Mae Salong

Mae Salong (แม่สลอง), also known as Doi Mae Salong (ดอยแม่สลอง) and officially called Santikhiri (สันติคีรี), is a mountain village in Chiang Rai Province. Its history is deeply tied to the 93rd Division of the Chinese Nationalist Army (Kuomintang) that fled Yunnan after the communist victory in 1949. The soldiers settled here, initially funding themselves through the opium trade before transitioning to oolong tea cultivation. Today Mae Salong is famous for its Yunnanese-Chinese culture, tea plantations, and crisp mountain climate.

The peak tourist season is December to February when plum blossoms and cherry blossoms bloom. It gets misty and cold during this time. The rainy season runs from June to October. The village is spread out along a ridge, with the main commercial area around the 7-Eleven and market.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Mae Fah Luang-Chiang Rai International Airport (CEI IATA), about 50 km east via winding mountain roads.

By Car / Road

Mae Salong lies on the scenic and very twisty Hwy 1130. From Chiang Rai, take Hwy 1 north for 32 km to Pa Sang, then turn onto Hwy 1130. The shortest access is via Hwy 1089 from Mae Chan, with a signposted turn-off after 28.6 km. Minibuses run from Mae Chan (100 baht, at 09:00 and 13:00 from Mae Chan, returning at 07:30, 11:00 and 15:00). Hiring a car with driver from Chiang Rai costs 1,200–1,600 baht.

The central area is walkable, but the village is spread out. Renting a motorbike is convenient (around 200 baht per day). Hitchhiking is relatively easy on the main roads. Taxis can be arranged through guesthouses.

• Phra Boromathat Chedi: A chedi built on a hill in honour of the Princess Mother. Good views across town and towards Myanmar. Accessible via a 719-step staircase or by road.

• Chinese Martyrs' Memorial Museum: A tribute to the Kuomintang settlers, with history exhibits in Thai, Chinese, and English.

• Tomb of General Tuan: The mausoleum of Mae Salong's founder, Kuomintang General Tuan Xi-Wen, with a small museum and spectacular views.

• Wat Santikhiri: A modern Thai temple guarding the approach to the chedi.

• Khun Sa Old Camp: The former headquarters of the drug lord Khun Sa, now a small museum.

• Tea Plantations: Rolling hills of oolong tea bushes, especially scenic around Wang Put Tan.

• Trekking: Guesthouses arrange treks to Akha hill tribe villages, on foot or by horse (400 baht for 4 hours).

• Tea tasting: Sample oolong teas at Wang Put Tan and other plantations.

• Self-guided scooter exploration: Discover nearby villages and trails using satellite maps.

• Volunteering: Look up "Akha Hill Tribe Project - Mae Salong" for community work.

Take a break from Thai food and try Yunnanese cuisine. Signature dishes include Yunnan noodles with dumplings, papa cake (baked glutinous rice), hot soy milk with deep fried dough sticks (youtiao), and bamboo worm for the adventurous.

• Yunnanist Noodle Shop: Downhill from 7-Eleven, 40–50 baht noodle soup with free oolong tea.
• Morning Market stalls: Soy milk and dough sticks, fresh fruit.
• Noodle shops: Numerous around town for budget meals.

Drink tea — it is what Mae Salong is famous for. Sweet Mae Salong cafe serves espresso, baked goods, and has great valley views. There are also Chinese herbal liquors with preserved specimens.

• Budget: Akha Guest House (200 baht single/400 double), Shin Sane Guesthouse
• Mid-range: Mae Salong Villa (from 600 baht), Baan Hom Muang (from 500 baht)
• Upscale: Mae Salong Resort (from 1,200 baht, with mountain views)

The main product is oolong tea, grown on plantations all around. Wang Put Tan is one of the largest producers, with grades from 200 to 1,000 baht per 100 g. The Morning Market (opens at dawn, mostly over by 08:00) sells Yunnanese street snacks and Akha handicrafts. The Tourist Market (afternoons) sells tea, mushrooms, herbs, and souvenirs. Local coffee is also grown but harder to find.

• Mae Chan (30 km east) — market town and junction for Northern Chiang Rai.
• Doi Tung (20 km north) — royal development project and gardens.
• Chiang Rai (50 km east) — provincial capital.
• Mae Sai (60 km north) — border town with Myanmar.
• Thaton (40 km south-west) — riverside town with boat trips to Chiang Rai.