Zarcero

Zarcero is a picturesque mountain town in the highlands of Alajuela Province, perched at about 1,700 metres elevation. The town is famous for its whimsical topiary garden in the central park, where hedges have been sculpted into fantastical shapes — animals, faces, archways, and abstract forms — for decades by local gardener Evangelisto Blanco. The cool mountain air, dairy farming culture, and striking scenery make Zarcero a delightful off-the-beaten-path stop.

The climate is cool and misty, with temperatures ranging from 12–22 °C. Mornings are often clear with cloud cover rolling in by afternoon. The surrounding landscape is dominated by dairy farms, potato fields, and vegetable gardens. Zarcero is also known for its locally produced cheese, particularly the artisanal queso palmito (a stringy, mozzarella-like cheese).

The town is small but well-kept, with a colonial-era church and a handful of shops and restaurants. It makes an excellent stopover between the Central Valley and the Arenal/La Fortuna area.

By Plane

Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO IATA) is approximately 65 km south, about 1.5 hours by car.

By Train

By Car / Road

From Alajuela, take Route 707 north through Naranjo — approximately 50 km, about 1–1.5 hours on winding mountain roads. From Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos), Zarcero is about 30 minutes south via Route 707. No direct bus service from San José; take a bus to Naranjo and then a local connection, or drive.

Zarcero is tiny and entirely walkable. The town centre, topiary park, church, and shops are all within a few blocks of each other. A car is needed for exploring the surrounding countryside.

• Parque Francisco Alvarado (Topiary Garden) — The star attraction. Evangelisto Blanco has been sculpting the cypress hedges since the 1960s, creating a surreal landscape of green shapes. Free, open daily.

• Iglesia de Zarcero — A charming pink-and-white church facing the topiary park, built in the late 19th century.

• Miradores (Viewpoints) — Several viewpoints around town offer sweeping views of the San Carlos valley and, on clear days, Arenal Volcano in the distance.

• Dairy farms — The surrounding countryside is dotted with dairy farms producing artisanal cheeses.

• Photograph the topiary — The garden is a photographer's paradise, with shapes ranging from elephants and rabbits to abstract arches you can walk through.

• Cheese tasting — Visit a local dairy or the small cheese shops in town to sample queso palmito and other local varieties.

• Hiking — Cool mountain trails wind through dairy country and patches of cloud forest.

• Day trip to Bajos del Toro — A nearby valley with spectacular waterfalls, including the 90-metre Catarata del Toro, the tallest accessible waterfall in Costa Rica.

• Restaurante Zarcero — Traditional Tico food with mountain views. Casados ₡2,500–3,500.
• Soda El Topiario — Small family-run restaurant near the park with home-cooked meals and fresh cheese dishes.
• Local bakeries — Fresh bread, pastries, and coffee for a quick, cheap meal.

The cool climate is ideal for hot coffee — try it at any local soda. Fresh milk from nearby dairy farms is also excellent. Imperial and Pilsen beers are available. Tap water is safe.

Budget:

• Hotel Zarcero — Simple rooms near the central park. From US$25–30.

Mid-range:

• Cabinas de Montaña — Mountain cabins in the surrounding area with views and fireplaces. From US$50–70.
• B&B options — Several family-run B&Bs in the hills around Zarcero. From US$40.

Artisanal cheeses (queso palmito, queso Turrialba) are the highlight — buy directly from producers or at the small shops in town. Fresh vegetables and potatoes from the highland farms are also excellent.

• Bajos del Toro (30 min east) — Spectacular waterfalls including the 90-metre Catarata del Toro.
• Naranjo (20 min south) — Coffee-growing town on the Interamericana.
• Ciudad Quesada / San Carlos (30 min north) — Gateway to Arenal Volcano and the northern lowlands.
• Sarchí (15 min southeast) — Famous artisan town with painted oxcarts.
• Arenal / La Fortuna (1.5 hours north) — Volcano, hot springs, and adventure activities.