Al Janūbī

Al Janūbī (the Southern Region) is one of Eritrea's six administrative regions, stretching across the southern highlands and descending toward the eastern escarpment. Its landscape is a mix of rolling green hills, fertile valleys, and rocky outcrops, with an elevation that gives it a temperate climate relative to the lowlands. As the agricultural heartland of Eritrea, the region produces much of the country's grain, vegetables, and livestock.

The region is historically significant, home to ancient settlements such as the Dʿmt and Aksumite ruins at Matara near Senafe. Al Janūbī's towns blend traditional Tigrinya culture with remnants of the Italian colonial period, visible in the architecture of towns like Dekemhare and Debarwa. Travel here offers a window into Eritrean rural life, with weekly markets, stone-house villages, and terraced farmland defining the landscape.

The best time to visit is during the dry season from October to April, when the highland climate is mild and roads are easily passable. The rainy season runs from June to September, turning the countryside lush green but making some unpaved roads difficult to navigate. Temperatures are cooler at higher elevations, so pack layers even in the dry season.

The main road connecting Asmara to the southern towns is paved and in reasonable condition. Buses and minibuses run between the region's towns, with Mendefera and Dekemhare serving as transport hubs. Louage (shared taxis) connect smaller towns and villages. Many roads in rural areas are unpaved, so travel times can be longer than distances suggest. A 4WD vehicle is recommended for exploring off the main routes.

• Mendefera — the regional capital, a market town with a notable weekly market and surrounding monasteries
• Adi Keyh — gateway to southern highland scenery and traditional Tigrinya villages
• Adi Quala — historic market town near the Ethiopian border
• Dekemhare — Italian-colonial planned town with a striking central square
• Debarwa — former regional capital with a 19th-century Italian fort
• Segeneyti — hillside town known for its dramatic escarpment views
• Areza — agricultural centre in the fertile southern highlands
• Senafe — base for visiting the ancient Matara archaeological site and the Hawulti obelisk
• Mayduma — small highland village with traditional stone architecture
• Tsorona — border town south of Senafe in a scenic mountain setting

Injera (a spongy flatbread) with zigni (spiced meat stew) is the staple across Al Janūbī. Regional specialties include shiro (chickpea stew), alicha (mild vegetable curry), and fresh dairy products from highland cattle. Roasted barley (kolo) is a popular snack. Market towns like Mendefera and Dekemhare have small restaurants serving Eritrean staples, with the freshest ingredients coming from the surrounding farmlands.

The majority of the population in Al Janūbī is Tigrinya-speaking and Christian (Eritrean Orthodox Tewahedo), with Muslim communities in some towns. Major celebrations include Meskel (Finding of the True Cross, September), Timkat (Epiphany, January), and Orthodox Easter and Christmas. Wedding celebrations can last for days and involve elaborate feasting and traditional music. The weekly markets (known as suq) are vibrant social gatherings.

• Visiting the ancient Aksumite ruins at Matara, including the 4th-century Hawulti obelisk
• Exploring the Italian colonial architecture of Dekemhare's planned town centre
• Hiking in the highland scenery around Senafe and the eastern escarpment
• Attending the weekly market in Mendefera for local crafts, produce, and livestock
• Visiting traditional Tigrinya stone-house villages (hidmo) in the countryside around Adi Keyh