Ulithi

Ulithi is a large coral atoll in the outer islands of Yap State, in the Federated States of Micronesia, lying about 160 km northeast of Yap's main islands. One of the biggest lagoons in the world, Ulithi is a ring of around 40 islets enclosing a vast, sheltered anchorage — a fact that made it one of the most important places in the Pacific during World War II, when the US Navy used the lagoon as a colossal forward fleet base for the final campaigns against Japan. Today Ulithi is home to a few thousand people across its inhabited islets (Falalop, Asor, Mogmog, and Fedrai among them), living a traditional outer-island Carolinian life of fishing, taro and coconut, weaving, and seafaring, with their own Ulithian language and customs distinct from the Yapese of the main islands.

For travellers, Ulithi is the most accessible of Yap's outer islands, with a small airstrip on Falalop and occasional flights, and it has seen modest community-based and conservation tourism (notably around manta rays, turtles, and reefs). Even so, it is remote, facilities are basic, and a visit requires arranging permission, hosting, and transport in advance, and observing strict local custom (very modest dress, especially for women, and deference to chiefs).

The climate is hot, humid, and tropical year-round, with rain possible at any time. As low atoll islets, Ulithi's lands are highly exposed to storms and sea-level rise.

By Plane

Ulithi has a small airstrip on Falalop, served irregularly by Pacific Missionary Aviation (PMA) light aircraft from Yap (it is the most frequently served of Yap's outer islands). Flights are weather- and demand-dependent.

US citizens may stay visa-free up to a year under the Compact of Free Association; most other nationalities receive a 30-day permit on arrival in Yap. The currency is the US dollar.

By Boat

Ulithi is also reached by the state field-trip ship from Yap on an irregular schedule, and by inter-islet boats within the atoll. The sea voyage is long; arrange passage and hosting in advance.

Within the atoll, travel between islets is by small boat or canoe, and on each islet on foot. There are no vehicles for hire and no formal transport; everything is arranged through your host or the community. Visiting other islets (e.g. the chiefly island of Mogmog) requires permission.

• The great lagoon — one of the world's largest atoll lagoons, ringed by palm-covered islets; the WWII anchorage of the US Pacific Fleet.

• WWII relics — remnants of the wartime base and wrecks in and around the lagoon.

• Traditional Carolinian culture — men's houses, weaving, canoe-building, and chiefly custom on the inhabited islets; Mogmog is the traditional chiefly centre.

• Reefs, turtles, and mantas — Ulithi's reefs support turtle nesting and manta rays and have been a focus of marine conservation.

• Snorkelling and diving — clear lagoon and reef waters with turtles, mantas, and abundant fish; arrangements are basic and community-based.

• Cultural immersion — staying with a family, learning weaving, fishing, and canoe craft, and observing custom respectfully.

• WWII history — exploring the wartime story of the lagoon with knowledgeable locals.

• Walking the islets — quiet palm-shaded shores and villages.

Food is subsistence-based: fish, shellfish, taro, breadfruit, coconut, and pandanus, with imported rice and tinned goods by ship or plane. There are no restaurants; visitors eat with their host family or at very basic facilities (e.g. near the Falalop airstrip/school).

There are no bars. Fresh young coconut is the staple. Bring or treat your own water — rely on rainwater catchment and host provision; do not assume bottled water is available. Alcohol is restricted by custom; assume it is not available.

Lodging is very basic. Falalop has had simple guesthouse/community lodging associated with the school or a small inn; otherwise accommodation is a homestay arranged in advance.

Basic lodging / homestay

• Falalop community guesthouse / homestay — simple rooms or family hosting.

For comfortable lodging before and after, base yourself near Colonia on Yap's main island.

There are only small stores on the main islets; bring supplies from Yap. Ulithian weavings and handicrafts can be bought directly. Bring USD in small bills; there are no ATMs.

• Fais — a raised limestone island east of Ulithi, also served by PMA flights.
• Woleai — a traditional atoll further east in Yap's outer islands.
• Colonia / Yap main islands — the gateway, with dive resorts, stone money, and services.
• Yap dive sites — the manta-ray channels of the main islands.
• Mogmog (within Ulithi) — the atoll's chiefly islet, visited by permission.