Kesses

Kesses is a small rural town and sub-county in Uasin Gishu County, situated on the high plateau of Kenya's Rift Valley about 31 km south of Eldoret. At an elevation of roughly 2,750 metres (9,020 ft), it sits amid some of Kenya's most productive agricultural land — vast fields of maize and wheat that have earned Uasin Gishu the nickname "Kenya's breadbasket." The town itself is modest, serving primarily as a local administrative and market centre for the surrounding farming communities, but it is notable for two institutions: Moi University, one of Kenya's major public universities whose main campus lies just 6 km west, and Kesses Dam (also called Lake Lessos), a scenic man-made reservoir that is one of the headwater sources of the Yala River.

The area's history is layered. The Uasin Gishu Plateau was originally home to the Sirikwa, an agropastoral people whose distinctive earthwork enclosures — known as Sirikwa holes — are found across the western highlands. The Maasai clan Illwuasin-kishu later used the plateau as grazing land before ceding it to the British colonial government in the 1911 Anglo-Maasai agreement. In the early 1900s, Afrikaner settlers from South Africa established farms on the plateau, and the fertile soils attracted further waves of Kenyan settlement, particularly from the Kalenjin community. Today the population is predominantly Kalenjin (Nandi sub-group), with significant multi-ethnic diversity drawn by the university.

The climate is cool and temperate year-round thanks to the high altitude, with daytime temperatures typically between 10°C and 24°C. Nights can be chilly, dropping to around 5–8°C, so a warm layer is advisable even during the day. Rain falls in two seasons: the long rains from March to May and the short rains from October to December. The landscape is characterised by gently rolling grassland, scattered eucalyptus groves, and seasonal wetlands fed by the Tarakwa and Nderugut rivers.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Eldoret International Airport (IATA: ELD), located about 30 km north of Kesses near Eldoret. The airport handles domestic flights from Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) via carriers like Kenya Airways and Jambojet, with a flight time of roughly 45 minutes. A taxi from Eldoret Airport to Kesses costs approximately KSh 2,000–3,500 and takes about 30–40 minutes depending on road conditions. There is no scheduled airport shuttle to Kesses; arrange a pickup through your accommodation or use a ride-hailing app (see Get Around).

By Train

There is no railway service to Kasses or Eldoret. The Kenya Railways network does not extend this far into the western highlands. Use road or air transport instead.

By Car / Road

Kesses lies along the C52 road, about 31 km south of Eldoret and roughly 315 km northwest of Nairobi. From Nairobi, take the A104 through Nakuru and Naivasha — the drive takes 5–6 hours on mostly paved roads, though the section through the Mau Escarpment is winding. From Eldoret, head south on the Eldoret–Kesses road (about 30–40 minutes). From Kitale (80 km north), the drive takes about 1.5 hours via the A104.

Matatu (minibus) services run regularly from Eldoret's main matatu stage to Kesses Centre; the fare is around KSh 150–200 and the journey takes 30–45 minutes. There are also less frequent matatus from Eldoret to Moi University that pass through Kesses. Long-distance buses from Nairobi (operated by companies like Eldoret Express or North Rift) terminate in Eldoret; from there, transfer to a local matatu.

Kesses is a small settlement, and the town centre is easily walkable on foot — most shops, the market, and basic services are clustered along a single main road. For reaching Moi University campus (6 km west) or Kesses Dam (a few kilometres east), a boda-boda (motorcycle taxi) is the most practical option, costing KSh 50–150 depending on distance. Matatus ply the main road between Kesses and Eldoret throughout the day.

Ride-hailing apps like Uber and Bolt operate in Eldoret but have limited coverage in Kesses itself; you may be able to hail a car from Eldoret for longer trips. For exploring the surrounding countryside — Sirikwa holes, farms, and wetlands — hiring a local guide with a vehicle from Eldoret is the most reliable option. Walking is pleasant on dry days but trails become muddy in the rains.

• Kesses Dam (Lake Lessos): A scenic man-made reservoir about 6 km east of Moi University, at an elevation of 2,750 m. Originally built in the mid-20th century on a Danish settler's farm, it now supplies water to the university and surrounding communities. The reservoir covers roughly 189 hectares and is fringed by wetlands of Typha (cattail) and Cyperus sedges. Birdwatchers come for migratory ducks (Garganey, Shoveler, Northern Pintail) and resident species. Accessible by boda-boda or car from Kesses Centre. No formal entry fee; free to visit.

• Moi University Main Campus: Established in 1984, the campus is a green, spacious institution spread across the plateau. The grounds are pleasant for a walk and include botanical gardens and a school of aerospace science — one of very few in East Africa. The campus is open to visitors during the day; check with the administration for guided tours. Located 6 km west of Kesses Centre along the road to Eldoret.

• Sirikwa Holes: Archaeological earthwork enclosures scattered across the Uasin Gishu Plateau, remnants of the Sirikwa agropastoral people (c. AD 1200–1600). These circular depressions are found in grazing lands around the Kesses area and are best explored with a knowledgeable local guide who can identify the sites. No formal tourist infrastructure; ask at Moi University's Department of History or at the county museum in Eldoret.

• Uasin Gishu Farmland: The broad, golden-green wheat and maize fields stretching to the horizon are the landscape's defining feature. During the growing season (March–August), the fields are a patchwork of vivid green; after harvest (September–November), they turn tawny gold. Photographers will find the wide-open vistas striking, especially at dawn and dusk.

• Birdwatching at Kesses Dam: The reservoir and its surrounding wetlands host over 50 bird species, including migratory ducks from October to March. Bring binoculars and a field guide; early morning is best. A local birder can be arranged through Moi University's biology department.

• Walking and Hiking: The high plateau offers gentle walks through farmland and grassland with views of the distant Nandi Hills and the Cherang'any range. The terrain is mostly flat with moderate gradients, suitable for casual walkers. Routes around Kesses Dam and through the Moi University campus are the easiest to navigate independently.

• Day Trip to Eldoret: Kenya's fifth city (conferred city status in August 2024) is 30–40 minutes north and offers shopping, restaurants, the Eldoret Museum, and access to the Kerio Valley escarpment for more dramatic hiking. The Eldoret Agricultural Show (August) is the region's premier event.

• Day Trip to Nandi Hills: About 60 km southwest, the Nandi Hills are a lush, hilly tea-growing region with cool air, waterfalls, and the Nandi Bears Club golf course. The drive takes about 1.5 hours and makes a rewarding full-day excursion.

• Fishing at Kesses Dam: Nile tilapia were introduced to the reservoir in the 1990s and fishing is possible, though not formally organised for tourists. Ask locally about conditions and whether a permit is needed; some informal guides offer trips.

Kesses is a small town with limited formal dining. The most common eating options are simple hotels and nyama choma (roast meat) joints along the main road, serving Kenyan staples at low prices.

• Roadside nyama choma stalls (Kesses Centre): Goat and beef roasted over charcoal, served with ugali (maize meal) and kachumbari (tomato-onion salad). A plate costs KSh 200–400. These are informal, open-air, and typically busiest on market days and weekends.

• Moi University campus canteens: During term time, the university canteens and food stalls serve affordable meals — chapati with beans, rice with stew, chips (fries) with chicken — for KSh 100–250. Open to visitors during the day.

• Local hotels (Kesses Centre): Small eateries offering breakfast (chai and mandazi or chapati), lunch (ugali with sukuma wiki and stew), and basic dinners. Meals cost KSh 100–300. Portions are generous; hygiene is basic — choose busy stalls with high turnover.

• Eldoret restaurants (30–40 min drive): For wider variety, Eldoret has Indian, Chinese, and continental restaurants alongside Kenyan cuisine. Try Kilimanjaro Jamia for Somali-Kenyan dishes or Naivas food court for familiar fast food. Budget KSh 500–1,500 per meal.

Signature local dishes: ugali with stewed beef or goat, mursik (Kalenjin fermented milk in a smoke-lined gourd), and chapati with beans. Vegetarian options are available everywhere (beans, lentils, sukuma wiki); halal meat is sold at some butcheries; gluten-free diets are easily managed with ugali and rice.

The local drink of cultural significance is mursik, a Kalenjin specialty — fermented milk stored in a gourd (sotet) whose interior has been smoked with specific wood charcoal, giving it a distinctive smoky tang. It is often served at celebrations and is available at local markets. Chai (milky tea) is the everyday drink, served hot and sweet at every roadside stall.

For alcohol, Tusker and White Cap are the ubiquitous Kenyan lagers, available at local bars (KSh 150–250 per bottle). Kesses Centre has a handful of informal bars. Eldoret (30–40 min north) has a more developed nightlife with clubs and lounges.

Water safety: Tap water in the Kesses area comes from the dam and boreholes and is not reliably safe for visitors to drink without treatment. Buy sealed bottled water (KSh 30–50 per 500 ml) or boil/treat tap water. Water from Moi University's supply is generally considered safer but still worth filtering.

• Budget: There are basic guesthouses and lodging houses in Kesses Centre charging KSh 800–1,500 per night for a simple room with a bed and shared bathroom. Expect cold water, a ceiling fan or none, and minimal furnishings. These are functional for a night or two; ask locally as they are not listed online.

• Mid-range: Moi University Guest House (on campus, 6 km west of Kesses) occasionally accepts outside visitors when rooms are available; rates are around KSh 2,500–4,000 per night with hot water, Wi-Fi, and a restaurant. In Eldoret (30–40 min north), Boma Inn Eldoret offers comfortable rooms from about KSh 6,000–8,000 per night with a restaurant, bar, and conference facilities.

• Upscale: There is no upscale accommodation in Kasses itself. Sirikwa Hotel in Eldoret (from KSh 8,000–12,000 per night) and The Eldoret Club offer the nearest heritage-style or upscale options, with full restaurants, gardens, and business facilities. Both are a 30–40 minute drive from Kesses.

Kesses has a small local market (typically operating on market days, Wednesdays and Saturdays) where farmers sell fresh produce — maize, beans, potatoes, kale (sukuma wiki), tomatoes, and milk. The market is the best place to buy local farm produce at low prices. Basic household goods, mobile airtime, and simple provisions are available from dukas (small shops) along the main road.

For more substantial shopping — crafts, clothing, electronics — head to Eldoret, which has supermarkets (Naivas, Quickmart), a bustling town market, and shopping centres. There is no souvenir or craft shopping specific to Kesses; the area's economy is agricultural, not tourist-oriented.

• Eldoret (31 km, 30–40 min): Uasin Gishu's capital and Kenya's newest city. Shopping, restaurants, hospitals, Eldoret Museum, and the gateway to the Kerio Valley. The logical base for exploring the wider region.

• Nandi Hills (60 km, 1.5 hours): A lush tea-growing highland with cool air, waterfalls, and the Nandi Bears golf course. A scenic day trip through beautiful countryside.

• Kerio Valley (90 km via Eldoret, 2 hours): A dramatic Rift Valley escarpment dropping from the highlands to the semi-arid floor below, with stunning viewpoints, the Rimoi National Reserve (elephants), and Iten — the legendary high-altitude training ground for Kenyan distance runners.

• Kitale (80 km north, 1.5 hours): A market town near Mount Elgon National Park, which offers hiking, caves (Kitum Cave with its salt-mining elephants), and the Kitale Museum of Western Kenya cultures.

• Lake Bogoria National Reserve (150 km southeast, 2.5 hours): A soda lake in the Rift Valley famous for its hot springs, geysers, and vast flocks of lesser flamingos. One of Kenya's most dramatic natural spectacles.

• Saiwa Swamp National Park (95 km north, 1.5 hours): Kenya's smallest national park, a sanctuary for the rare sitatunga antelope, with boardwalk trails through papyrus swamp and forest.