Alexandria

Alexandria, Egypt's second-largest city with over five million residents, is the country's Mediterranean gateway and a place where layers of history are visible on every street corner. Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BCE, the city became the intellectual and cultural capital of the ancient world, home to the legendary Great Library and the Lighthouse of Alexandria—one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Though the original library and lighthouse are long gone, their legacy permeates the city's identity, and the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina stands as a bold reimagination of that ancient heritage.

The city stretches along a narrow strip of coastline between the Mediterranean Sea and the Nile Delta, with its east-west artery, the Corniche, running for roughly 30 kilometers. At the western end stands the Citadel of Qaitbay, built on the foundations of the ancient lighthouse, while the eastern districts extend toward the quieter fishing town of Abu Qir. Between them, the city's neighborhoods—from the historic Anfushi quarter to the modern San Stefano mall area—offer a mix of Ottoman, colonial, and contemporary architecture. Alexandria's climate is Mediterranean: hot, humid summers with temperatures averaging 31°C (88°F) and mild winters dipping to around 12°C (53°F), with occasional rain and hail. Spring (March–June) and autumn (September–November) are the most pleasant times to visit, while summer brings Egyptian vacationers fleeing Cairo's searing heat.

What makes Alexandria distinctive is its cosmopolitan past and present. Once home to thriving Greek, Italian, Jewish, and Armenian communities, the city's cultural fabric remains woven with diverse influences visible in its cuisine, architecture, and street life. While Nasser-era nationalization emptied much of this diversity in the 1950s, the spirit endures in the city's cafés, its literary tradition—immortalized by poet Constantine P. Cavafy—and in the warmth of its residents, who navigate a city that is simultaneously chaotic, charming, and deeply historic.

By Plane

Alexandria is served by Borg El Arab Airport (HBE), located approximately 45 km southwest of the city center. The airport handles domestic flights from Cairo, Luxor, Hurghada, and Sharm el-Sheikh, with Egyptair as the primary operator, along with Air Cairo, Air Arabia, Nile Air, and FlyEgypt. International flights arrive from Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), Jeddah (Saudia), and Gulf destinations. There is no public airport shuttle; a taxi to downtown takes 60–90 minutes and costs around LE400 or more. Cairo International Airport (CAI) is a common entry point, with onward travel to Alexandria by train or car.

By Train

The train is the most convenient way to reach Alexandria from Cairo, with approximately 30 daily services. The fastest "Special" trains run non-stop in about 2 hours 40 minutes, while "Express" services stop only at Tanta and take around 3 hours. Trains depart from Ramses Station in Cairo and arrive at Misr Station in downtown Alexandria, where taxis and microbuses await. For foreigners, one-way AC2 tickets cost approximately $35 USD and AC1 tickets $40 USD (as of October 2025). Sidi Gaber station, 3 km east of Misr Station, serves eastern neighborhoods like San Stefano—confirm your train's final stop before disembarking. Trains also run from Marsa Matruh and Delta towns, though these are slower "ordinary" services.

By Car / Road

Driving from Cairo to Alexandria takes about 2.5 hours via the Cairo–Alexandria Desert Road (approximately 220 km), a well-maintained highway. Several bus companies operate air-conditioned services from Cairo at prices ranging from LE100–300, including Go Bus, Golden Arrow, West Delta, and Super Jet. These buses are comfortable and include hostess service. From the north coast (Marsa Matruh), the drive is about 300 km eastward along the coastal road. Driving within Alexandria itself is chaotic; parking is scarce, and most visitors find taxis or ride-hailing services more practical.

Alexandria's transportation is funneled along the Corniche corridor, making it easy to find taxis, buses, and microbuses heading in your direction—you rarely wait more than a minute. The city's tram system, Egypt's oldest (dating to 1860), runs parallel to the Corniche a block or two inland, serving the city center and eastern districts, though it is slow and often crowded. Taxis are plentiful and affordable; always agree on a fare before departing or insist on the meter. Ride-hailing apps Uber and Careem operate throughout the city and offer a reliable, metered alternative.

Walking is viable along the Corniche and through the central districts, particularly around Saad Zaghloul Square and the waterfront areas. The city is not particularly pedestrian-friendly beyond these zones, with uneven sidewalks and aggressive traffic. Tuk-tuks are less common in Alexandria than in Cairo but can be found in some neighborhoods. For day trips to Abu Qir or Borg El Arab, hired taxis are the most practical option, as public transit is infrequent.

Historical Sites

• Citadel of Qaitbay — a 15th-century fortress built on the site of the ancient Lighthouse of Alexandria, offering panoramic Mediterranean views. Open daily; entry approximately LE100 for foreigners.
• Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa — underground burial chambers blending Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artistic styles, dating to the 1st–2nd century CE. A fascinating fusion of cultures in stone.
• Pompey's Pillar — a 25-meter granite column from the 3rd century CE, actually a victory monument for Emperor Diocletian, standing in the Kom el-Dikka archaeological area.
• Roman Amphitheatre (Kom el-Dikka) — a well-preserved 2nd-century Roman theater with marble seating, located near Pompey's Pillar.

Museums

• Bibliotheca Alexandrina — the modern incarnation of the ancient Library of Alexandria, featuring a striking contemporary building, exhibitions on ancient manuscripts, and a stunning main reading room. Open daily; entry approximately LE200.
• Royal Jewelry Museum — housed in a former palace in the Zamalek district, displaying an extraordinary collection of royal jewelry and artifacts from the Muhammad Ali dynasty.
• Greco-Roman Museum — recently renovated, showcasing Alexandria's Greco-Roman heritage with artifacts spanning centuries of the city's cosmopolitan past.

Neighborhoods & Districts

• Corniche — the iconic waterfront promenade stretching along the Mediterranean, perfect for people-watching and sunset views.
• Anfushi — the historic quarter built on the ancient causeway to Pharos island, with traditional architecture and a blend of Ottoman and Islamic influences.
• El-Manshia — the central district around Saad Zaghloul Square, home to shops, cafés, and the main commercial area.

Walk the Corniche at sunset for the quintessential Alexandria experience, watching the light turn golden over the Mediterranean as locals gather for evening strolls. Take a boat trip from the eastern harbor to see the city from the water, or visit the fish market near the harbor for a glimpse of daily maritime life. Explore the backstreets of Anfushi and Al-Raml on foot, discovering hidden cafés, antique shops, and art galleries that capture the city's bohemian spirit.

For day trips, head to Abu Qir (25 km east) to visit the site of the 1798 Battle of the Nile and enjoy quieter beaches, or drive to Borg El Arab for a more modern, less crowded experience. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina hosts regular cultural events, concerts, and film screenings—check their calendar for what's on during your visit. At night, the waterfront cafés along the Corniche come alive with locals smoking shisha, drinking tea, and watching the sea.

Alexandrian cuisine is distinct within Egypt, shaped by Mediterranean trade and multicultural influences. The city is famous for its fresh seafood, particularly grilled fish and calamari prepared with lemon, garlic, and cumin. Koshari—a hearty mix of rice, lentils, pasta, and tomato sauce—is an Egyptian staple done especially well here. Ta'ameya (Alexandria's version of falafel, made with fava beans rather than chickpeas) is lighter and greener than its Cairo counterpart and is a must-try.

Budget: Al-Sayad (the Fisherman) near the western harbor serves excellent grilled fish at affordable prices, with outdoor seating overlooking the water. For street food, try the ta'ameya sandwiches from vendors around Saad Zaghloul Square.

Mid-range: Fish Market restaurants along the eastern harbor offer fresh catches prepared to order, with platters ranging from LE200–400. Athineos, a historic Greek-influenced restaurant on the Corniche, serves a mix of Mediterranean and Egyptian dishes in a charming old-world setting.

Upscale: Bibliotheca Café, inside the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, offers fine dining with views of the harbor. The restaurant at the Hilton Alexandria Corniche serves international cuisine with a Mediterranean focus.

Vegetarian options are plentiful, especially in the form of bean-based dishes, falafel, and fresh salads. Halal is standard across all establishments. Pork is not widely available.

Alexandria's café culture is central to its social life. Turkish coffee and strong black tea (shai) are served everywhere, from grand old cafés to simple street-side stalls. The waterfront cafés along the Corniche are particularly atmospheric, offering shisha (hookah) alongside drinks as the sun sets over the Mediterranean. Al-Sayad Café and the historic Fishawi Café in the old quarter are worth seeking out for their traditional ambiance.

Alcohol is available in hotels, upscale restaurants, and some bars, though Alexandria is more conservative than Cairo in this regard. The bars at the Hilton Corniche and the Winter Palace are reliable options. For non-alcoholic options, fresh sugarcane juice, hibiscus (karkade) drink, and tamarind juice are refreshing local favorites. Tap water is not safe to drink; stick to bottled water, which is widely available and inexpensive.

Budget: Iberia Hotel, near Misr Station, offers basic but clean rooms in a central location from approximately LE500–800 per night. Sea Garden Hotel, a short walk from the Corniche, provides budget-friendly accommodation with sea views from around LE600.

Mid-range: Hotel Royal Alexandrian, on the Corniche, offers comfortable rooms with Mediterranean views from approximately LE1,500–2,500 per night. The Helnan Palestine Hotel, a historic property with a seafront location, provides mid-range rooms from around LE1,800–3,000.

Upscale / Heritage: Hilton Alexandria Corniche is the city's premier international hotel, with sea-view rooms, multiple restaurants, and a central Corniche location from approximately LE4,000–7,000 per night. The Sofitel Cecil Alexandria, a restored 1920s landmark on the Corniche, offers boutique luxury with period details from around LE5,000–8,000.

Alexandria's shopping scene ranges from bustling souks to modern malls. The Al-Raml Station area and the streets around Saad Zaghloul Square offer a traditional market experience with textiles, spices, leather goods, and souvenirs. Bargaining is expected in these areas—start at roughly half the asking price and negotiate from there. For a more contemporary shopping experience, San Stefano Plaza in the eastern district features international brands and a waterfront setting.

Local specialties worth seeking out include Alexandria's famous attar (perfume) oils, available in the old perfume shops of the city center, and traditional copper and brass handicrafts. The fish markets near the harbor sell fresh catches and dried fish products. For unique souvenirs, look for handmade jewelry, embroidered textiles, and locally produced olive oil and soap.

• Cairo (220 km, 2.5 hours by car or train) — Egypt's sprawling capital, home to the Pyramids of Giza, the Egyptian Museum, and Khan el-Khalili bazaar.
• Marsa Matruh (300 km west, 4 hours by car) — a Mediterranean beach town with crystal-clear waters and a more relaxed pace.
• Al Alamein (110 km west, 1.5 hours by car) — site of the famous World War II battle, with Commonwealth war cemeteries and the new Al Alamein International Airport.
• Port Said (280 km east, 3 hours by car) — the northern entrance to the Suez Canal, with a waterfront promenade and duty-free shopping.
• Rosetta (Rashid) (65 km east, 1 hour by car) — the historic town where the Rosetta Stone was discovered, with Ottoman-era architecture and a quieter atmosphere.