Shimanami Kaido

The Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) is a 70 km island-hopping route that links Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, crossing the Seto Inland Sea by way of seven bridges and six islands. It is celebrated above all as one of the great cycling experiences in Japan — and arguably in the world — because, uniquely among the bridges that connect Honshu and Shikoku, every span carries a dedicated, well-graded lane for cyclists and pedestrians, separated from car traffic.

The route is far more than a means of getting between two cities: it is a destination in its own right. Riders pass through small fishing ports, citrus groves and quiet island villages, with the calm, island-studded sea almost always in view. Side trips reach distinctive sights — the pirate-history Suigun Castle on Innoshima, the eccentric Kosan-ji temple on Ikuchijima, and the ancient Oyamazumi shrine on Ōmishima. You are welcome to walk or jog any section, but cycling is the natural way to experience it.

The route follows a string of islands — from north to south: Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Ōmishima, Hakatajima and Ōshima. The main course is mostly flat, with reasonable graded approaches to each bridge and one notable hill on Ōshima. The whole route is free of charge for cyclists and pedestrians. Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable cycling weather; midsummer is hot, and check conditions in winter.

By Train

The mainland trailhead is at JR Onomichi Station on the San'yō Main Line (see the Onomichi guide for connections). The Shikoku end is at Imabari; the Sunrise Itoyama bike depot near the bridgeway is served by a limited number of buses from Imabari JR Station, or you can walk roughly 2 km from Hashihama Station. Onomichi's bike depot at the port is in the parking structure beside the Green Hill Hotel, opposite JR Onomichi Station.

By Car / Road

The Nishiseto Expressway carries motor traffic along the same chain of bridges, so the route is also drivable end to end. Cyclists, however, use the separate dedicated lanes and pay nothing.

Cycling is the point. Bikes can be rented or dropped off at any of the 14 bike depots along the route operated through Shimanami Japan (しまなみジャパン), the association run by the three cities along the way; there are two additional drop-off-only locations in Imabari. Depots stock 8-speed road bikes, 3-speed upright bikes and electric-assist bikes, plus helmets (limited sizes). Rental is ¥1000 plus a ¥1000 deposit, with the deposit forfeited if you return the bike to a depot other than the one you rented from. The bike manufacturer Giant also has shops at Onomichi port and Imabari station, with hybrids from about ¥4000/day up to ¥13,000/day for high-end road bikes.

The route is marked throughout by a blue line painted along the road — simply follow it. The one weak point is near the end when riding from Imabari, where the short final ferry to Onomichi is not clearly signed. You can also have luggage forwarded between the ends of the route through the bike rental locations; this works best when starting from Onomichi. On weekends, rent your bike before 10:00 if starting at Onomichi.

Riding from Onomichi to Imabari, the recommended main-route distances run roughly: Mukaishima (9.2 km), bridge (3.2 km), Innoshima (9.3 km), bridge (3.2 km), Ikuchijima (11.8 km, or 5.7 km if arriving at Setoda port), bridge (4.2 km), Ōmishima (6 km), bridge (1.2 km), Hakatajima (1.9 km), bridge (3 km), Ōshima (11.4 km), bridge (6.4 km), then Imabari.

• Innoshima — Features the pirate-history Suigun Castle, recalling the Murakami naval clans of the Inland Sea.
• Ikuchijima / Setoda — Site of the colourful Kosan-ji temple and the Hirayama Ikuo museum, about 4 km along the main route.
• Ōmishima — Home of the ancient Oyamazumi Jinja shrine; visiting its Treasure Hall and the Ōmishima Museum requires a round-trip detour off the main route (about 15 km total).

The route is best enjoyed over two days, which leaves time for side trips; a single fast day leaves little room for anything but pedalling. A popular one-day option is to take a ferry from Onomichi to Setoda, bypassing the two most rural islands, then ride the rest. Ferries leave Onomichi roughly hourly from 07:20, with the trip to Setoda taking about 40 minutes; tickets are sold in the ferry terminal behind the Green Hill Hotel. An excellent English-language brochure, available at bike depots and online, gives side-trip directions, rest stops, alternate (more strenuous) routes and food locations.

Food along the route reflects its citrus-growing islands and small ports. Setoda is the place for lemon treats. Hakatajima has small eateries and a Lawson convenience store off the main road; Ōmishima has a roadside station popular with cyclists on the Imabari side of the Tatara Bridge; Innoshima has eateries and shops if you exit into town. If cycling straight through in one day without side trips, check the map in advance — there are stretches with few amenities.

Citrus drinks — lemon and orange juices and sodas from the islands' groves — are a natural local choice, and Setoda's shops sell lemon-flavoured products to enjoy en route. Tap water in Japan is safe to drink; carry water as amenities are sparse in places.

Reserving accommodation along the route is harder than usual in Japan, as English-language booking sites list relatively few options; help from a Japanese speaker able to book by phone, fax or Japanese websites opens up many more.

• Mid-range: Tatara on Ōmishima is a good place to overnight if splitting the ride over two days, especially before or after the Oyamazumi shrine side trip.
• Upscale / heritage: Hotel Cycle in Onomichi, a cyclist-focused hotel in a renovated seafront warehouse, is a popular start/finish base.

In the commercial street of Setoda on Ikuchijima, lemon appears in every conceivable form — cakes, salads, bottled sauces — making lemon products the classic souvenir of the route. Citrus groves line much of the way. Pricing in Japanese shops is fixed; bargaining is not customary.

• Onomichi (mainland trailhead) — Hillside temple town with two scenic walking routes.
• Imabari (Shikoku trailhead) — Port city and gateway to Ehime.
• Matsuyama (south of Imabari, in Ehime) — Castle city and the historic Dōgo Onsen.
• Akinada Tobishima Kaido — A much quieter island route along another set of Inland Sea islands.
• Hiroshima (west of Onomichi) — Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima.