Hardangervidda National Park

Hardangervidda National Park (Norwegian: Hardangervidda nasjonalpark) is the largest national park in Norway proper, protecting 3,422 km² of the vast Hardangervidda highland plateau — the largest in Northern Europe at roughly 8,500 km². Established in 1981, the park spans three counties (Vestland, Telemark, and Buskerud) and is home to Europe's largest herds of wild reindeer, numbering around 9,000 animals. The park sits at 1,100–1,200 m elevation and is characterised by open, treeless moorland dotted with over a thousand lakes, rivers, and streams — a landscape Norwegians call vidde (wide, open plateau). The prominent peak of Hårteigen (1,690 m) rises above the plateau and is visible from much of the surrounding area.

Humans have used Hardangervidda since shortly after the last Ice Age — around 250 Stone Age sites have been found here, the oldest dating to 6300 BC. Today the plateau remains an active resource: local landowners graze sheep in summer, and visitors come for hiking, skiing, fishing, and hunting. Unlike many Norwegian national parks, Hardangervidda is not a wilderness preserve in the strict sense — there are privately owned cabins, lodges, and even some motorised access for resource management.

The climate is subarctic and changeable. Summer days can reach 20°C, but snow flurries and freezing temperatures are possible at any time. Winters are long and harsh, with temperatures plunging to −30°C and heavy snow cover persisting from October to May. Always carry layered clothing including wool base layers and waterproof outerwear, even in July. Rainfall is significantly heavier on the western side (Vestland side) than on the eastern slopes.

By Plane

The closest major airports are:

• Bergen Airport, Flesland (BGO) — 170 km / ~2½ hours drive to Eidfjord, the main western gateway. Direct flights from Oslo, Stavanger, Trondheim, and many European cities. Airport bus and car rental available in the terminal.
• Oslo Airport, Gardermoen (OSL) — 250 km / ~3½ hours drive to Rjukan or Geilo. Norway's main international hub with connections worldwide. Car rental at the airport; the Bergensbanen train departs from Oslo S (connect from Gardermoen by Flytoget airport express, ~20 min to Oslo S).
• Oslo Airport, Torp (TRF) near Sandefjord — ~200 km / 3 hours to Rauland. Budget carriers (Ryanair, Wizz Air) serve this airport.
• Kristiansand Airport, Kjevik (KRS) — ~220 km / 3 hours to Haukeli. Seasonal charter and domestic flights.
• Haugesund Airport, Karmøy (HAU) — ~160 km / 2 hours to Odda. Limited domestic and some international routes.

By Train

The Bergensbanen (Bergen Railway) is the most spectacular way to approach Hardangervidda. The line crosses the plateau at Finse (1,222 m) — the highest station on the Norwegian rail network. Key stops for accessing the park:

• Finse — Remote plateau station, starting point for glacier hiking and the Rallarvegen cycle route. No road access; train only.
• Haugastøl — Gateway for cycling the Rallarvegen (bicycle rental available at the station).
• Geilo — Mountain resort town with full services, good access to the northern Hardangervidda.
• Myrdal and Hallingskeid — Remote stops useful for multi-day treks.

Book tickets at vy.no (Vy is the national rail operator). Advance booking is recommended in summer as the Bergen Railway is popular with tourists. The journey from Oslo S to Finse takes about 4 hours; from Bergen, about 3 hours. For the southern gateways (Rauland, Rjukan), take the train to Bø in Telemark and connect by the Haukeliekspressen bus.

By Car / Road

National road 7 (Riksvei 7, the "Hardangervidda road") is the main car access, crossing the plateau between Eidfjord and Geilo. There are no public roads inside the national park itself.

From Oslo (~4–4½ hours): Take E18 west to Drammen, then E134 to Notodden and Rv 37 to Rjukan (eastern gateway). Alternatively, E18 to Sandvika, then E16 to Hønefoss and Rv 7 to Geilo (northern gateway).

From Bergen (~3–3½ hours): E16 to Voss, then Rv 13 to Granvin and Rv 7 to Eidfjord. This route crosses the Hardangerbrua suspension bridge and offers stunning fjord scenery.

Bus services: The Haukeliekspressen runs between Oslo and Haukeli via Rauland and Rjukan — a useful service for reaching the southern gateways. NOR-WAY Bussekspress and Vy operate services to Geilo from both Oslo and Bergen. From Bergen, a bus to Voss connects to a regional bus to Eidfjord.

There are no public roads within the national park, so getting around once inside means hiking, skiing, cycling, or horseback riding.

By car — The scenic routes around the park offer spectacular viewpoints. Route 7 across Hardangervidda has several convenient stops and side roads toward the park. Route 364 leads to Tinn Austbygd, where you can park at Stegaros or Synken and take the boat across Mårvatnet to the Mårbu lodge. Route 37 to Skinnarbu accesses the Møsvatn lake and the Fjellvåken boat to the Mogen lodge. E134 over Haukelifjell connects to the Hardanger fjord region — a spectacular 2–3 day drive combining fjords, the Vøringsfossen waterfall, and mountain scenery.

On foot — The Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT, turistforeningen.no) maintains an extensive network of marked hiking trails and staffed/self-service huts across the plateau. Huts are typically spaced a day's walk apart. DNT membership gives a discount at all huts.

By bicycle — Cycling is restricted to a few tractor roads within the park, but the famous Rallarvegen (Navvy Road) from Haugastøl to Flåm is one of Norway's most celebrated cycle routes (82 km, mostly downhill from the plateau to the fjord). Bicycle rental is available at Haugastøl station. The route from Rjukan to Kalhovd is another option.

Boats — The Fjellvåken boat crosses Møsvatn lake from Skinnarbu to the Mogen lodge (summer only, typically late June – mid-August). A boat service also runs from Synken across Mårvatnet to Mårbu.

Hardangervidda National Park Centre (Hardangervidda Nasjonalparksenter), Møsvatn near Rjukan — An award-winning interactive exhibition on the plateau's nature, including the Wild Reindeer Exhibition, a cinema, and Café Panorama. Open daily 10:00–16:00 in summer (June–August). ☎ +47 97074300.

Hårteigen (1,690 m) — The plateau's most distinctive peak, a flat-topped mountain visible from nearly everywhere on the vidda. A challenging but rewarding day hike; the summit offers 360° views of the entire plateau.

Vøringsfossen — One of Norway's most famous waterfalls, dropping 182 m into the Måbødalen valley near Eidfjord. Viewed from the roadside along Rv 7 or from the new Vøringsfossen walking bridge and viewing platforms (opened 2020).

Kjeåsen Mountain Farm — One of Europe's most isolated farms, perched above the Simadalsfjord near Eidfjord. Accessible by a steep tunnel road (summer only) with spectacular fjord views.

Austbygde — A small, charming village 38 km northeast of Rjukan with beautiful rural landscapes and views over lake Tinnsjøen.

Rjukan — A historic industrial town (175 km northwest of Oslo) built by Norsk Hydro in the early 20th century. The Rjukan–Notodden Industrial Heritage Site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also notable for the Vemork heavy water sabotage of World War II, commemorated at the Norwegian Industrial Workers Museum.

Rallarvegen (The Navvy Road) — Originally built as a construction road for the Bergen Railway in the early 1900s, now one of Norway's most famous scenic cycling routes from Haugastøl via Finse to Flåm.

Hiking — The park has hundreds of marked trails ranging from gentle day walks near the gateways to multi-day traverses of the entire plateau. A classic route is the 3–4 day trek from Finse to Haukeliseter (or vice versa), staying at DNT huts along the way. Day hikes from Eidfjord into the western plateau offer dramatic rocky terrain.

Cross-country skiing — Easter skiing across Hardangervidda is a Norwegian tradition. The Finse–Haugastøl–Geilo corridor is popular, but conditions can be severe. Recommended for experienced skiers with proper equipment and navigation skills. Guided tours are available from local operators.

Fishing — Hardangervidda's lakes and rivers are rich in trout. Children under 16 fish for free; adults need a local fishing permit. Since much of the plateau is privately owned, permits are area-specific (Hardangervidda West, Hardangervidda East, Ullensvang, Møsvatn, and others). A 24-hour permit costs kr 50–70; a week permit kr 100–300. Buy permits from tourist offices, lodges, and hotels near your fishing area.

Cycling the Rallarvegen — The 82-km route from Haugastøl to Flåm descends from 1,000 m to sea level through spectacular scenery including glaciers, waterfalls, and fjord landscapes. Allow a full day. Bicycles can be rented at Haugastøl and returned in Flåm; the Bergensbanen takes you back.

Wildlife watching — The plateau hosts Europe's largest wild reindeer herds (around 9,000 animals), but they are shy and rarely seen. If you spot a herd, stand still and enjoy quietly — never approach or follow. The area also has large populations of arctic ducks, divers, dotterels, and shore larks. Late May and June are best for birdwatching.

Day trips — Take the Fjellvåken boat across Møsvatn to Mogen lodge for a scenic outing. Drive the Hardangervidda National Tourist Route for fjord-to-mountain scenery including Vøringsfossen.

Dining options are concentrated in the gateway towns and at mountain lodges. The cuisine is traditional Norwegian mountain fare — hearty, simple, and built around local ingredients.

• Mountain lodges and huts serve simple but filling meals: stews, soups, open-faced sandwiches, and vafler (waffles with jam and cream) are standard fare. DNT staffed huts offer full dinner and breakfast; self-service huts have basic provisions (canned food, dried goods) for a fee.
• Rjukan has several restaurants and cafés serving Norwegian comfort food. Try local dishes like fårikål (lamb and cabbage stew, Norway's national dish), fresh trout from nearby lakes, and reindeer stew when available.
• Geilo has a wider restaurant scene due to its resort status, including upscale dining with Norwegian and international menus.
• Eidfjord has cafés and restaurants, some with views of the Hardangerfjord. Fresh salmon and trout are menu staples.

Vegetarian options are available but limited in mountain huts — inform hosts in advance. Tap water throughout Norway is safe and excellent.

Norway's drink culture is shaped by the tur tradition — a thermos of coffee is an essential hiking companion. Expect to be offered black coffee (kokekaffe, boiled coffee) at every hut and lodge.

• Coffee is ubiquitous. Mountain lodges serve it throughout the day. In gateway towns, cafés offer standard espresso drinks.
• Aquavit (akevitt) is Norway's traditional spirit, flavoured with caraway and dill. Try it with a traditional meal.
• Local beer — Norwegian craft breweries have expanded greatly. Look for beers from local Vestland and Telemark breweries in gateway town bars and restaurants.
• Taxes and prices — Alcohol is expensive in Norway due to high taxation. Beer and wine are sold in supermarkets; spirits and strong beer (above 4.7% ABV) are only available at Vinmonopolet (state liquor stores) in larger towns like Rjukan and Geilo. A beer in a restaurant typically costs kr 90–120.

Tap water is safe and excellent everywhere. Carry a reusable bottle and refill from streams on the plateau (generally safe at high elevations, though avoid livestock areas).

Budget

• DNT huts (Den Norske Turistforening) — The Norwegian Trekking Association operates a network of staffed and self-service huts across Hardangervidda. Self-service huts cost around kr 300–500/night for DNT members (non-members pay more). Staffed huts cost kr 700–1,000/night including dinner and breakfast. Book staffed huts in advance at turistforeningen.no during peak season. The huts are spaced a day's hike apart, making multi-day treks practical.
• Finse 1222 — A mountain hotel at Finse station (1,222 m), accessible only by train. Dormitory beds from around kr 500/night. A classic stop for skiers and hikers.

Mid-range

• Rjukan Gjestegård — A guesthouse in the centre of Rjukan with simple, comfortable rooms. Doubles from around kr 1,000–1,400/night.
• Geilolia Hyttetun — Cabins and apartments in Geilo, suitable for families. From around kr 1,200/night for a cabin.

Upscale / Heritage

• Hotel Union Geilo — A historic mountain hotel in Geilo with spa, restaurant, and modern facilities. Doubles from around kr 1,800–2,500/night.
• Vøringsfoss Hotel (near Eidfjord) — A hotel with views over the Hardangerfjord, combining proximity to the waterfall and fjord scenery. Doubles from around kr 1,500–2,200/night.

Shopping is limited within the park itself, but gateway towns offer local products:

• Rjukan has a small town centre with shops selling outdoor gear, local food products, and souvenirs related to the town's industrial and wartime heritage.
• Eidfjord has a tourist information centre with maps, guides, and some local crafts.
• Geilo is a resort town with outdoor equipment shops, Norwegian knitwear, and local food products.
• Local specialities include traditional Norwegian sølje (silver brooches), Hardanger-region embroidery, and locally produced jams and cured meats from the surrounding farms.
• Outdoor gear and maps are available at DNT huts and some gateway lodges, though at a premium.

• Bergen (170 km / 2½ hours west) — Norway's second-largest city, gateway to the fjords, with UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf, the Fløibanen funicular, and vibrant fish market.
• Hardangerfjord (30 km from Eidfjord) — Norway's second-longest fjord, famous for apple orchards, cider production, and the Folgefonna glacier. Accessible by car along the national tourist route.
• Flåm (120 km / 2 hours from Geilo) — End point of the Rallarvegen and the Flåm Railway, one of the world's steepest rail lines, connecting to the Sognefjord.
• Rjukan (50 km from the park's eastern edge) — UNESCO World Heritage industrial site, Vemork war museum, and the Krossobanen cable car offering panoramic views.
• Jotunheimen National Park (200 km / 3 hours north) — Norway's "Home of the Giants" with Scandinavia's highest peaks, glacier hiking, and the Besseggen ridge walk.
• Telemark Canal (100 km / 1½ hours from Rjukan) — A historic 19th-century waterway connecting Skien to Dalen with locks, steamboat cruises, and scenic countryside.