Phitsanulok

Phitsanulok (พิษณุโลก) is a historic city in Lower Northern Thailand, roughly halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, with a population of around 80,000. It sits on the Nan River and serves as a regional commerce and transportation hub. Many travellers pass through on their way to and from northern Thailand, and it makes an excellent base for exploring the ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai.

The city dates back to the 10th century when the Khmer ruled the region. Originally called Song Khwae ("two rivers") for its position between the Nan and Khwae Noi rivers, the city was moved to its present location around 1357 by King Phra Maha Thammaracha Lithai of Sukhothai. During the Ayutthaya period it served as a strategic buffer town and even acted as the capital for 25 years under King Borommatrailokkanat. King Naresuan the Great raised troops from Phitsanulok to fight Burmese invasions and reclaim Siamese independence in 1584.

The climate is tropical savanna with three seasons: cool (Nov–Feb), hot (Mar–May), and rainy (Jun–Oct). The cool season is the most comfortable for sightseeing. The city centre is compact and walkable, with most attractions clustered along or near the Nan River.

By Plane

Phitsanulok Airport (PHS, พิษณุโลก) receives regular Nok Air flights from Bangkok Don Mueang (DMK) — about 50 minutes. Bus 4 and tuk-tuks (10–20 baht) connect the airport to the city centre.

By Train

Phitsanulok Railway Station is on the main Bangkok–Chiang Mai line, roughly halfway along the route, so travel times in both directions are about 5–7 hours. Several daily services run from Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) and Chiang Mai. Tuk-tuks wait outside the station to take passengers to the bus terminals or around town.

By Car / Road

Bus Terminal 1 (2 km east of the train station) handles regional traffic; Bus Terminal 2 (7 km out) serves long-distance routes. Buses to Bangkok run frequently (262 THB, 5–7 hrs), as do services to Chiang Mai (202 THB, 5–6 hrs). Air-conditioned buses to Sukhothai depart roughly every 45 minutes from the main terminal (40 THB, 1 hr). Buses also connect to Khon Kaen, Tak, and other provincial towns.

Public buses serve the town, and tuk-tuks and taxis are plentiful. Bus 1 runs between the central bus station and the train station. Motorcycles (Honda Wave, etc.) can be rented from shops near the central bus station for about 200 baht/day. The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot, especially along the riverfront.

• Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat (Wat Yai) — The most important temple in Phitsanulok, home to the revered Phra Buddha Chinnarat statue. Hosts a large fair every January. Near Naresuan Bridge. Small market on the grounds offering souvenirs and local food. Nang Phaya Temple next door offers traditional Thai massage.
• King Naresuan Shrine and Wang Chan Palace Ruin — North of the city centre. Commemorates King Naresuan, the 16th-century liberator of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The shrine houses a statue of the king; surrounding ruins are the remains of his birthplace palace.
• Wat Ratburana — South side of Naresuan Bridge. Known for its very old, tall chedi said to house the ashes of two Sukhothai king's brothers. Also has a small museum and a boat used by King Chulalongkorn.
• Wat Wihan Thong — Facing Wat Yai across the river. Ruins of a 15th-century royal temple with Sukhothai-style architecture.
• City Pillar Shrine (Lak Mueang) — On the river opposite Wat Yai. A golden pillar representing the tutelary deity of the province, housed in a Khmer-style structure designed by the Thai Fine Arts Department.
• Folklore Museum — South of town centre. Small museum exhibiting local culture and society as collected by Sergeant Major Tawee. 50 baht.
• Aviary — Next to the Buddha casting factory. Around 100 local species including parrots and hornbills.
• Houseboats — Once a symbol of Phitsanulok, a few remain on the river, some functioning as restaurants and cafes.

Visit the temples and stroll through a Thai city that retains an authentic, unspoilt character. The riverfront is pleasant for walking, especially at sunset. The annual Wat Yai fair (January) features temple ceremonies, food stalls, and local performances.

Several markets offer the typical variety of Thai food stalls. The market just south of the train station turns into a popular night market in the early evening, specialising in gai yang (grilled chicken) and kway teow pad Thai.

• Kuai Tiao Hoi Kha (Soi Phutthabucha, riverside alley behind Wat Yai) — Very popular noodle restaurant where you can dangle your legs over the river. Famous for its noodle soup. Can get crowded at lunchtime.
• Night Bazaar (along the river) — Lots of tourist-friendly food options plus evening shopping.
• Topland Mall — Standard chain restaurants and a Tesco-Lotus supermarket for self-catering.
• Big C Mall (3 km east of centre) — Wide range of small restaurants and a food hall.
• Connection House (Borom Trailokanat Rd) — Thai and foreign food, cakes and coffee.
• It's a Cake (73/1-5 Paya Lithai Rd) — Great cakes, sandwiches, pasta, and Thai dishes.

Vegetarian options exist but can be limited; some places advertise vegetarian but include chicken or fish stock, so it pays to confirm.

• The Pista (Phayalithai Rd) — A coffee shop popular with local students, serving good coffee in a quiet, air-conditioned setting. Free Wi-Fi.
• Bubbletea Kiosk (near the river by the school) — Cheap bubble tea for 20–25 baht.
• Tap water is not drinkable; stick to bottled water.

• Budget: London Guesthouse — Spartan clean fan rooms from 100 baht, shared bathrooms, near the night market and railway station. Lithai Guesthouse (73/1-5 Phayalithai Rd) — Clean rooms from 300 baht single fan, 400 baht double en suite, includes Asian breakfast.
• Mid-range: Asia Hotel — Short walk from the railway station, clean fan or air-con rooms with hot water and Wi-Fi from 380 baht. BP Tower — Pleasant hotel on the outskirts with mini-mart, laundry, and restaurant; rooms 300–500 baht.
• Upscale: Topland Hotel — The largest hotel in town, attached to the Topland Mall, with full amenities and a central location.

The Night Bazaar along the river offers tourist-oriented items and souvenirs. Several markets in town sell local crafts, clothing, and everyday goods. The Topland Mall and Big C Mall provide modern shopping with chain stores and supermarkets. Bargaining is standard at markets but not at fixed-price shops.

• Sukhothai (58 km west, 1 hr by bus) — The ancient capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom, a UNESCO World Heritage site with magnificent temple ruins.
• Kamphaeng Phet (130 km south, ~2 hr) — Another UNESCO-listed historical park with well-preserved city walls and temples.
• Uttaradit (120 km north, ~2 hr) — Gateway to the Sirikit Dam and lush mountain scenery.
• Loei (200 km northeast, ~3 hr) — Mountainous province with national parks, Phu Kradueng, and cool-weather escapes.
• Chiang Mai (300 km north, 5–6 hr by train/bus) — Thailand's northern cultural capital, famous for its old city, temples, and hill-tribe treks.