Putre

Putre is a small Aymara highland village in the Arica y Parinacota Region of far northern Chile, perched at roughly 3,500 m (11,500 ft) on the western edge of the Andes. Backed by the snow-streaked Taapaca volcanic complex, it serves as the natural staging post for travellers heading into Lauca National Park — and, crucially, as the place to spend a night acclimatising before pushing higher to lakes and passes above 4,500 m. The settlement has deep colonial roots: founded as a stopping point on the silver route between the highlands and the coast, it preserves carved stone portals and window sills dating to the 17th century, when the village saw its greatest economic boom, reused in the predominantly 19th-century houses that line its streets today.

The town centres on a well-kept, tree-shaded plaza ringed by the municipality, the regional government building, the Parinacota radio station, the church and the parish house. From the village you look north over the terraced ravine of the Chilcacahua river, planted with alfalfa, oregano, potatoes and other vegetables, while corrals of llamas and alpacas sit at the entrance to town. It remains genuinely small and quiet — its appeal is the setting, the slower altiplano rhythm, and the access it gives to one of Chile's most spectacular protected areas.

Climate: Putre has a high-plateau climate typical of the Chilean–Bolivian altiplano. Rain is far more frequent from December to March (the "Bolivian winter" / invierno altiplánico), when afternoon storms can close the access road. Summer temperatures rarely top 20 °C, and even in winter hard frost in town is uncommon by day — but autumn and winter nights regularly fall below freezing. For settled weather and the clearest views of Lauca, the dry months from roughly April to November are ideal; if you come in the rainy season, build in flexibility for road delays and closures.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Chacalluta International Airport (ARI) in Arica, on the coast about 130–140 km west of Putre. There is no direct public transport from the airport to Putre; you would travel first to Arica (a short taxi ride from the airport into the city) and then continue uphill by bus, shared transfer or car as below.

By Car / Road

Putre lies about 130–140 km east of Arica via national highway Ruta 11 (CH-11), the paved international road toward the Bolivian border. In theory it's a 2.5-hour drive, but roadworks commonly add about an hour, and the road is sometimes closed for an entire afternoon — try to check conditions before setting out. There are no filling stations in Putre or anywhere along the road, so fill up in Arica; locals may sell fuel from a jerry can if you ask around, though carrying fuel in containers inside a car is reportedly illegal in Chile.

By bus: La Paloma runs daily from Arica (departing around 06:50, except 25 Dec and 1 Jan), returning from Putre to Arica daily at about 14:00. Their station is not the main bus terminal — check the current location in advance, though as of 2025 they also had a ticket office in the main terminal. International buses between Arica and La Paz, Bolivia run daily and stop at "Alto Putre," a junction about 5 km uphill from the village (cost roughly 10,000 pesos as of April 2025); from there you'll walk the last stretch unless your accommodation arranges a pickup. Book these at the row of ticket offices at the outdoor "International Terminal" across from Arica's main terminal, and confirm times carefully — many departures are overnight, but there are usually morning or midday options too.

By taxi: From Arica the fare is around 70,000 pesos.

Putre is small and easily walkable — the plaza, church, restaurants and most lodgings are within a few minutes of each other on foot. There is no local bus or metro system. To reach Lauca National Park, Salar de Surire and other altiplano sights you'll want a tour or private transport, as distances are long and there is no scheduled service to the park's interior viewpoints.

Local operators handle this. Mr. Oriolf (+56 9 928 26 194) runs a friendly tour outfit in town, taking groups of up to five through Parque Nacional Lauca (around 45,000 pesos) and out to Salar de Surire, including some off-the-beaten-track stops where you'll see flamingos, alpacas and vicuñas. Terrace Lodge & Tours takes up to four people to most destinations in the region. Given the altitude, the lack of fuel stations, and occasional road closures, going with a local guide is the simplest and safest way to see the park.

• Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Church of Putre) — The village's centrepiece, a National Monument. First built in 1670 to replace an earlier church destroyed by earthquake, its stone façade, choir and exterior enclosure date from an 1871 restoration, while the bell tower is older still. The adobe nave runs 33 m long and 6 m high; the light-blue painted stone altarpiece dates from 1895, and the choir is reached by a stone stair through the baptistery. On the main plaza.
• Calle O'Higgins — The oldest street in the village, with a central ditch (acequión) crossed by stone-bench bridges. Look for the carved 17th-century stone portals and window sills reused in the surrounding houses.
• The Plaza de Armas — A leafy, well-tended square ringed by the municipality, the regional government building, the Parinacota radio station, the church and parish house; the social heart of town.
• Chilcacahua river terraces — Visible north of town, terraced fields of alfalfa, oregano, potatoes and vegetables, with llama and alpaca corrals at the village entrance.

Parque Nacional Lauca (east of Putre)

• Lago Chungará — At about 4,520 m, one of the highest lakes in the world, with a spectacular view of the perfectly conical Parinacota volcano and abundant birdlife. Early morning is the best time to visit.

• Cotacotani Lagoons — A scattering of lagoons amid lava fields; you can walk down to them, or continue about 9.5 km through the lagoons to the village of Parinacota with its four-centuries-old church.

• Sector Las Cuevas — Best in the afternoon, when vicuñas graze as close as 15 m and chinchilla-like viscachas appear among the rocks.

• Wildlife — Vicuñas, guanacos, domestic llamas, viscachas, flamingos, Andean geese and, occasionally, condors.

• Acclimatise and hike — The chief reason most travellers stay in Putre is to adjust to the altitude before heading higher into Lauca. Easy walks around town and the river terraces help; from the park, walk the edge of Lago Chungará or down to the Cotacotani lagoons.

• Soak at Termas de Jurasi — Hot pools a few kilometres above Putre; the access road forks off the main Lauca highway at a signposted junction. Entry around 3,000 pesos.

• Guided park and salar tours — Full-day trips into Lauca National Park and out to Salar de Surire with local operators (see Get Around).

• Time your visit to a festival — The church's main celebrations are Carnival (February), the Virgen de la Asunta (15 August), Cristo Rey (last Sunday of October) and Pachayampe, the potato festival (first week of November).

⚠️ If you plan to hike off the beaten track, discuss your route with locals or authorities first: there are minefields in border areas.

Food in Putre is hearty highland fare built around local produce and meat. The two specialties to look for are alpaca meat and llaita (a freshwater algae). Several small restaurants serve a standard set menú of typical Chilean dishes for about 5,000–5,500 pesos, usually including soup; at least one stays open until around 21:00. Options are limited and largely concentrated near the plaza, so don't expect late dining or extensive choice — vegetarians can generally rely on soups, eggs and the local vegetables grown on the river terraces, but should ask ahead.

The drinks to know in Putre are the local altitude remedies: mate de coca and mate de chachacoma, hot herbal infusions that ease symptoms of altitude sickness — you can sometimes order a blend of the two. These are widely served and worth ordering on arrival to help you settle. Tap water at altitude should be treated with caution; carry or buy bottled water, and stay well hydrated to counter the dry, thin air.

Accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses with shared bathrooms, no breakfast and no heating, to more comfortable hostels and lodges. Because of the altitude (about 3,550 m) and sub-freezing autumn and winter nights, a heated room is worth paying for if your budget allows.

Budget

• Hostal Cali — Rustic but tidy, bright and clean, with rooms opening onto a sunny courtyard. No heating in the rooms, but a good hot shower. From 25,000 pesos for one person with shared bathroom. (updated Apr 2025)
• Hotel Cumbre Real (☏ +56 9 9011 0702) — 37,000 pesos for one person including breakfast; may offer something as low as 25,000 pesos if you ask. (updated Apr 2025)

(The "Pachamama Hostel" is reportedly no longer open, but worth checking.)

Mid-range / Upscale

• La Chakana (☏ +56 9 9745 9519) — A couple of bungalows in a quiet setting about 10 minutes' walk from the village centre, each with a spacious heated room and private bathroom. Notably generous breakfast: assorted cereals, marmalade, cheese and sausage, fruit juice and yoghurt.
• Terrace Lodge & Tours — Twin and double rooms with heating, en-suite bathrooms and other amenities; also runs regional tours.

Putre's signature buy is alpaca wool — knitwear, hats, gloves and woven goods, well suited to the cold altiplano nights. Shopping is informal and small-scale; you'll find items around the plaza and from local artisans rather than in dedicated shops.

• Lauca National Park (just east) — The headline excursion: Lago Chungará, the Parinacota volcano and altiplano wildlife; best done as a day trip after acclimatising in Putre.
• Parinacota village (~9.5 km walk via the Cotacotani lagoons, inside the park) — A tiny altiplano hamlet with a four-centuries-old church.
• Salar de Surire (south, full-day trip) — A remote salt flat with flamingos, reachable on tours from Putre.
• Arica (~130–140 km west, ~2.5+ hrs by road) — The regional capital and coastal gateway, with the Morro headland, beaches and museums.
• La Paz, Bolivia (east via Ruta 11) — Reachable on the daily international buses that pass Alto Putre; a high-altitude continuation of the journey across the border.