Khankendi

Khankendi (Azerbaijani: Xankəndi), formerly known as Stepanakert (Armenian: Ստեփանակերտ), is the capital of the Karabakh region of Azerbaijan. The city sits in a valley in the Lesser Caucasus mountains, surrounded by forested hills. According to local tradition, the settlement began as "Khan's village" (Xankəndi) in the 18th century under the Karabakh Khanate. It was later developed as the administrative centre of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Oblast under Soviet rule, with a master plan by the Armenian architect Alexander Tamanian.

The city was the de facto capital of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic for three decades until Azerbaijan restored control in September 2023. This history has shaped the city's character — much of the infrastructure and culture reflects its Armenian-administered period, but a large-scale reconstruction and repopulation effort is underway under Azerbaijani governance.

The climate is mild with warm summers (22–28°C) and cold winters (0–5°C, with occasional snow). Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are the best times to visit. Travel to Khankendi is currently restricted and requires official authorisation from the Azerbaijani government, typically through an organised tour.

By Plane

The nearby Stepanakert Airport (also known as Khankendi Airport) remains closed due to political and logistical reasons. The nearest operational airport is Ganja International Airport (GNJ), about 150 km north-west (2.5 hours by car).

By Car / Road

Access to Khankendi is via the road from Barda or Aghdam. From Baku, follow the M2 highway west to Barda (300 km, 4 hours), then turn south through Aghdam for approximately 35 km. The road from Aghdam to Khankendi was rebuilt in 2024. Travel to the city requires official permission and must be arranged through authorised channels — independent travel is not currently possible.

Khankendi is compact and walkable, with most sights concentrated in the central area around Renaissance Square. City bus lines operate on several routes. Taxis are available — agree on a fare in advance. The city layout follows the Soviet-era Tamanian grid plan.

• We Are Our Mountains Monument (Tatik & Papik) – the iconic large tuff stone sculpture of an elderly Karabakh couple, a symbol of the region, located on a hill overlooking the city.

• Renaissance Square – the central square of Khankendi, surrounded by government buildings and the Hotel Armenia.

• Khankendi City Park – a large green space with walking paths, fountains, and monuments.

• History Museum of Karabakh – housed in a former building, covering the ancient and modern history of the region. Hours vary with current administration.

• Walk the central boulevard – the main pedestrian street connects the square with the park and offers views of the surrounding mountains.

• Visit the Janapar Trail trailheads – the long-distance Janapar hiking trail passes through the area, with marked routes toward Shusha and nearby villages.

• Day trip to Shusha – the historic cultural capital of Karabakh, 15 km south, with its fortress, mosques, and museums.

• Restaurant "Karabakh" – a central restaurant serving Azerbaijani cuisine: plov, kebabs, and dolma. Mains 10–15 AZN.
• Tashir Pizza – a café offering pizza, salads, and soups in a casual setting. Mains 5–10 AZN.
• Local cafés – several small cafés around the square serve tea, qutab, and pastries.

Tea (çay) is served everywhere. Local fruit vodkas (oğu), particularly mulberry and apricot, are a regional speciality. Bottled water is widely available; avoid tap water.

• Budget: A few guesthouses offer rooms for 30–50 AZN. Availability is limited; arrange through your tour organiser.
• Mid-range: Hotel Khankendi (formerly Hotel Armenia) in Renaissance Square offers modern rooms with restaurant and pool. Doubles 80–120 AZN.
• Upscale: Park Hotel Karabakh offers higher-end accommodation with restaurant and business facilities. Doubles from 120 AZN.

• Khankendi Bazaar (former Stepanakert Shuka) – a market selling fresh and preserved fruits, vegetables, local honey, and traditional crafts.
• Souvenir shops – several shops in the central area sell Karabakh carpets, local vodka, and handicrafts.

• Shusha (15 km south, 20 min) – the historic fortress city and cultural heart of Karabakh, with Jidir Duzu plain and the Yukhari Govhar Agha Mosque.
• Aghdam (30 km east, 35 min) – the "Hiroshima of the Caucasus," a ghost town with the ruined Aghdam Mosque standing amid destroyed buildings.
• Barda (65 km north, 1 h) – historic town with the 14th-century Barda Mausoleum.
• Ganja (150 km north-west, 2.5 h) – Azerbaijan's second city, with the Nizami Mausoleum, bottle house, and parks.