Las Vicunas National Reserve

Las Vicuñas National Reserve protects over 210,000 hectares of high-altitude Andean steppe and bofedal (wetland) in the Arica y Parinacota Region, immediately east of Lauca National Park. Created in 1983, the reserve was designed specifically to protect the habitat of the vicuña (Vicugna vicugna), the wild Andean camelid whose fine wool is among the most valuable in the world.

The reserve occupies a remote, windswept plateau at elevations between 4,000 and 5,500 m, characterised by vast open plains, volcanic cones, salt flats (salares), and bright green bofedales fed by glacial meltwater. It is one of the least visited protected areas in northern Chile due to its extreme altitude and isolation, but it rewards visitors with extraordinary wildlife viewing and a sense of absolute solitude.

By Plane

Chacalluta International Airport (ARI) in Arica is 180 km west. From Arica, a bus to Putre (CLP 5,000–7,000, 2 hr), then onwards toward the reserve requires a tour or private transport.

By Car / Road

From Arica, take Route 11 east to Putre (130 km). Continue east through Lauca National Park to the reserve boundary at the Lagunas Cotacotani turnoff. The road is paved to Putre, then high-quality gravel. A 4x4 is recommended. From Putre, the reserve entrance is about 40 km east (45 min).

The reserve has no internal roads — travel is by 4x4 track or on foot. A guided tour from Putre is strongly recommended, as the terrain is trackless and GPS signal is unreliable. Most tours are full-day trips (08:00–17:00, CLP 80,000–120,000 per person).

• Vicuña herds: the reserve's main attraction. Vicuñas are most active in the morning (07:00–10:00) and late afternoon (16:00–18:00). Herds of 10–30 animals are common on the plains.

• Salar de Surire: a large salt flat at 4,250 m within the reserve, rimmed by volcanoes. Three species of flamingo (Andean, Chilean, James's) feed in its shallow lagoons.

• Bofedales: the emerald-green wetlands that dot the reserve, maintained by underground springs. These are the primary feeding grounds for vicuñas and also attract Andean geese, puna ibis, and vizcachas.

• Volcán Taapaca (5,860 m): a prominent cone visible from the western edge of the reserve.

• Termas de Polloquere: hot springs at 4,500 m, accessible by a spur track — a simple stone pool filled with hot geothermal water, with views of the Salar de Surire.

• Wildlife watching: the reserve is one of the best places in Chile to see vicuñas in the wild. Also look for vizcachas, Andean foxes, Andean condors, and the three flamingo species.

• Photography: the combination of amber plains, turquoise lakes, and snow-capped volcanoes is spectacular at sunrise and sunset.

• Hot springs: the Polloquere thermal baths are the only developed facility in the reserve. The water temperature is about 45°C. Bring a swimsuit and a towel.

• Hiking: the reserve has no marked trails, but the open terrain allows for cross-country hiking. Do not hike alone at this altitude (4,500 m+). Group trekking with a guide is the safest approach.

• Stargazing: the dark skies of the altiplano are legendary. The reserve is within the Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array (ALMA) dark-sky preserve.

No food is available. All meals must be carried in as a packed lunch or picnic. Most tours from Putre include a box lunch. Cooked food must be brought in a thermos or on a camping stove.

Carry all water. There are no potable water sources in the reserve — the bofedal water is not safe to drink without treatment. Coca tea from Putre helps with altitude acclimatisation.

There is no accommodation in the reserve. Stay in Putre (40 km west, 45 min):

• Budget: Hostal Putre (basic shared rooms, CLP 12,000–15,000 per person).
• Mid-range: Hotel Altipampa (CLP 45,000–60,000, heated rooms and hot water).
• Wild camping: permitted only with a CONAF permit (free, issued in Putre). Not recommended below 5,000 m due to extreme cold and wind.

There are no shops, services, or facilities of any kind in the reserve. Stock up on food, water, and fuel in Putre or Arica. The entry fee (CLP 3,000) is paid at the CONAF park office in Putre.

• Putre (40 km west, 45 min): the altiplano service town — markets, thermal springs, and the CONAF Lauca/Las Vicuñas office.
• Lauca National Park (adjacent to the west): Lake Chungará, the Parinacota volcano, and the Lagunas Cotacotani — a combined trip is natural.
• Parinacota (40 km northwest, 1 hr): the iconic white church village at the foot of Volcán Parinacota.
• Salar de Surire (within the reserve): the salt flat flamingo habitat and the Polloquere hot springs.
• Paso Chungará / Bolivia (80 km east): the international border crossing to Bolivia, leading toward Sajama National Park and the Bolivian altiplano.
• Arica (180 km west, 3 hr): the Pacific coast — beaches, museums, and the Chinchorro culture.