Ozu

Ozu (大洲) is a small castle town in Ehime Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku, set among hills along the meandering Hiji River southwest of Matsuyama. Sometimes nicknamed "Little Kyoto of Iyo" for its old streets and riverside setting, Ozu prospered as a castle town in the feudal era, and its compact historic core still carries that atmosphere — restored samurai- and merchant-era buildings, garden villas and a reconstructed castle keep overlooking the water.

The town's centrepiece is Ozu Castle, faithfully rebuilt in wood in the early 2000s using traditional methods, one of the few modern castle reconstructions to forgo concrete. Along the river, the elegant Garyu Sanso villa is widely regarded as one of the finest traditional residences in the region. Ozu is also known for cormorant fishing (ukai), the centuries-old summer practice of using trained cormorants to catch sweetfish by lantern-light from wooden boats.

Ozu is best enjoyed as a leisurely half-day or overnight stop, walked at a slow pace. Shikoku's climate here is mild and temperate, with warm, humid summers, cool winters with little snow, and a rainy spell in early summer. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant times to visit; summer evenings are the season for cormorant fishing.

Note: There is more than one place called Ozu in Japan — this guide covers Ozu in Ehime Prefecture, not the similarly named town in Kumamoto Prefecture.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Matsuyama Airport (IATA: MYJ), serving Ehime's capital with domestic flights from Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka and Okinawa. From the airport, transfer into Matsuyama and continue by train to Ozu.

By Train

Ozu is on the JR Yosan Line, which links Matsuyama and Uwajima via Uchiko and Ozu, so direct trains run from those cities. The town's main station is Iyo-Ozu Station.

By Car / Road

Ozu lies on the road and expressway corridor through southwestern Ehime between Matsuyama and Uwajima, making it an easy stop by car. Buses also serve the town along this route.

Ozu's historic district, castle and riverside sights are clustered closely enough to explore on foot, though some walking between the station and the old town is involved. There is no metro or tram. Local buses and taxis cover longer distances. Japan has no autorickshaws or tuk-tuks, and tourist scams are essentially non-existent.

• Ozu Castle (大洲城, Ozu-jō) — A four-storey wooden keep faithfully reconstructed in 2004 using traditional joinery, standing above the Hiji River; the interior shows castle history and construction techniques.

• Garyu Sanso (臥龍山荘) — An exquisite traditional villa and garden on a bluff above the river, prized for its refined craftsmanship and one of Ozu's signature sights.

• Ozu historic district (Ohanahan-dori) — A preserved old street of merchant and townhouse architecture, evoking the feel of the castle town in its prime.

• Pokopen Yokocho — A nostalgic recreation of a Showa-era alley with old shops and memorabilia.

• Watch cormorant fishing (ukai) — On summer evenings, observe the traditional lantern-lit fishing for sweetfish on the Hiji River from a viewing boat.

• Stroll the castle town — Wander the historic streets and riverbank, taking in samurai-era residences and garden villas.

• Stay in a restored heritage building — Ozu has pioneered a "town as hotel" model, with rooms set inside renovated historic houses scattered through the old quarter.

• Take a river cruise — Boat trips along the Hiji River offer a relaxed view of the town and its green surroundings.

Ozu's dining centres on small restaurants and cafes in and around the old town. Local cooking draws on the Hiji River — sweetfish (ayu) is a regional speciality, often grilled with salt — alongside Ehime citrus and mountain vegetables.

Vegetarians will find rice, tofu and vegetable dishes, though Japanese stocks often use seafood; halal and gluten-free options are very limited in a town this size and best arranged ahead.

Local izakaya and cafes serve regional Ehime sake and citrus-based soft drinks such as mikan juice. Cormorant-fishing viewing boats may also offer food and drink during the summer season. Tap water throughout Japan is safe to drink.

• Budget: Business hotels and guesthouses near Iyo-Ozu Station offer simple rooms at modest rates.
• Mid-range: Mid-sized hotels and inns operate in and around the town.
• Upscale / heritage: Ozu is notable for its NIPPONIA-style heritage stays, with guest rooms set inside renovated historic houses across the old quarter — a distinctive way to sleep within the castle town itself.

Ozu's historic district shops sell local crafts, washi paper goods and Ehime citrus products, as the prefecture is Japan's mandarin (mikan) heartland. River-fish products and regional sweets also make characteristic souvenirs. Prices are fixed throughout Japan and bargaining is not customary.

• Uchiko (about 15 min by train) — A preserved Edo-era town famous for its yellow-walled wax-merchant houses.
• Matsuyama (under 1 hr by train) — Ehime's capital, with a hilltop castle and Dogo Onsen.
• Uwajima (about 1 hr by limited express) — A laid-back coastal town with an original castle and bull sumo.
• Yawatahama — A west-coast port town with ferry links across the Bungo Channel to Kyushu.
• Seiyo — A rural municipality of valleys and karst scenery neighbouring Ozu.
• Ikata — A scenic peninsula town stretching out along the narrow Sadamisaki cape.