Solovetsky Islands

The Solovetsky Islands (Solovki) are a group of islands in the White Sea in Arkhangelsk Oblast, representing one of Russia's most hauntingly beautiful and historically significant destinations. The islands are home to the Solovetsky Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has served as a Russian fortress, spiritual center, and — infamously — one of the first Soviet gulag prison camps. Described by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn as "the mother of the Gulag," Solovki symbolizes both the spiritual heights and the darkest chapters of Russian history.

The main island, Bolshoy Solovetsky, contains the monastery complex (in continuous use since the early 15th century), traditional wooden architecture, botanical gardens, and archaeological sites including ancient stone labyrinths on neighboring Bolshoy Zayatsky Island. The islands are part of the Silver Ring of cultural and historical centers of Northwestern Russia and attract pilgrims, history enthusiasts, and nature lovers from around the world.

The climate is severe subarctic maritime with long cold winters (-10°C to -20°C) and short, cool summers (10–18°C). The islands experience the White Nights phenomenon in June with nearly 24-hour daylight. The navigation season for boats runs from approximately late May to September. The islands are famous for their midges and mosquitoes in summer — insect repellent is essential.

By Plane

Solovki Airport (CSH) is located close to the monastery and the islands' main settlement. Nordavia Regional Airlines (a subsidiary of Aeroflot) operates the 50-minute flight from Arkhangelsk up to twice per week. Prices start at approximately 5,000 rubles one way. Booking in advance is essential, especially during summer peak season.

By Train

There is no train service to the Solovetsky Islands. The nearest railway station is at Kem' (on the Saint Petersburg–Murmansk mainline), from which boats depart to the islands. Another option is Belomorsk, also accessible by rail.

By Car / Road

There is no road connection to the Solovetsky Islands. The only way to reach them is by air or boat. Visitors with cars typically leave them at Kem' or Belomorsk and take the ferry.

There are no paved roads on the Solovetsky Islands. Movement is primarily on foot, by bicycle (available for hire from approximately 100 rubles per hour), or by the monastery's boat service. The main settlement, monastery, and most attractions on Bolshoy Solovetsky Island can be reached on foot, though distances are significant. Boat excursions connect to smaller islands including Bolshoy Zayatsky.

• Solovetsky Monastery — A large monastery and one of the principal spiritual homes of the Russian Orthodox Church, in use since the early 15th century. The complex includes the Holy Gates, Transfiguration Cathedral, Assumption Church, Nikolskaya Church, Annunciation Church, and the Refectory Complex. During the Soviet era, it became the Solovki Prison Camp (1923–1939). Free entry.

• Bolshoy Zayatsky Island — A small island with ancient stone labyrinths dating back thousands of years. Excursion cost approximately 550 rubles, departing twice daily in summer.

• Sekirnaya Hill and Church of the Ascension — A hilltop church offering panoramic views of the islands and the White Sea.

• Botanical Gardens and Makaryevskaya Hermitage — Tranquil gardens and a remote hermitage offering a contemplative experience.

• GULAG Memorial Sites — Remnants and memorials from the Solovki Prison Camp period, documenting the islands' role as the prototype for the Soviet camp system.

• Beluga whale watching — Belugas arrive in late June; the visitors' centre organizes excursions by bus followed by a 4-km walk to observation points.

• Bicycle exploration — Hire a bike (from 100 rubles per hour) and explore the island's paths, forests, and coastal areas. Roads are extremely poor, so cycling requires some effort.

• Hiking the island trails — The Solovetsky Islands offer walking trails through forests, along the coast, and between historical sites.

• Monastery services and pilgrimages — The monastery holds regular religious services, and the islands attract Orthodox pilgrims year-round.

Dining options on the Solovetsky Islands are limited but include several cafés and the hotel restaurant. Standard Russian fare — borscht, pelmeni, fish dishes, and kasha — is available. Meals cost approximately 300–800 rubles. Natalya's Apartment on Primorskaya 9 offers home-cooked meals (she was formerly the monastery cook) and is highly recommended. Vegetarian options are limited.

Tap water quality varies; bottled water is recommended. The Sloboda Hotel offers semi-reliable Wi-Fi access for 100 rubles for 24 hours. Tea and coffee are available at cafés. The drinking culture follows standard Russian patterns.

• Budget: Peterburgskaya Obshchezhitie (Petersburg Hostel) has beds from as low as 450 rubles, but advance booking by phone (+7 88183590375) is essential in peak season.
• Mid-range: Hotel Priyut offers clean rooms from approximately 1,900 rubles for a single with common bathroom. Sloboda Hotel is another option with more amenities.
• Upscale / heritage: Apartment on Primorskaya 9 (Natalya's Apartment) offers a single room for $22 or a living room for up to 4 people at $70 with breakfast included (as of Summer 2018). Natalya speaks conversational English.

The monastery shop sells religious items, icons, candles, and local crafts. The main settlement has a few small shops offering basic goods and souvenirs. Local specialties include items made from local stone and wood. The selection is modest — visitors should bring essentials from the mainland.

• Arkhangelsk (fly 50 minutes or boat from Kem') — Regional capital with museums, embankment, and Malye Korely wooden architecture museum
• Kem' (boat arrival point, on Saint Petersburg–Murmansk railway) — Rail junction for continuing to Saint Petersburg or Murmansk
• Kargopol (approximately 400 km by road from Arkhangelsk) — Historic town with wooden architecture and Kargopol toys
• Belomorsk (boat departure point, on rail line) — Small town with connections to Karelia and the White Sea coast