) when the park is generally closed, and a cool, pleasant winter (November–February) that is by far the best time to visit. The park usually opens to tourism from around October to June.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Gwalior Airport (IATA: GWL), about 165–180 km away, with flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Indore and other Indian cities. From Gwalior it is roughly a 4–5 hour drive by taxi to the Kuno gates near Sheopur. Wider options are available from Jaipur (Sanganer, JAI), around 250 km, and Bhopal (BHO).

By Train

There is no railhead at the park itself. Gwalior Junction is the most convenient major railway station, well connected on the Delhi–Bhopal–Mumbai trunk route, about 165 km away. Sheopur town lies on a former narrow-gauge line, but most travellers use Gwalior and continue by road. Book onward taxis in advance, as local transport near the park is limited.

By Car / Road

Most visitors arrive by road. From Gwalior it is about 165 km (4–5 hours) via Sheopur; from Jaipur around 250 km; from Kota in Rajasthan roughly 180 km. Roads are mostly two-lane state highways of moderate quality that pass through small towns and farmland. A self-drive or a hired car with driver is the norm. There is no significant scheduled bus service to the park gates; state buses run to Sheopur town, from where you must arrange a local vehicle.

Inside the park, private vehicles are not allowed on safari; you travel in registered open-top safari jeeps (Gypsies) with an authorised driver and a forest guide, booked through the park's safari system. Outside the park, distances between Sheopur town, the gates and the scattered lodges are covered by your own hired car or the lodge's vehicle. There is no metro, ride-hailing app coverage is patchy to non-existent, and autorickshaws are found only in Sheopur town. Arrange all transfers and safaris through your accommodation in advance.

• Cheetah enclosures and release zones — the reason most visitors come. Cheetahs are managed across large bomas and free-ranging areas; sightings are not guaranteed and are subject to forest-department rules, but Kuno is the only place in Asia to try. Viewing is via official safari only.
• Kuno River and its meadows — the open grassland along the river is the park's scenic heart and the best area for plains game such as chital, nilgai and chinkara.
• Leopard and sloth-bear country — the rocky ravines and forested slopes hold a strong leopard population and sloth bears, often seen on morning drives.
• Birdlife — the park and its water bodies attract raptors, peafowl, storks, and a range of woodland and grassland species; good for birders on slower drives.

Safari permits, timings and the open season are set by the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department; confirm current entry points, fees and whether cheetah-zone access is open before you travel.

• Jeep safaris — morning and afternoon game drives are the core activity; book ahead as vehicle numbers are capped.
• Wildlife photography — the open meadows and good light make Kuno rewarding for photographers, especially for cheetah, leopard and grassland deer.
• Birdwatching — slower, dedicated birding drives or walks in buffer areas (where permitted) are excellent in winter.
• Day trips to nearby heritage — combine the park with the historic sites around Gwalior and Shivpuri en route.

Dining is centred almost entirely on the safari lodges and a few simple eateries in Sheopur. Lodges typically serve buffet-style Indian meals — dal, seasonal sabzi, roti, rice and a meat or paneer dish — along with basic continental options for breakfast. The regional cuisine is north Madhya Pradesh / Malwa-influenced and largely vegetarian; expect hearty dal-bati, kadhi and local breads. For a meal:

• Your lodge dining room — the most reliable option; most stays are full-board.
• Dhabas on the Sheopur–Gwalior road — simple, fresh North Indian thalis and parathas en route.
• Sheopur town eateries — basic vegetarian restaurants for thalis and snacks.

Vegetarian food is everywhere and is the default; tell your lodge in advance about specific dietary needs, as supply options near the park are limited.

Non-alcoholic local drinks include masala chai, lassi, buttermilk (chhaas) and fresh lime soda, widely available at lodges and town stalls. Alcohol is generally limited to licensed lodges; do not expect bars near the park, and Sheopur is a small, conservative town. Tap water is not considered safe to drink — stick to sealed bottled water or lodge-provided filtered or boiled water, and carry enough for long safari drives.

• Budget: simple guesthouses and basic lodges in and around Sheopur town offer rooms at roughly ₹1,000–2,500 per night; standards are modest and primarily aimed at officials and traders rather than tourists.
• Mid-range: a small number of wildlife resorts and forest-edge lodges near the park gates offer comfortable cottages, typically in the ₹4,000–9,000 range, usually including meals and safari arrangements.
• Upscale: premium tented and cottage-style safari camps have opened around Kuno following the cheetah project, with full-board luxury rates that can run from roughly ₹15,000 upward per night. As the destination is new and fast-changing, confirm current properties, opening status and rates at the time of booking.

There are no tourist shopping districts at the park. In Sheopur town you can find everyday markets, and the region is known for Sheopur wood lacquerware and handicrafts, including lacquered toys and furniture in the Kota style. Tribal and rural crafts of the Sahariya community are sometimes available locally. Bargaining is normal in town markets; lodge gift counters are fixed-price. Carry cash, as card acceptance is limited.

• Gwalior (~165 km, 4–5 hr) — historic fort city with palaces, temples and a major railhead.
• Shivpuri (~110 km) — former Scindia summer capital with lakes and royal cenotaphs.
• Madhav National Park (near Shivpuri, ~110 km) — accessible smaller park combining wildlife with heritage.
• Kota, Rajasthan (~180 km) — Chambal riverfront, gardens and the Garadia Mahadev gorge.
• Ranthambore, Rajasthan (~250 km) — celebrated tiger reserve, a natural add-on for a wildlife circuit.
• Orchha (~200 km via Jhansi) — riverside town of cenotaphs and Bundela palaces.