Fukuyama

Fukuyama (福山) is a mid-sized castle city on the coast of Hiroshima Prefecture, straddling the border between Hiroshima and Okayama prefectures along the Sanyo Shinkansen corridor. With a population of around 460,000, it is the second-largest city in Hiroshima Prefecture and serves as a major regional transport hub. The city is perhaps best known for its reconstructed castle, the historic port town of Tomonoura on the Seto Inland Sea, and the Matsunaga district — Japan's largest producer of traditional wooden geta sandals.

Fukuyama's modern character is shaped by its industrial base (petrochemicals, textiles, and steel) combined with a well-preserved historical core. The city was extensively damaged during WWII bombing in 1945, but the castle and several key landmarks have been carefully rebuilt. Its position on the Sanyo Shinkansen line — roughly equidistant between Hiroshima and Okayama — makes it a convenient base for exploring both the Inland Sea coastline and the Chugoku mountain interior.

The climate is mild and relatively dry compared to much of Japan, typical of the Seto Inland Sea coast. Summers (July–August) are hot and humid at 30–34°C; winters (December–February) are cool at 2–10°C with little snow. Spring (late March–April) and autumn (October–November) are the most pleasant seasons for sightseeing. Tomonoura's coastal scenery is particularly beautiful in spring with cherry blossoms framing the harbour.

By Plane

The nearest major airport is Hiroshima Airport (HIJ), located about 50 km northeast of Fukuyama in Mihara. From the airport, an express bus reaches Fukuyama Station in approximately 1 hour 10 min (¥1,540). Hiroshima Airport handles domestic flights to Tokyo (Haneda), Osaka (Itami/Kansai), Sapporo, Okinawa, and Sendai, plus limited international services to Seoul, Taipei, Shanghai, and Singapore.

By Train

Fukuyama Station is a major stop on the Sanyo Shinkansen. The Hikari reaches Hiroshima in approximately 25 min (¥4,800), Okayama in 50 min via the Sunliner (¥970, covered by JR Pass), and Osaka in about 1 hour (¥7,850). One-seat Nozomi rides depart hourly from Kyoto (80 min, ¥8,700), Nagoya (2 hours, ¥12,200), and Tokyo (3 hours 45 min, ¥17,200).

Note: The Nozomi cannot be used with the Japan Rail Pass. JR Pass holders coming from Tokyo, Nagoya, or Kyoto must transfer to a Hikari or Kodama en route. Two early-morning Hikari trains from Nagoya and Kyoto offer one-seat rides to Fukuyama.

By Car / Road

From Hiroshima, take the Sanyo Expressway westbound — approximately 80 km, 1–1.5 hours depending on traffic. From Okayama, it is about 60 km east (50 min–1 hour). The city is well-connected by expressway, and rental cars are useful for reaching Tomonoura and the rural areas along the Inland Sea coast.

Bus services: From Tokyo, the nightly Etoile Seto bus departs Shinjuku Station (9 hours 15 min, ¥10,500 one-way). Keihan Kyoto Kotsu runs three round-trips from Kyoto Station (4 hours, ¥4,100). Kintetsu Bus operates seven round-trips from Osaka's Umeda and Namba stations (3.5 hours from Umeda, ¥3,770). From Hiroshima, Rose Liner buses run 2–3 times per hour from Hiroshima Bus Center (1 hour 40 min, ¥2,300).

Fukuyama Station is the city's transport hub. The castle and central shopping district are directly adjacent to the station — a 5-minute walk. For Tomonoura and Sensui-jima, take a Tomotetsu Bus from the station's south exit (30 min, approximately ¥540).

Within central Fukuyama, walking is perfectly feasible for the castle area and nearby sights. Local buses connect the station to outlying districts like Matsunaga (geta-making area, about 20 min by train or bus). Taxis from the station cost around ¥600–800 for short trips within the city centre. There is no metro system. Rental cars are recommended if you plan to explore multiple Inland Sea towns on the same day.

Historic Sites & Temples

• Fukuyama Castle (福山城) — Visible directly from the station exit. Originally built in 1619 by Mizuno Katsunari, a cousin of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the castle was destroyed in the 1945 bombings and reconstructed in 1966. The keep houses a small museum of local history (entry ¥200). The grounds are free to enter and popular during cherry blossom season. Open 09:00–17:00.
• Myōō-in Temple (明王院) — A Shingon Buddhist temple in central Fukuyama with a five-storey pagoda designated as a National Treasure — the only one in Hiroshima Prefecture. The pagoda dates to 1348. Free grounds access; the pagoda interior is open on select days.
• Bingo Kokubunji Temple (備後国分寺) — The provincial temple of the ancient Bingo Province, founded in the 8th century by imperial decree. The main hall and pagoda are important cultural properties. A quiet, atmospheric temple complex in the eastern part of the city.

Museums

• Human Rights and Peace Museum (福山市人権平和資料館) — Explores the city's wartime experience and human rights issues. Free admission. Closed Mondays.
• Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History — Covers the broader history of the Bingo region from ancient times through the Edo period. Located near the castle.

Coastal & Island

• Tomonoura (鞆の浦) — An ancient port town on the Seto Inland Sea, 30 minutes south of Fukuyama Station by bus. Famous for its scenic harbour, traditional architecture, and homeishu — a sweet herbal liqueur brewed here for over a thousand years. Four distilleries offer free tastings. The town's red sea bream fishing display each May is a highlight. Scenes from the Studio Ghibli film Ponyo were inspired by this town.

• Sensui-jima (仙酔島) — A small island reachable by a 5-minute ferry from Tomonoura (¥240 return). Features two Japanese-style onsen hotels, a campground, a refurbished coastal stone walkway (20–30 min stroll), and a beach with a seaside foot bath (a few hundred yen). Light hiking trails offer half-day walks with Inland Sea views. Bring snacks if not staying at the hotels.

• Walk the Tomonoura harbour promenade — Explore the preserved Edo-period townscape, visit the Joyato lighthouse, and browse the small museums and shops lining the waterfront. Allow 2–3 hours.

• Visit geta workshops in Matsunaga — Tour the Matsunaga district's artisan workshops where around 60% of all geta sold in Japan are made. At GETAKOBO, you can watch craftsmen assemble custom geta and purchase a pair as a unique souvenir (from ¥3,000). Less than 10 minutes' walk southeast of JR Matsunaga Station.

• Island hopping in the Seto Inland Sea — Use Fukuyama as a base for visiting nearby islands. The Shimanami Kaido cycling route begins at Onomichi (30 min east by train) and crosses six islands to Shikoku.

• Climb Mt. Atago for castle views — A short walk uphill from the castle provides panoramic views over the city and Inland Sea. Best at sunset.

• Seasonal festivals — The Fukuyama Rose Festival in May celebrates the city's identity as the "City of Roses," with over 4,000 rose bushes blooming across public parks.

Fukuyama's food culture is rooted in Seto Inland Sea seafood and Hiroshima Prefecture's broader culinary traditions. Local specialties include omusubi (rice balls with seasonal fish), oysters (Hiroshima's signature, available November–March), and Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (layered with noodles, cabbage, and pork).

• Yakitori Tsubasa (焼き鳥 つばさ) — Budget. Popular local yakitori joint near the station. Skewers from ¥120; a full set meal around ¥800–1,200. Open evenings 17:00–23:00.
• Uoshin (魚信) — Mid-range. Seto Inland Sea seafood restaurant offering sashimi platters, grilled fish, and seasonal oyster sets (November–March). Lunch sets from ¥1,200; dinner courses from ¥2,500.
• Okonomiyaki Miyako (お好み焼き都) — Budget to mid. Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki from ¥850. Near the station's south exit. Open 11:00–21:00.
• Tomonoura waterfront cafés — Mid. Two harbour-side cafés near the Tomonoura lighthouse serve light meals, homeishu cocktails, and coffee with stunning harbour views. Lunch from ¥1,000.
• Vegetarian options are limited; ask for vegetable okonomiyaki or tofu-based dishes. Halal and gluten-free dining require advance inquiry.

The signature drink of the Fukuyama–Tomonoura area is homeishu (保命酒) — literally "Keep Life Liquor." This sweet herbal liqueur, made from rice and 13 medicinal herbs, has been brewed in the Tomo area for over a millennium. Four distilleries in Tomonoura offer free tastings; bottles make an excellent souvenir.

Near Fukuyama Station, several izakaya clusters (particularly in the station's north exit yokocho alley area) serve local Hiroshima sake and shōchū. Craft beer fans can find local brews at the Fukuyama Beer Hall in the shopping arcade. Tap water throughout Fukuyama is safe to drink.

• Budget: Fukuyama Grand Hotel — Simple business hotel a 3-minute walk from the station. Rooms from ¥4,500/night for a single, ¥7,000 for a twin. Basic but clean and convenient.
• Mid-range: Oriental Hotel Fukuyama (福山オリエンタルホテル), phone +81 84-927-0888 — Well-located hotel near the castle with views of the keep from upper floors. Rooms from ¥5,500/night. A solid mid-range choice with on-site dining.
• Upscale / heritage: Bella Vista Spa & Marina Onomichi (30 min east by train) — A luxury resort on the hillside above Onomichi with infinity pool, spa, and panoramic Inland Sea views. Rooms from ¥35,000/night. For a stay in Fukuyama proper, ryokan options are limited; consider Tomonoura's Tsutsui-So traditional inn on the harbour (from ¥12,000/person including breakfast).
• Island option: Sensui-jima island hotels — Japanese-style rooms with onsen access, ferry shuttle to Tomonoura. From ¥8,000/person including meals.

Fukuyama's main shopping area is Fukuyama Tenmaya and the covered shotengai (shopping arcade) stretching east from the station. For traditional crafts, head to the Matsunaga district for handmade geta — at GETAKOBO (〒729-0104, 広島県福山市松永町4-26-33, phone +81 84-930-0102), you choose your sole size, shape, and colour, then pick from hundreds of strap styles; pairs are assembled while you watch (around ¥3,000).

In Tomonoura, pick up bottles of homeishu herbal liqueur directly from the distilleries — a unique Fukuyama-area souvenir. Local shōchū and craft sake are also available at shops near the station. Bargaining is not customary in Japan; prices are fixed.

• Onomichi (30 min east by JR train) — A hillside temple town famous for the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, literary connections, and a charming slope-side walk through 25 temples.
• Kurashiki (45 min east by train via Okayama) — Beautifully preserved Edo-period merchant quarter (Bikan Chiku) with white-walled storehouses along a willow-lined canal, plus the Ohara Museum of Art.
• Okayama (50 min east by train) — Major city with Korakuen (one of Japan's top three gardens), Okayama Castle, and a transport hub for Shikoku and the Seto Inland Sea.
• Hiroshima (25 min west by Shinkansen) — The Peace Memorial Park, A-Bomb Dome, and Miyajima Island ferry connection are unmissable.
• Mihara (30 min west by Shinkansen) — A small castle town and gateway to the islands of the western Inland Sea.
• Takehara (about 1 hour west by train/bus) — A beautifully preserved Edo-period merchant town known as "Little Kyoto of Aki," with sake breweries and salt production heritage.