Bagan

Bagan (Burmese: ပုဂံ) is one of the world's greatest archaeological sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, pagodas, and stupas on earth. Between the 11th and 13th centuries, over 13,000 temples once stood on this 42 km² plain on the eastern bank of the Irrawaddy River. Today approximately 2,200 remain, in varying states of repair, creating a landscape of haunting beauty. As Marco Polo described it, Bagan was once a "gilded city alive with tinkling bells and the swishing sounds of monks' robes."

Bagan has three main towns serving visitors: Old Bagan (the temple zone), New Bagan (southwest, most accommodation), and Nyaung U (northeast, budget options). The dry climate (Nov–Feb is best) and flat terrain make it ideal for cycling and hot-air ballooning. The site entry fee is US$20 or 25,000 kyat, valid for 5 days. A significant earthquake struck in August 2016, damaging many temples — restoration is ongoing.

By Plane

Nyaung U Airport (NYU IATA) is 4 km south of Nyaung U. Flights from Yangon and Mandalay. Taxi to New Bagan 7,000–10,000 kyat.

By Train

Bagan Railway Station is 1.2 km from the bus terminal. Trains from Yangon (overnight, 16:00–09:00, 4,500–16,500 kyat) and Mandalay (07:20–18:45, 1,300–1,800 kyat). The journey is slow, rough, and memorable.

By Car / Road

Bagan Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal serves buses from Mandalay (5–8 hr, 7,000–8,000 kyat), Yangon (9–11 hr, 13,000–18,000 kyat), Inle Lake (9 hr, 14,000 kyat), and Mount Popa (1.5 hr, 1,000–1,500 kyat). Shared pickups into town from the terminal cost 1,000–1,500 kyat.

By boat: The "express" ferry from Mandalay takes 9–12 hr (US$35–45). A slow local ferry costs 18,000 kyat (14–17 hr, Sun & Wed). Not available Apr–Jun (low water).

Bicycle is the classic way to explore Bagan (rental 1,500–3,000 kyat/day). E-bikes (5,000–8,000 kyat/day) are popular for covering more ground. Horse carts (20,000–30,000 kyat for half-day) offer a romantic option. Shared pickups connect the three towns for 200–400 kyat. Taxis are available for 20,000–30,000 kyat for a full-day tour.

• Ananda Pahto: The most beautiful and best-preserved temple in Bagan, with four towering teak Buddha statues. Free (site ticket covers all).

• Shwesandaw Pagoda: The classic sunset-watching temple — climb the terraces for panoramic views over the plain.

• Dhammayangyi Temple: The largest temple in Bagan, with massive brickwork and narrow interior passages.

• Thatbyinnyu Temple: The tallest temple (61 m), built in the 12th century.

• Bupaya Pagoda: A distinctive gourd-shaped stupa on the Irrawaddy riverbank in Old Bagan.

• Shwezigon Pagoda: A prototype of later Burmese stupas, built by King Anawrahta in the 11th century.

• Htilominlo Temple: Known for its elaborate plaster carvings and the site where ticket checks are common.

• Archaeological Museum (New Bagan): Exhibits of Bagan's history and artifacts. Entry 5,000 kyat.

• Lacquerware Workshops: Several workshops in New Bagan demonstrate traditional lacquer making.

• Sunrise/Sunset Temple Hopping: The quintessential Bagan experience — watch the sun rise over the misty temple plain from Shwesandaw or a lesser-known temple.

• Hot-Air Balloon Ride: Balloons over Bagan (US$300–450) offer an unforgettable aerial view of the temple plain (Nov–Mar only).

• Bicycle Temple Circuit: Follow the main temple routes by bike — allow 2–3 days to see the highlights.

• Irrawaddy River Cruise: Sunset boat trips on the Irrawaddy offer a different perspective of the temples.

• Lacquerware Workshop Tour: Learn about the traditional craft that Bagan is famous for.

• Mount Popa Day Trip: 50 km southeast, a volcanic peak with the stunning Popa Taung Kalat shrine and macaque monkeys.

• The Moon (Be Kind to Animals): New Bagan — excellent vegetarian Burmese food in a garden setting (2,000–5,000 kyat).
• Sarabha II: Old Bagan — river-view terrace serving Myanmar and western dishes.
• Nanda Restaurant: Nyaung U — Burmese curries in a garden courtyard (3,000–6,000 kyat).
• Street Food at Nyaung U Market: Mohinga, Shan noodles, and fried snacks from 500 kyat.

Myanmar milk tea at any tea shop. Fresh coconut water and sugarcane juice are widely available. Beer stations serve Myanmar Beer. The terraces of several temples are popular sunset spots for a picnic drink. Bottled water is essential.

• Budget: Ostello Bello (Nyaung U, dorm US$8–12) and Pan Cherry Guest House (New Bagan, US$10–15).
• Mid-range: Bagan Star Hotel (New Bagan, US$30–50) with pool. Thante Hotel (Old Bagan, US$40–60) in a quiet garden setting.
• Upscale: Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort (US$100–200) on the river. Aureum Palace Resort (US$120–250) with stunning temple views.
• Heritage: Su Tine San Royal Bagan Hotel (US$50–80) in a restored colonial building.

Bagan is famous for lacquerware — bowls, plates, boxes, and jewellery. The workshops in New Bagan offer the best prices. Other souvenirs include thanaka (traditional cosmetic), Bagan-style longyi, and sand paintings. Bargaining is expected. The Nyaung U market is the main shopping area.

• Mount Popa (50 km southeast, 1.5 hr) — The volcano-monastery and centre of Myanmar's nat (spirit) worship.
• Mandalay (190 km northeast, 5–8 hr) — Myanmar's cultural capital with the Royal Palace and U Bein Bridge.
• Mrauk U (overnight bus, 16+ hr) — The forgotten capital of Arakan with breathtaking temple ruins.
• Bago (320 km south, 6–7 hr) — The ancient Mon capital with the tallest pagoda in Myanmar.
• Magway (100 km south, 2 hr) — Capital of Magway Region, centre of Myanmar's dry-zone agriculture.
• Inle Lake (9 hr by bus) — The beautiful lake with floating gardens, leg-rowers, and stilted villages.